I use thick CA similar to the way you would use any type of adhesive/glue. Thick CA is also my favorite CA to use. When parts can be assembled and glued together in place, I will use thin CA, however, I only use CA on wood parts. If I need to adjust alignment; or, may need to adjust, I will use white glue or carpenter's glue on wood parts. I use plastic cement, both the tube type and liquid for plastic parts.
I don't have much use for epoxies in the Model Railroading hobby. Not saying never, just saying I don't need to use epoxy much in this hobby.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
Over the years I have had good results keeping my glue/sealers in the freezer. I have frozen CA, Gorilla Glue, and some of the polythiosulfide base sealer/adhesives. With the glue/sealer in the large tubes allow 2-3 hours to thaw before use.
herrinchoker
A rag dipped in Acetone works pretty well for unclogging tips.
After trying many CA adhesives, I have settled on Sinbad. They make several different formulas, amd have a shelf life upwards of 3 years. A little pricey but worth it.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
To overcome a clogged tip I use a pin; but when it's become really clogged I simply 'carve it a new one' by removing the top with a box cutter, on an angle upward and away from me. Just don't squeeze the bottle as you're trimming the tip...
I've never had much satisfaction in any of the cheaper CA's out there. Like everything else - you get what you pay for.
I used to use the Loctite Super Glue Professional ....
Then it got re-branded (in Canada) to Lepages Liquid Pro ....
It stays on the shelf in my shop. The tip never clogs and I've used every bottle right down to the last drop. This is great stuff - I've even glued things that I didn't think would work, like broken handrails !
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ is made by Pacer Technology...not a gel or reg, but flows easier and is a different formula than the dollar store version, for a buck more.
Your choice....My experience.
Take Care!
Frank
Why spend the extra $$$$$ Some dollar stores sell CA by Pace in both gel and reg.
HaroldA While we are on the topic of CA, how does anyone keep the tip from clogging/solidifying? Anything I put in the tip becomes firmly glued. Also, I do believe it has a shelf life - I have had it completely solidifying in the bottle if not used on timely basis.
While we are on the topic of CA, how does anyone keep the tip from clogging/solidifying? Anything I put in the tip becomes firmly glued. Also, I do believe it has a shelf life - I have had it completely solidifying in the bottle if not used on timely basis.
HaroldA,
Like I said in my first reply...I use Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ a 0.5 oz size container. All I do is wipe the tip with a piece of paper towel, the little cap that goes over the tip snaps in place and a larger full cap goes over that and also snaps in place. I keep it upright right at my workbench desk. One container I have has only a 1/3 left in it that I use on larger area's, has not solidified in the two year's I've had it. When the tip does become clogged, I keep a straight pin handy (the little larger stronger one that a seamstress would use) and with a pair of small pliers grabbing the side of the pin, I open the hole. If you always store it up-right, gravity always seems to work for me. I have used other CA's that would harden just sitting on the shelf, even unopended one's, but have had great luck with this brand and use it exclusively on many projects. It's fantastic for ship building, one of my other vices.
HaroldAWhile we are on the topic of CA, how does anyone keep the tip from clogging/solidifying?
Wish I did. The small tips you canj get are supposed to help, because they're small and flexible. If you throw it away and replace when it gets clogged, that may help.
The best thing I've found is to use small bottles, because they get used up before it gets to be too big an issue. But that can get expensive. I usually get the 2 oz bottle, but by the time I'm halfway through it I'm getting tip clog issues.
Generally, inserting things into the tip aggravates the situation, as it oftten can catalyze the setting in the bottle.
Things that help, most are a PITA IMO, are...
Keeping the tip opening on the large size helps limit clogging
On bottles where the tip can be unscrewed, you can clean the tip from inside
Refrigeration greatly slows any reactions.
I keep my thin CA there, because I only use it for a few things. I go through the gel stuff fast enough, I only store the backup bottle there until needed. Having the backup at hand also make it easier to give up on the cruddy half-used bottle on the workbench in favor of the one in the fridge
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Refrigeration tends to extend the shelf life. My LHS keeps their CA stock in the refrigerator, and I do the same at home.
Tom
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
Looks like my next trip to HD will include a Weld Bond purchase. Thanks to all.
Richard
I'm partial to Titebond III when needing a joint I can rely on with wood.
That said, there are LOTS of non-critical joints in a typical structure. CA speeds up the construction process and generally works well. If you're having a high failure rate with gel CA on wood, try hitting it with accelerator, which only speeds things up more...
All things being equal, CA generally works just as well as the speciality wood glues for many purposes. The only thing as boring as watching paint dry is watching glue dry. The key to which to use comes down to a quick judgment call for me in most cases and in most cases things work as planned. When it doesn't, the little time spent fixing things is well-worth the waiting time avoided by using CA where it's prudent. YMMV, but don't be afraid to experiment.
Really nice Ball Park Model, Mark.
We built this O Scale ballpark entirely of laser cut wood and assembled the whole thing with Weld Bond. It was then broken down into numerous smaller pieces, loaded on a truck and driven from Ontario Canada to California and re-assembled .... not one joint failed !
I don't often use CA on wood. CA doesn't dry in the normal sense of the word. It is a strange liquid, which upon contact with certain impurities, converts from liquid to solid in a flash. One impurity which triggers the hardening is wood dust (saw dust) and fine wood fibers. Some times CA will stay liquid long enough to assembly the joint, some times it hardens seconds after it touches the wood, and before you can assemble the joint.
For wood I use either yellow carpenters glue or white (Elmer's) glue. For modeling purposes they work about the same. Carpenter's glue is more water resistant, white glue is made to wash out of children's clothes with soap and water. Both types MUST be clamped to develop decent strength. If you cannot clamp the joint, use something else. Both types give at least 10 minutes working time and need overnight to develop much strength.
For joints that don't need much strength, say window trim parts, cellulose cement (Duco) is more than adequate. Cement hardens a minute and develops full strength in 10 minutes. It does not need to be clamped.
For unclampable joints that demand real strength (say the end blocks in a wooden passenger car) epoxy is unbeatable. At least a minute of working time, enormous strength, and clamps not required.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
For a wood laser kit, you should use a glue made for wood. I don't consider CA suitable for wood. The few times I have tried it, the first application soaked into the wood but did not stick, so a second application was necesary and did not turn out well.
As others have recommeded, use Weld Bond or yellow carpenter's glue.
Mark R. I worked for a local company for a couple years building laser cut wood structures. They insisted on using Weld Bond for construction. It didn't dry hard like white / carpenters glue which was prone to breaking at the joint. Weld Bond dries clear and dries quick on wood. It can also be warmed with a heat gun and easily removed / re-aligned .... something no other glue easily does ! Mark.
I worked for a local company for a couple years building laser cut wood structures. They insisted on using Weld Bond for construction. It didn't dry hard like white / carpenters glue which was prone to breaking at the joint.
Weld Bond dries clear and dries quick on wood. It can also be warmed with a heat gun and easily removed / re-aligned .... something no other glue easily does !
Rich
Alton Junction
Richard,
I have used Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ for many years and have not had any problems at all with it...used on non-porous material and porous. Wood trestles, Mattboard to wood, wood to plastic, Pewter Models, White Metal models you name it. Gap filler for track joints and the list goes on. I like the 10 to 15 second set time and don't need a lot. Totally cures about an hour. I had glued some North Eastern wood pieces together and tried taking them apart...the bond was so strong, the wood broke apart from itself, not the bond.
Have you considered yellow carpenters glue for the wood structure? It probably would work better than CA since gluing wood is what the product is made for and you do not have to be concerned about viscosities. CA works best on non-porous surfaces, that is what it was made for.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
The thin stuff has its uses. It's best when there is a tight fitting joint, especially so when wicking the CA in would work best.
For me, the gap filling CA is my all-around one. It also has the advanatage of staying pretty much where you put it. You can get it on your fingers, but you fingers don't act like little wicks as they do with the thin stuff.
For wood, which has a porous, relatively irregular surface, gap filling typically works best. However, you could apply and allow each surface in the bond to set by itself, ssnd lightly to smooth it, then bond those two non-porous, slicker surfaces together with the thin stuff
When do I use the varous viscosities of CA? If I am assembling a laser-cut wood structure, which viscosity should I be using? As always, thank you for the patience with the novice.