Decal Application Questions

[peahrens]

Thanks, Bear.  It occurred to me to google waterslide decals and the following Wiki item (sort & sweet) was listed.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_slide_decal

It shows the typical decal as a paper backing, a dissolvable dextrose layer of adhesive / release medium, an optional adhesive layer (for the final decal), and a final "decal" consisting of (as I interpret it) three sublayers (a clear back, any printing (water soluble or otherwise), and additional clear at the front).  Maybe the Microscales are like this.  And maybe the Testors clear paper is all but the color print layer (water soluble ink in this case added by a printer) plus the "bonding spray" to complete the decal.

I'm considering calling Microscale next week to inquire of a tech person.  I do think it would be useful to fully understand all this to be able to optimize both commercial decal applications (use of Microset vs Microsol, etc) as well as differences with the home injet decals and therefore how best to apply them successfully.  Besides, I'm curious.  

["JaBear"]

Gidday Paul, I am only in the experimental stage of decal manufacture and application using the Testors system, so don’t take anything I say as gospel.

Having followed the Testors process of printing and sealing, I left my decals to dry for 48 hours to dry. I then soaked the decals for the recommended 5 seconds and then applied them. That was when the fun started, having built a lot of mainly Airfix kit aeroplanes when much younger I was surprised to see the decals not sticking as well as I remembered. I hadn’t bought any Micro Set, but tried applying a little Micro Sol not only form the decal around some rivets but help it stick. This, as should be expected, was not 100% successful, in fact I managed to destroy a couple of decals, though heavy handed applications of Micro Sol did not help.

Having acquired some Micro Set and sticking to the instructions on the bottle, I have found things going far better, though I still need a cure for those shakes my hands seem to develop just at the critical of that final delicate positioning of the decal. I also need to learn when to stop and leave things well alone.

What I have yet to discover is if my rattle can of matte clear will have any effect to the decals. Got to get brave soon.

Just my two bobs worth.

Cheers, the Bear. 

[peahrens]

My questions are focused on whether my application steps should be different for homemade decals than for standard ones (say, Microscale).

For commercial decal application, I pretty much follow the Microscale instructions; i.e., slide on & dab excess water, add some Microset (once or twice), than apply Microsol if needed for additional settling (e.g., over rivets), then wash off residue, then coat (e.g., Dullcote).  This worked fine on some re-done passenger cars.

I've also made a few custom decals with Testors clear paper on my HP inkjet printer, and sealed them with Testors "bonding spray" to seal the ink before applying.  The instructions just say to wet them, slide them off and allow to dry overnight. 

What I'm wondering is, if I follow the Microscale steps listed above, can I create problems because the decal inks and coatings are different?  For example, should I avoid the Microset and/or Microsol steps if otherwise desired (e.g., over bricks or rivets) because they will dissolve the coating and "wet" (I don't know what its solvent is) the inks and they will then flow??

Part of the issue is I don't understand what the differences are between a commercial decal in terms of inks, sealing layers, etc, plus what happens when the typical steps are done for each.  For example, what happens to the non-ink part of a commercial decal when Microsol is applied? Does it all turn into a washable residue?  

Any clarification would be of interest, particularly on any do's and don'ts in applying Testors inkjet decals.  I'd like to use some assisting solutions to help the decals settle but don't want to ruin them by not knowing what works best.