I saw an interesting MOW "prototype" flat car in RailPictures Archives recently and wanted to make a similar HO scale car from one of my surplus flat cars. On the original, a fuel storage tank and a fueling hose was positioned, presumably to supply various generators that were located on the flat car and other powered equipment used in the course of MOW operations on the line. Researching online, I saw a number of possible items that I could use to duplicate the tank, as retail purchases, but my frugal nature took over when I saw a PVC pipe end cap outside in my yard, where we had rerouted some irrigation pipes after building our screen room. I immediately took off to Home Depot and found some 1/2" PVC end caps that, glued end-to-end (with PVC glue), looked just like a fuel tank!!!!!
I bought several sets, as well as some 1/2" x 1-5/8" plain spacers, and returned home. End-glued, the two caps measure out to a HO scale 16 feet, measured from the crown of each cap (they are gently curved, like a tank car end). To make a longer tank, insert a spacer between- or cut one end cap (make sure it is a straight cut) to make the tank shorter. There is some molded lettering on each cap end (Charlotte Pipe brand) that can be removed with an Exacto chisel blade, then sanded smooth. I also used a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to gently rough the side walls for better painting "tooth".
I took a 3/4" x 3" piece of .010" white styrene and rolled it inside one end cap, then used Plastruct Bondene to glue it into a circular insert- this is then placed 1/2 way into each piece, for alignment and stability. I am using standard PVC cement applied very carefully with a toothpick. You only get one shot with PVC cement (hence, the alignment piece inside!). I didn't need to use PVC cleaner, as I wiped the inside and outsides of the two cap pieces with thinner, then washed them with dish detergent to remove manufacturing "chemicals" which might hinder the glue joint.
Drilling into the assembled tank will then be done to insert spare parts box sprues to represent any welded pipe outlets (one on top for vapor relief; one for the fill pipe and another at one end on the bottom for the fuel outlet hose attachment).
These PVC pieces are very inexpensive (I spent less than $ 2.50 for 4 end caps and two straight spacers), and a great alternative to spending $ for product and shipping charges.
Want a bigger diameter tank- same concept, only go with 3/4" or 1" diameter pieces!
Hope this helps other hands-on modelers!
Cedarwoodron
Pictures? Link to Railpictures photo?
OP: Not very good with links and picture posting here at MR, but watch for my results in the photo galleries in a few weeks!
On the other hand, if the process of posting images was self-contained within this forum, as it is on some other forums, I would have posted images immediately with my original post, but...
PVC fittings work pretty well for larger tanks. The two bigger ones in this pic were made from two 4" caps, stacked on top of each other with some glue to hold 'em together. Then I wrapped them with .010" styrene to disguise the joint between the two. OI used Plastruct parts to make the curving stairways.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Cedarwoodron:
Great idea! I like the price.
Mike L:
Very well done tanks! Could've fooled me!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi
Here is another version of PVC tanks. I'm all for cheep.
Have a good day.
Lee
Also, can anyone tell me why my pictures are squashed in widith untill you click on it?
I just copy and paste from Photobucket.
mlehman PVC fittings work pretty well for larger tanks. The two bigger ones in this pic were made from two 4" caps, stacked on top of each other with some glue to hold 'em together. Then I wrapped them with .010" styrene to disguise the joint between the two. OI used Plastruct parts to make the curving stairways.
Rich
Alton Junction
Not sure about the aspect ratio problems you are having, Yankee. Perhaps they look correct on your PC because it is set to a non standard ratio.
Anyways, I'd like to ante up regarding PVC fittings, I use them to make Harvestore silos.
See my models by clicking on the link below
Blue Tombstone Gallery
yankee flyercan anyone tell me why my pictures are squashed in widith untill you click on it?
It is another strange thing in the 'improved' forum software. I have had the same problem. The program seems expext a picture to have a certain ratio of length and width, and when a picture is too wide things get squished.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
richhotrainMike, great work, very nice photo. YesYes Rich
Rich,
Thanks. That shot is pretty minimalist, but it sure works. I even have the ballast, ground, etc in pretty much the right place on this one. What looks like mountains behind the refinery is a curving piece of hardboard used as an "inside the layout" viewbreak with that simple background painted on it. Not only works great for background of many shots on my central penisula, but also protects against elbows.
Here's a long shot where it's more obvious in the background with this camera angle.
And a shot from the other end of the curve.
Still trying to find a good closeup for the OP's purposes.
OK, better pics of these tanks. One by itself.
For comparison purposes, the closer, smaller tank was built from components in the Plastruct Refinery kit. That's also where I got the components for ths curving stairways on the bigger tanks, as well as most of the other refinery vessels, piping, etc, except for the part of the loading rack, its piping, and the fence is Walthers. All the Plastruct parts are available seperately from the Refinery Kit.
G Paine yankee flyer can anyone tell me why my pictures are squashed in widith untill you click on it? It is another strange thing in the 'improved' forum software. I have had the same problem. The program seems expext a picture to have a certain ratio of length and width, and when a picture is too wide things get squished. Sigh
Most photo accounts allow you to select different formats to export pictures in. There should be a way to set the picture so it's small enough so the width problem doesn't crop up. You may have to try several settings.
Mike,
Nice tanks. I checked the Plastruct Structural Shapes catalog and found lots of staircases, but not like those nice curved ones you have on your tanks. Did you buy the staircases separate or did they come with the kit?
Thanks and regards, Peter
Peter,
Thanks!
Good question. The Refinery Kit has instructions, but it's simple. You take a stairway (#570-90662, IIRC), the ordinary straight one, and cut one side's stringer off. Sprue nippers or a razor saw will do it. What's left is nice and flexible. You start at the bottom, gluing the free end of the steps to the tank as you go up. It results in a nice curved stairway.
Nice topic, Ron.
Great photos and tips, Mike! You've got me thinking
Mike
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
I appreciate your comments.
At this point, the next thing people often say, "We think you're a bad influence..."
Naw, just kidding, mostly
Very much looking forward to any pics I help inspire.
Testing image transfer options.
Post deleted
White PVC Pipe and Connectors.
A 3/4" Connector, which should be something around a 7/8" out side diameter (Not to be confused with a pipe union, a two piece male/female connector.
Anyhow, the 3/4" connector makes a excellent base part, for a General Electric and or Seimens-Westinghouse Turbine Generator.
It will fit great on a Athearn 16 wheel heavy duty flat car.
Take a look on the inter-net, for photographs of the generators and study. Very easy to build from scratch.
This thread and its photos inspired me to have a go at this, so I visited the hardware store and came away with these [not the one on the right ]
The embossed lettering was easy to sand away.
I wanted to make a propane tank, but just two caps end to end seemed a bit short. The collar of a flip-top Jo Sonja's paint bottle fitted perfectly. There's a flat spot where you flip the lid, but it'll be out of sight on the underside.
Painted up with acrylics...
In some lighting the black is still just visible. If it ends up annoying me one more coat should finish it off. I'll make a cradle and add some details sometime.
To hide the join on the bigger ones I'm using 1/8 inch masking tape, with a dummy band lower down.
The plastic doesn't seem to like acrylics much, but it's easy to disguise the tape with paint.
OP: I was able to use an Xacto flat chisel blade to remove most of the raised molded-on lettering on end caps, then sand with 120 grit to complete the removal and smooth the end surfaces with 400 grit wet/dry.
One thing- be careful to vacuum or wet wipe the residual plastic PVC dust or particles when done with prep work- they may present a hazard if ingested.
Those came out great. I need to experiment more with the various size fittings from 4" on down (bigger one if you're in >HO scale, of course).
You're right about that slippery PVC. I may try some of the reformulated Rustoleum that claims increased plastic adhesion, but I suspect it really needs a primer of some kind. I need to look what the big box has over next time I'm there. If anyone has a reccomendation on a good plastic primer for PVC, let us know. That would make a very useful adddition to this thread.
Cheers Mike, and thanks to you Cedarwoodron and others for giving me the nudge to do it.
I found mine look weird with brush-painting, and they're better if it's nearly all rubbed off, leaving just a stain. The thing is though my sandpaper was too coarse and the staining shows up the scratches.
Cedarwoodron suggests sanding with 1000 grit to help them accept paint. I don't have anything that fine right now, but I soon will.
I don't know about Australia, but here in the US, I get my wet/dry finer grit papers at Walmart in the automotive aisles, where the bondo compound/auto body materials and touch-up paints are located- or, I guess, at an auto parts store or home center. Actually, 400 grit or higher seems to work- the 1000 grit begins to "polish" the plastic a bit.
I have painted a pvc piece by gently sanding ("rubbing") with a higher grit number paper and then priming with Wal Mart gray primer- works so far...
Cedarwood