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Question concerning benchwork

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Question concerning benchwork
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 8, 2004 12:11 AM
I recently bought the lumber I will need for the benchwork for my new lay-out and have it in my garage for the time being. A friend told me that it would be a good idea to let the lumber sit inside the room where I plan to build the lay-out for at least a week before I even think of begining to build it. He told me that since the lumberyard I bought the wood at does not keep their lumber stock in a climate controlled atmosphere (inside), that if I start cutting and assembling it right away the wood will swell or contract until it reaches and remains at the controlled temp of the room it will be built in and I will have a mess with boards not lining up properly, boards bowing, ect. Is this true and if so, is there a way to speed up this process of the lumber "setting' as he called it, to the temp it will be set up in?
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Conemaugh Division
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Posted by Pennsy58 on Monday, November 8, 2004 1:46 AM
Absent having a drying kiln for your lumber, allowing it to sit indoors where you intend to use it is the only way I know of. For benchwork construction this is not a big concern though. If you intend to build furniture then it is.
I would recommend letting it sit for 3-5 days in the room. If you cant wait, then use a few extra screws when assembling the frames etc to help prevent warping in excess.
  • Member since
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  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 8, 2004 2:41 AM
Hi, Something my Dad taught me a LONG time ago, and that has worked well for me and several people I know is to apply a sealer to the wood as soon as you are done building. My husband and I use a clear 'acrylic varathane' on our benchwork. It is colorless, has low oder, and cleans up with water. Sealing the wood makes it very stable with seasonal humidity and temperature changes. We also seal the sub-roadbed. One of our friends is building a HUGE layout in G gauge, 3 foot....patterened after the Rio Grande narrow gauge Colorado line. This scale is usually reserved for outdoor layouts, but his is indoors, being built in a climate controlled building constructed just for the purpose. Were takling about 110-120 feet by 50 or so inside!! Every inch of the benchwork AND the custom cut homasote sub-roadbed is being sealed as it is built.. I would also let the wood settle for a full week in the room it will be installed into. 3 or 4 days is good, 3 or 4 more is better. After that your just loosing time as the majority of adjustment will have occured.....ASSUMING you bought Kiln Dried [ KD ] lumber. If you bought green wood it can take a year to dry.

Good Luck!
Jennifer
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 8, 2004 6:12 AM
Build the bench work and don't worry about it! I agree with jennifer RR, a sealer is a good idea, also. The bench work will dry-out some in your house. However the amount of shrinkage is likely small.
  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Northern Indiana
  • 1,000 posts
Posted by PennsyHoosier on Monday, November 8, 2004 7:13 AM
I do woodworking in addition to model railroading ([:-^]). I suggest you take the 4-5 days to let the wood sit in the room so it can acclimate. It will be worth the brief wait to avoid potential problems.
Lawrence, The Pennsy Hoosier
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Monday, November 8, 2004 9:31 PM
There are two schools of thought pertaining to this issue. Some carpenters will cut and secure the lumber ASAP allowing the entire frame to aclimate as one piece. Others, like myself, will place the stock in the general work area to aclimate as mentioned above. To avoid excessive twisting and bowing, stack the lumber tightly on 2x4(stickers) assuming it is on a concrete basement floor. Any 1xs that are going to bow ,will, regardless- those pieces can be cut and used elsewhere. I practice this method constantly in my profession. Interior trim boards and moldings are best left indoors prior to installation. I realize that you are not building cabinetry or stairs. but every bit can help with the quality of wood declining these days. One thing you did not say , was this wood actually sitting outdoors uncovered and what type of wood did you buy (soft pine, hard pine, I hope not yellow pine: and grade , or wether KD or S-dry)
Remember drill then screw.

Good Luck,
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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