Need advice please

[dragenrider]

I've seen one model steam loco which picked up electricity from the left hand wheels on the engine and the right wheels on the tender. This could cause the phenomenon you are talking about.

[randybc2003]

Check your local hoby shop. Atlas makes an "under-the-table" switch machine that is almost identical to the "above the table" variety.

I'm more of a steam buff, but I think your "AC4400" sounds like a large deisel. (6 wheels per truck?). Your curves could be tight for this size of loco. AVOID CHOPPING YOUR COWCATCHER/PILOT/FOOTPLATE !!!!!

Check your wiring where the control/power goes into the switch machine. I had a problem that weight/sweep pushed a stray wire accross machine terminals and caused a short. I trimed the offending strand.

I would suggest you get a copy of ATLAS' "How To Build a RR" books. Even if you don't use their plans, the construction info is very good. [^]

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for your input.

Phil - my 2-8-0 works over the plastic rail joiners, because it is powered only by the tender I guess. My diesel engines go over the plastic joiners as well. But my 2-8-8-2's don't.

Bobfarkus - I'll try staggering the plastic joints. I haven't heard of under the board switches (I'm kind of new), but it sounds very appealing. My Atlas snap switches only cause problems near curves, not on straight ways.

Carole - to connect my wires, I've been using the not-so-realistic looking track pieces with the wire connectors built in. I should redo to hide the connections like the books say. You are absolutely right that my track layout isn't up to par for the nice big AC 4400 locos. I'll have to upgrade it over time.

Thanks all!

[Anonymous]

Paul, the "grill" is properly known as the "pilot" or "fender" in some cases (not to be confused with "pilot truck"). In some circles "cow catcher" will do. I realize that its a bit late for these tips but eventually I'm sure you will be much happier with "under the board" switch macines (if possible). Not only will your pike look more realistic but you will avoid any snags from top mounted obstructions. I wouldn't set about filing down or altering any rolling stock (Locos or cars) for a problem with track work. The foundation of a good running layout MUST start with a solid roadbed and track work as flawless as you can manage. If the "clearance problem" is encountered on a curved switch ("turnout'), you may find that the radius of the curve section is too "tight" for the length (wheelbase) of your locomotive. Then you would want to go to a #6 turnout if you are using #4's. I know, doing track work isn't the most fun thing about model railroading but it is by far (in the long run) the most important. M.R. magazine (Kalmbach publishers) have great articles on getting started with track work. I'm not touting any particular books etc., but you can avoid endless aggravation later on if you adhere to the ABC's of good track and wiring principals. Hope you have many hours of as "trouble free" operation as possible. Patience is definately a virtue.

[cacole]

It sounds like your track is not powered beyond the insulated rail joiner, or the polarity is not correct. Have you checked everything with a voltmeter to confirm that there is power beyond the rail joint, and that the polarity is the same on both sides? A wire may be broken or not properly connected. How did you connect wire to your track? It must be soldered for good electrical conductivity. If you tried using the Atlas pre-soldered rail joiners, the wire is probably pulled loose from one of these. Re-check all of the wiring, voltages, and polarity.

Your turnouts are too sharp a curve, probably Atlas Snap Switches, which are no good for newer locomotives with low, wide snowplows and long frames. It sounds like your entire layout is not up to standard regarding the type of track and turnouts you are using to match the locomotive.

[Anonymous]

If both insulated rail joiners are exactly opposite, try staggering one joiner about one to one and one half inches ahead (or behind) the other. That will seperate the "point of non-conductivity."

[fec153]

What size steamer? My 0-4-0 had same problem unless I had it going fast but my 4-8-4
would keep going. Does a diesel do the same as the steamer?
Phil

[Fergmiester]

Welcome

You may have a dead joint somewhere in the line. This is not uncommon as the nickel joiners sometimes get "fouled" and will not allow the current to flow to the next rail. You will find most of us solder our joints and run power wires to the rails every several feet.

Regards
Fergie

[Anonymous]

WELCOME ABOARD. I think what you are using are the plastic spacers to intentionaly segregate/isolate track power. When you place the engine between two distant spacers and your power leads are connected to that track within those plactic connectors and power up, your loco moves, until it crosses the next pastic connector. What you have done is segregated power within. You have created what is call a block./zone
Plastic does not conduct electricity. You are interrupting the current flow. You need metal rail joiners that permit electricity to pass through.
Plastic plays a part but not in your application

I have had to file down too, because of uneven track.

[Anonymous]

Hello Modelers,

I've been working on an HO layout in my garage, and I ran into a couple of situations that I was hoping to get help with.

a) I used plastic rail joiners to separate the layout into 2 sections, but my steam engine doesn't seem to pass over the plastic rail joiners. I make sure to have power on both sections (in the same direction), but no luck. I believe this is due to the power coming from the tender and the motor being in the loco, but I still don't know what to do. Has anyone ran into this?

b) I've got 11 switches on my layout. These are the remote switches with the bulky black housing thing attached. I recently bought an AC 4400, and to my horror the grill (or whatever it's called) at the front of the engine at the very bottom bumps into the switches! I guess I'll have to file the grill down, but I was wondering if anyone else dealt with this problem.

Thanks all!
Paul