Air brush, what to look for.

[jwar]

Looking at buying an air brush, however its like buying bread at the super market, many types.

Not sure of brand but thinking a decent and dependable single stage, easy to clean and parts availability.

Is internal or external mix best, I have no clue.

Will use it (or attempt ) to paint a few engines, weathering.

If ya got a moment or two let me know why you like or dislike yours.

Thanks ...John

[Big_Boy_4005]

As strange as this may sound, I like "cheap white bread" best. Translated, the least expensive external mix brush I can find. Most of the work that I do with an airbrush is masked off anyway. Model railroaders don't do shading or "artistic" work, we apply paint in solid colors, and want full coverage.

Personally, I'm happy to use a spray can, as long as I can get the color I want . When I can't get the right color, that's when the airbrush comes out. I like external mix because they are easier to clean and not as fussy.

If you need to do fine work like weathering, then make a shield out of a 3x5 card. Cut a hole in the card the desired shape, smaller than the area you want to paint. Hold the card between the airbrush and your work. As you move the card farther way from the model the spray will be lighter and the patern wider. It takes a little practice.[:)]

[mondotrains]

Hi John,
I hear what you're saying...that you will "paint a few engines and do some weathering" with an air brush. I said the same thing however, I got some great advice from a friend who suggested I buy a good airbrush and compressor because once you start using them, you'll find many, many other uses. For instance, I got tired using the same old brick-colored spray paint from a can to paint my brick buildings. Now, I mix acrylic paints to get different shades of brick and spray them on using the airbrush. Once you get used to using the airbrush, you'll find so many other uses for it that you would'nt have thought of. Since the airbrush does take a few minutes to clean up, I save projects and spray a whole bunch of things during one "session".

I would advise that you buy an internal mix brush because it will produce better results. I've been told that the external mix brushes use bottles that can get in the way. I have a Badger which I like because it has a small cup, which doesn't get in the way, and it is a dual-action brush. Single action brushes must be adjusted to a particular spray width and that pattern is all you get until you adjust it again. If you want to go from a thin to wider spray pattern, you have to stop and adjust it. When you want to go back to a thinner spray, again, you'll have to stop to adjust it. The dual-action allows you to adjust the spray pattern and the amount of spray with a single button. When a guy I know told me to buy a single-action brush because he couldn't figure out how to use the dual-action brush.....well that was when I saw a challenge. In fact, after a couple of hours of practice on spare parts, engine shells and scrap plastic, I mastered the technique of adjusting the spray pattern while painting.

I have found that the Badge is a great brush. The only parts that will need replacing are the nozzle and needle which cost about $9.00. After a year of using my brush, I haven't had to replace anything.

John, if you would like to discuss in further detail, I'd be glad to have you call me. Just email me on this forum and I'll reply with my phone number. I can give you some great tips on paints to use and thinners etc.

Mondo

[Anonymous]

I have a Passche VL model, it is good for both full coverage spraying and doing detail, weathering, and touchup work. They're a little expensive, though, unless you found a deal on one like I did. I'd suggest that Big_Boy gave the best advice so far as to go out and buy a cheaper airbrush first, for one thing it might be easier for you to learn how to airbrush if you have a simpler airbrush in the first place.

The Passche airbrush I have is both dual-action and internal mix, which I guess someone should explain:

Internal mix:
Paint and air get mixed (atomized) inside the airbrush.

External mix:
Paint gets atomized with air outside the airbrush.

Dual Action:
Airbrush's trigger controls both the amount of paint and air going through the airbrush.
Single action airbrushes only control the amount of air (I think); and control paint flow with something else.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Actually Christopher, I believe that the dual action is a little different from how you described it. The first action refers to paint and air volume when you press the trigger, common to all airbrushes. The second action is spray patern size, usually controlled by moving the trigger back and forth. This moves the needle inside, and changes the coverage area. On a single action brush you make that adjustment manually.

Dual action only complicates matters, with more moving parts. External mix has the drawback of being prone to spitting, but when you have your paint properly thinned and everything adjusted, they work just fine. For clean up, there's no contest.

[Anonymous]

jwar,

A single action should do well for most of your airbrushing projects, if you find that you need more capability, then you can always move up to a more sophisticated double action, after a while.

I myself have a Badger 200 single action internal mix, and I really like it. Its not as ergonomic as the Aztek brush I used to have, but the quality is better. As far as ease of cleaning, this one is actually quite easy. A lot of people like the Paasche models as well. I chose the Badger because I could get it ,and any parts I needed for it, locally. vs. having to order them.

Also, don't bother with those silly propellant cars, their a waste of money, and really aren't very good. If you already have a compressor, the only things you'll need is a regulator, a moisture trap and some fittings. Otherwise, I wouldn't recomend those tiny compressors marketing just for airbrush use, you can get a small 2-gallon compressor from Wal-Mart, or Tractor Supply for about $100, plus fittings, and it'll be far more useful.

Alvie.

[Anonymous]

I started with the simple Badger single action external mix brush (I think it's the 250, but could be wrong - it's the cheapy one that comes on a card, not box). Started with the Propel cans, but hated them. Got a small compressor. I think it paid for itself in about six months with what was saved on the cans. I think this is the best set up to learn on. I've used it now for six years, and I think I"m finally ready to ask for a dual action brush for Christmas. Gonna keep the old one though for simple jobs.

Alvie - quick question. I've wondered about the 2 gallaon compressors that I"ve seen. Is it oilless?

[Anonymous]

dkelly,

The one I have, a Tradespro, seems to be oil-less, there are no lubricating points now anything on the side that mentions lubrication. But nothing saying it's oil-less either. I can't comment on other makes and models.

Alvie.

[jwar]

Thanks to all the above for the great tips. I had one thing wired down...its like buying bread and you great guys gave me a lot of food for thought.

I'll put it on my christmas wish list wait and see what type or shape delelops, ....on second thought i end up paying the bills anyhow...Well I better get with it and buy what I want...gads...french, whole wheat, rye, white, or perhaps a grain....I think Ill go run a few trains and head to my LHS.

[Anonymous]

An oil-less air compressor uses sealed ball bearing on the crankshft and the bottom of the piston rod. Most have a replaceable sleeve of teflon or aluminum in the cylinder
and the piston has fiber or teflon rings that will seat to each other without galling like metal to metal with no lube will do. This type of compressor is perfect for airbrushing. I have two air brushes- A Thayer & Chandler that was a hand me down and a cheap but unbelievably good Testors. They are both internal mix dual action. There is a brush made that can be set as internal or external mix but I have not been able to locate it on the internet again.

[SPFan]

I've been using the same Paasche model H single action for 35 years now. 99% of the time I am using Floquil solvent paint but it works fine with PollyS and I have sprayed automotive lacquers and urethanes with it as well. As others have pointed out most of your work is painting solid colors over relatively large surfaces. You still have to ability to reduce the pattern by adjusting the spray nozzle and air pressure for weathering. A two stage brush would offer more flexibilty but has a longer learning curve.

Pete