Thanks for that info Guy. I have seen the small disk sanders at Micro Mark, and am planning on buying one. I plan on handlaying rail, so bundling and sanding makes sense.
Regards
Steve
Life is tough, but it's tougher if your'e stupid.
Steve,
I have built tons of models using the chopper...Yeah it has limits but it works very well within those limits and does save time.
Speaking to your issue: I would invest in a small disc sander or a true sander from NWSL to clean up the cuts in larger stock. I typically use a razor saw and the time honored U shaped cutting jig for larger stock.. I will set up marks and cut mutiple pieces to save time. I then will dress them on the sander... pretty qucik. If I have lots of pieces that are to be exactly the same size I use masking tape to bundle them and sand them all to exact length.... Not new techniques but thought I would mention it anyway.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Workin on it Frank. Workin on it, but there's soooo daaaang much!
Maybe after you get your Anchor unfouled.
Take Care!
Frank
Well, I have an older Craftsman scroll saw. I am going to get that Chopper III, as it looks like it will be much quicker on small stuff.
Thanks so much for the help guys. I wish I was at a stage to give back to this forum, but I just do not have the experience yet.
cacole I have an original North West Short Line Chopper and their newer Chopper III -- both use a single edge razor blade that will bend when trying to cut through material denser than balsa or stripwood larger than 1/8 inch across.
I have an original North West Short Line Chopper and their newer Chopper III -- both use a single edge razor blade that will bend when trying to cut through material denser than balsa or stripwood larger than 1/8 inch across.
I believe you may be using the wrong blades, if they are bending. Mine don't, I use Industrial strength single edge blades, they are more robust than just a single edge razor blade. Sharper also.
Fouled Anchor Frank, Hmmmm now I have to go out to the shop and look at mine. It's an older Craftsman, that I thought was a jig saw. Now I'm confused on the difference between a jig and a scroll. Ahhh, just read Jay's information. Ok, I have a scroll saw... neat. Thanks Jay. Thanks Steve
Frank, Hmmmm now I have to go out to the shop and look at mine. It's an older Craftsman, that I thought was a jig saw. Now I'm confused on the difference between a jig and a scroll.
Ahhh, just read Jay's information. Ok, I have a scroll saw... neat. Thanks Jay.
Thanks
Like I said earlier about the Craftsman 18'' scroll saw, here is a pic of the one I have:
I made an adjustable rip fence out of Aluminum for it.
BTW: That coiled tube is a LED light that is adjustable.
A jig saw is a handheld device, a scroll saw has the blade mounted in a table.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
rrebell, thanks. I will google it.
What you want is a Shay Wood Miter. It was produced many moons ago and is the best when set up right. Someone produces a copy today but forget who.
Frank... yup, learned that on my 66 Chevelle 396 SS. Love tools. Love em , love em, love em.
Oh... Frank, sorry. I reread your earlier reply, and there must be a difference between the "jig" and the "scroll". Gotta go google that again. I had just looked at the pictures and did not read the description... duh.
I was fortunate to work as a metal worker & I made a chopper from all heavy gauge steel with an aluminum cutting surface. The razor blade is secured with 2 screws & a steel backing. Will cut any thickness wood or plastic used for model work, also does a good jod on paper. Micro mark, or someone else should make a heavy duty one for serious modelers, after all a good one would be a once in a lifetime purchase...mine is over 30 years old.
Fouled Anchor zstripe, not sure what a scroll saw is, but will Google it. The more tools the better, eh? Ok, looked it up. Got one. I always called it a jig saw. Thanks Steve
zstripe, not sure what a scroll saw is, but will Google it. The more tools the better, eh?
Ok, looked it up. Got one. I always called it a jig saw.
The scroll saw I have, you can change the blades, to different sizes and cuts.
Yeah! about the tools. Owning my own trucks, three at once, along with playing with race cars, taught me many things. You can't work on most truck bolts with a half inch drive socket set. 3/4 and inch, now your talking....but you need deep pockets, how well I know that.
Not putting down any jig saws. I have a couple which I do like...but I found, using a scroll saw is a lot easier to use with better control. You can always see the blade and the work, plus you have both hands free. I have a 18'' inch throat Craftsman that I got years ago, built an adjustable rip fence for it and I thought it was a good buy for the money.
The chopper II is a lot more robust, than the masonite one, better precision, also the blades to get are Industrial single edge zirconium nitride coated blades, the most sharpest durable blades there are, worth the extra money, in the long run.
I used to build wood sailing ships. Still love it but my shakey left hand don't. Can be a pita, when it comes to rigging.
Thanks Ulrich. Actually I have a miniature jig and table saw out in the shop. Wanting something quick an easy for in the basement. I don't use the jig much, as I am not the best at freehand.
if you intend to do a lot of scratchbuilding, you might consider a set of decent power tools.
I have a small circular saw and a miniature jig saw, both made by Proxxon.
Well, I appreciate the Harbor Freight tip.
Thanks Bob
I am on vacations - so it might be a week or so till I will get a chance ! Sorry!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Thanks Bob, I have a Harbor Freight pretty close. I thought the Micro Mark price was a little steep. Could you get a picture of the built up ends?
Thanks for the info.
Unfortunately that is almost the same tool - Metal base and masoite base!
I have been using the Masonite base chopper for years with no problems.
YOU have to have a Sharp Blade!
Cutting real soft wood is a problem.
As for the Electric chopper saw
I have one from Harbor Freight - and it works great and the price is a LOT LESS than Micro mark - and it gets a real work out - as I cut a lot of twigs for LOG Loads.
I put mine on a longer OAK wood base and built up the ends so that I could hold LONG pieces of Strip Wood.
Thank you Frank. I had seen a picture of that one on some pictures posted here, but could not find it. It sure looks "beefy" enough.
I have the NWSL Chopper II, All cast metal, blade don't bend, will cut up to 1/4 inch plastic and wood, softer woods thicker.
I'm satisfied with it.
EDIT: Hobbylinc has it for 42.25 if your interested'
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/nws/nws69.htm
Scratch builders, what wood choppers do you recommend? I ask this because years ago, when into HO, I bought a wood chopper which was a bar with handle that you mounted a razor blade to. It was mounted to a piece of masonite. The whole thing was a piece of junk.
The problem was when cutting trestle ties, the razor blade would flex, and scallop each cut end, which then required dressing. What a pain. I noticed Micro Mark has a small radial saw, is it worth it?
I usually don't but things on the cheap. I like quality.