LION tied them up with a rubber band, put them in a drawer. As far as I know, they are still there.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Zip lock bags.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I also store decals using the Zip-lock freezer bag, with the cardboard "sandwich" style, but, inside a plastic storage tote, in the same location as my paint is stored. (Seperate containers, but still same area.) Bonus is that, when I do have some free time for a project, both paint and decals are in the same place, just grab whichever container, and get to work. Out of light, as the tote is smallish, but is opaque, and temperature controlled, so I am not concerned.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I basically do the same as Bogp40 does, but I store them in a filing cabinet in a temp controlled environment. I used a lot of dry-transfer letters/numbers from Wilson Jones and it's best to keep the weight off of them. Stored on edge help's a lot. As a matter of fact, I just renumbered six Con Cor HO Trailers with Gothic 1/16 Black numbers from the Wilson Jones bunch that I got twenty yrs. ago. All those Trailers yrs ago came in three packs, unfortunately, all with the same number. Just like the containers sold today....all the same number....but their a pita to do. Too small and too many on one can.
Take Care!
Frank
BTW: I don't change the whole number...usually the last one or two. Most lettering used on transportation equipment, was either Roman or Gothic and Helvetica numerals.
I store my decal sets in a zip-lock freezer bag between 2 pieces of cardstock (cereal box,etc), these are kept flat between stack of mags/ books on the side of my workbench Some of the very old Chanp, herald King will most likely need a clear coat if ever used. So far, I haven't had issue w/ Microscale even some over 10 years old.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
OK, so I am finally getting off my butt and getting some projects done. Have broughtseveral decal sets over the past year (generally Microscale), and I am finally using them. Of course, often 1/2 a sheet or more of usable decals remain after detailing a car - for example, stuff like reporting marks, dimensional detail etc that could be useful in a future project perhaps 5 years down the road. Not to mention, in addition, plenty of generic decals (such as simple stripes, warning labels, conspicuity reflection "tape" and the like) which can always find use in future projects.The question is more of a survey (as most thread on this forum usually are) - how do you store the usable remnants of decals so that when you find a use for them years later they don't explode into tiny fragments upon soaking, or conversely refuse to come off the backing sheet - I want them to work.
My decals at a minimum right now are kept out of sunlight (any light really), but since they are stored in a office off my living area, not necessarily in a cool dry place (it can get humid).I ask because some of my older sets of decals (perhaps a decade old) did the falling apart gag (I was testing beforehand to decide what was worth keeping, so no gnashing of teeth, just a general "Ah, bummer" from me), so clearly just putting them in an envelope out of light wasn't working long-term.
Bonus question - what about Dry Transfer storage? These seem to have a more limited life span after opening their storage package; basically after several years they won't transfer cleanly or will fragment, microwave trick or not.