That's what I can't remember, which way the motors go in them. In many articulated motors, both motors trail their engines, but I kind of thought in the Bowser T1, both motors are at the center of the boiler and one faces the rear engine and one faces the front engine - in which case the wires have to be crossed because when running forward, one motor has to turn clockwise and the other counter-clockwise.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I reciently refurbished one and added a decoder to make it DCC.
I don't think the motors are wired the same because they are installed facing each other. The frames of the motors are contacting one rail, and both motor frames are in contact with the boiler, so the fiber brush holder on one motor might have to be 180 out from the brush holder on the other one. At least that may be a potential problem to check.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
First thing I would check is that all the wheels, both locomotive and tender, are installed the right way round. Just a single wheel set installed backwards sets up a dead short. Then I might check that both the motors are wired the same way round. If one is wired plus to minus, and the other minus to plus, when you apply power the two motors will fight each other, draw lots of current, and the model won't move. You can check for this by merely disconnecting one motor. Then I would check out the tender connection. Many die cast steamers pick up one rail from the tender wheels and feed the power up the draw bar or thru a connecting wire to the locomotive. If the tender has something reversed so that the wrong rail is being picked up , bad things can happen. A final thought, you can have a breakdown in the wheel insulation, resulting in a wheel set that is permanently shorted left wheel to right wheel. You probably need an ohmmeter to check that out.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hello Guys,
I recently aquired a late edition, dual motor Bowser T1 with full brass super detail kit. I have the basic kit put together and attempted a test run last night, but it seems to be dead shorting. I follwed the wiring diagram in the provided instructions, but something just does not seem correct. This is my sixth Bowser kit and the first time I have had any wiring issues with a Bowser. Dose anyone have a picture or diagram showing the correct wiring to get this thing to move under it own power?