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Atlas switch inprovement

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Atlas switch inprovement
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 30, 2004 8:02 PM
I am using Atlas super t.o. code 83 switches. I have noticed
when rolling cars thru switch [ either direction] cars rise or lower at frog. [flange way and track gauge ok]. Ihave filed the
top of the frog flatter and this seems to help. Have any of you Atlas users noticed this and how did you improve the switch for smoother operation? Thanks for your imput.
Tomas in Durango.
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Saturday, October 30, 2004 9:35 PM
Peco
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 2,455 posts
Posted by wp8thsub on Saturday, October 30, 2004 10:48 PM
The Atlas 83 turnouts often have excess plastic oozed around the frog casting. I like to use an X-acto knife with a chisel blade to chop the plastic flush with the rails. Sometimes the frog ends up sitting too high, and some attention with a flat file usually takes care of the height discrepancy. You may also find a turnout where there's some lateral misalignment between the frog and the adjacent rails. I have been able to resolve that with some thin miniature /jeweler's files (sets of which are usually pretty cheap at Home Depot/Lowe's). It's rare to see too many problems with the Atlas 83 turnouts, so one of the above is likely all you'll find, but a combination may be possible. An NMRA gauge won't necessarily detect any of these issues, but a straightedge will.

Rob Spangler

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 30, 2004 11:49 PM
To nfmisso: You received some very good advice from wp8thsub. I would also like to add my two cents worth that has really helped smooth-out my code 83, Atlas switches. After filing and sanding (600 sandpaper) the surface of the frog, my locos and cars still bumped, somewhat, on some switches. One day last month, I took the bull by the horns and disconnected the "straight" point-rail, and very gently lifted it a bit further than it wanted to go. This raised the entire point rail for the straight route. Then, I did the same to the other point rail, the "curved route." Now, they don't "bump" anymore. It solved my problem. Nickel-silver is NOT a hard metal. In fact, it's very maleable and the tensile strength is less than brass. Consequently, these very thin "point rails," that move the locos to a different track, become "slumped", so to speak, or curved downwards. This is to a very slight extent, but over time and use it can cause derailments. I think it's a shame that Atlas doesn't make a copper-zinc alloy (brass) turnout with some silver in it to help prevent corrosion. But then, we'd be paying $35.00 for a turnout instead of $11.95. Sometimes, I think it would be worth it.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 31, 2004 12:01 AM
To nfmisso: You received some very good advice from wp8thsub. I would also like to add my two cents worth that has really helped smooth-out my code 83, Atlas switches. After filing and sanding (600 sandpaper) the surface of the frog, my locos and cars still bumped, somewhat, on some switches. One day last month, I took the bull by the horns and disconnected the "straight" point-rail, and very gently lifted it a bit further than it wanted to go. This raised the entire point rail for the straight route. Then, I did the same to the other point rail, the "curved route." Now, they don't "bump" anymore. It solved my problem. Nickel-silver is NOT a hard metal. In fact, it's very maleable and the tensile strength is less than brass. Consequently, these very thin "point rails," that move the locos to a different track, become "slumped", so to speak, or curved downwards. This is to a very slight extent, but over time and use it can cause derailments. I think it's a shame that Atlas doesn't make a copper-zinc alloy (brass) turnout with some silver in it to help prevent corrosion. But then, we'd be paying $35.00 for a turnout instead of $11.95. Sometimes, I think it would be worth it.
  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: City of Québec,Canada
  • 1,258 posts
Posted by Jacktal on Sunday, October 31, 2004 9:07 AM
I model "N" scale and I've found that the only real improvement that can be done to an Atlas turnout is throwing it away and have Peco's installed instead.
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • 88 posts
Posted by wpsteve on Sunday, October 31, 2004 10:55 AM
One thing I hve found with the Atlas switches is you need to put jumpers across from the outside rail to the diverging rail ( that goes to frog) The connection at the piviot point does not hold up very well.. This can be fixed later but I have found it easier to just turn the switch over and solder the jumpers before I install the turnout...
I have also had to file the frog down on some.... Still a nice turnout for the money.. I also like the Pecos. Use them in the yards because of the throw, it works great !
WP Steve web site http://members.bigvalley.net/norma

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