Login
or
Register
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Home
»
Model Railroader
»
Forums
»
General Discussion (Model Railroader)
»
Question concerning benchwork
Question concerning benchwork
1053 views
5 replies
Order Ascending
Order Descending
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Question concerning benchwork
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, November 8, 2004 12:11 AM
I recently bought the lumber I will need for the benchwork for my new lay-out and have it in my garage for the time being. A friend told me that it would be a good idea to let the lumber sit inside the room where I plan to build the lay-out for at least a week before I even think of begining to build it. He told me that since the lumberyard I bought the wood at does not keep their lumber stock in a climate controlled atmosphere (inside), that if I start cutting and assembling it right away the wood will swell or contract until it reaches and remains at the controlled temp of the room it will be built in and I will have a mess with boards not lining up properly, boards bowing, ect. Is this true and if so, is there a way to speed up this process of the lumber "setting' as he called it, to the temp it will be set up in?
Reply
Edit
Pennsy58
Member since
August 2003
From: Conemaugh Division
389 posts
Posted by
Pennsy58
on Monday, November 8, 2004 1:46 AM
Absent having a drying kiln for your lumber, allowing it to sit indoors where you intend to use it is the only way I know of. For benchwork construction this is not a big concern though. If you intend to build furniture then it is.
I would recommend letting it sit for 3-5 days in the room. If you cant wait, then use a few extra screws when assembling the frames etc to help prevent warping in excess.
Reply
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, November 8, 2004 2:41 AM
Hi, Something my Dad taught me a LONG time ago, and that has worked well for me and several people I know is to apply a sealer to the wood as soon as you are done building. My husband and I use a clear 'acrylic varathane' on our benchwork. It is colorless, has low oder, and cleans up with water. Sealing the wood makes it very stable with seasonal humidity and temperature changes. We also seal the sub-roadbed. One of our friends is building a HUGE layout in G gauge, 3 foot....patterened after the Rio Grande narrow gauge Colorado line. This scale is usually reserved for outdoor layouts, but his is indoors, being built in a climate controlled building constructed just for the purpose. Were takling about 110-120 feet by 50 or so inside!! Every inch of the benchwork AND the custom cut homasote sub-roadbed is being sealed as it is built.. I would also let the wood settle for a full week in the room it will be installed into. 3 or 4 days is good, 3 or 4 more is better. After that your just loosing time as the majority of adjustment will have occured.....ASSUMING you bought Kiln Dried [ KD ] lumber. If you bought green wood it can take a year to dry.
Good Luck!
Jennifer
Reply
Edit
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, November 8, 2004 6:12 AM
Build the bench work and don't worry about it! I agree with jennifer RR, a sealer is a good idea, also. The bench work will dry-out some in your house. However the amount of shrinkage is likely small.
Reply
Edit
PennsyHoosier
Member since
October 2004
From: Northern Indiana
1,000 posts
Posted by
PennsyHoosier
on Monday, November 8, 2004 7:13 AM
I do woodworking in addition to model railroading ([:-^]). I suggest you take the 4-5 days to let the wood sit in the room so it can acclimate. It will be worth the brief wait to avoid potential problems.
Lawrence, The Pennsy Hoosier
Reply
bogp40
Member since
July 2004
From: Weymouth, Ma.
5,199 posts
Posted by
bogp40
on Monday, November 8, 2004 9:31 PM
There are two schools of thought pertaining to this issue. Some carpenters will cut and secure the lumber ASAP allowing the entire frame to aclimate as one piece. Others, like myself, will place the stock in the general work area to aclimate as mentioned above. To avoid excessive twisting and bowing, stack the lumber tightly on 2x4(stickers) assuming it is on a concrete basement floor. Any 1xs that are going to bow ,will, regardless- those pieces can be cut and used elsewhere. I practice this method constantly in my profession. Interior trim boards and moldings are best left indoors prior to installation. I realize that you are not building cabinetry or stairs. but every bit can help with the quality of wood declining these days. One thing you did not say , was this wood actually sitting outdoors uncovered and what type of wood did you buy (soft pine, hard pine, I hope not yellow pine: and grade , or wether KD or S-dry)
Remember drill then screw.
Good Luck,
Bob K.
Modeling B&O- Chessie
Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Reply
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Users Online
There are no community member online
Search the Community
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter
See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter
and get model railroad news in your inbox!
Sign up