Wiring marker lights

[memsd]

What am I missing? Is the draw of marker lights enough to cause power problems if I utilize power fom the rails? Why does everyone use batteries?

Just curious....

[cacole]

I'm not sure what scale you're talking about, but if those marker lights are LEDs they are polarity and voltage sensitive, and using track power requires quite a bit of additional electronics in the form of a bridge rectifier, resistors, capacitors, etc. to keep a constant voltage of the correct polarity on them. I have put marker lights on the back of an HO caboose using miniature red LEDs, but the electronics to support those LEDs practically filled the caboose body, not to mention the problem of having to modify the caboose wheels and trucks so track power could be used because a normal caboose truck uses insulated wheelsets. After that experience, I began using 9 Volt batteries instead of track power for marker lights.

[memsd]

Ok. Here I thought it was just a simple matter of connecting the power leads. The idea of replacing batteries just doesn't appeal to me very well.

[Eriediamond]

memsd, cacole is correct, but I might also ad to your comment about changing batteries. If you use LED's the drainage will be very low and battery changing won't be that often. Only thing, you will need an on off switch.

[randybc2003]

I have installed lights in some of my "Cabeese" I use the 1.5v marker light system from Utah Pacific. 1.5 N scale battery, and a reed switch from CIRCUTRON. Simplicity itself. These batteries have a very long life - 40 Hrs. continuiously on. They don't "blink" going over trackange interupt, or if the train is parked on a "dead" track. Wave a magnet, and they turn on and off. Several articles in MR discuss this. Except for the mag-reed switch, no complicated electronics.
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[ksax73]

Does anybody know where one could find diagrams online for wiring marker lights?

Thanks!

[cwclark]

try this website and go to the links also http://www.mrollins.com/circuit.html here is another good sight http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CircuitIndex.html Chuck[:D]

[ckape]

Well, if you're using DCC the wiring for lights is greatly simplified. It seems to me that you could also do some simple circuits for DC, but they minimum voltage for those would probably be a bit high for some people's taste.

[Budliner]

well if you use this neet little transister LM334Z Linear Series low as 47 cents and no need for a boxcar full of expensive electronics all it needs is a resister and you got all the regulation you need and you dont need two lm317t adjustable voltage regulators with two diods that will run at least $6 check this link for all the recomended tolerances
http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/


Ken

[ksax73]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Budliner

well if you use this neet little transister LM334Z Linear Series low as 47 cents and no need for a boxcar full of expensive electronics all it needs is a resister and you got all the regulation you need and you dont need two lm317t adjustable voltage regulators with two diods that will run at least $6 check this link for all the recomended tolerances
http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/


Ken

Thanks Ken! This is great stuff!

[Budliner]

no problem I guess we wont need hundreds so looks like 65 cents still not bad http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=116349



K-

[Anonymous]

I use a single 1.5 Volt AA battery with a single pole double throw slide switch wired in series. This works fine for my Tomar marker lamps. I suggest removing the battery if your car is not going to be used for a long time for sometimes they will leak. Good luck.

[Budliner]

http://lib1.store.vip.sc5.yahoo.com/lib/webtronics/sg1m.pdf