Newbie needs some advice

[Anonymous]

Hello people

I was looking into my son's recently vacated bedroom ( 15'x12' ), thinking of what I could make use of my new founded space. I started remembering the really neat Lionel train set my Dad gave me for Xmas ( around 1965 ), but I couldnt play with ( I'm sure there's a few who know what I'm talking about ). I started searching the internet, and holy cow theres alot to learn. My finances dictate starting with HO gauge ( I think ). So, if I may, I have a few questions I would like to ask:

Which manufacture is the most popular? Which is best?

For a starter set, should I scour ebay for a nice "Old Stock, NIB "?

Didnt Lionel go out of business? I came across some new Lionel sets for sale. ( Living in Mich., I regreat I never got to tour the factory ).

I have no idea at this point if I want to try a huge, whole room layout, or something simple on a 4x8 sheet of plywood.

Where do I learn about the new Digital control setups ( I have no idea what this is, I just seen it mentioned somewhere )?

I have scrounged around this site for info, do you have another recommended site that a newbie should visit?

Thank You for you help
Jim in Michigan


PS: Before I get yelled at, I did do a search, but really didnt find what I was looking for. Sorry if these are FAQ's.

[DSchmitt]

HO Locos: Atlas and Kato are generally considered top of the line
Atrearn are considered good value.

HO Cars: Athearn are good for starters and usually the easyist to find of the good brands, but I'm sure there are a nunmber of other brands that could be mentioned.

Probably best to stay away from actually buying on EBAY until you have some experience and know what you want and some idea of value. But do look at what is offered.

If you have some friends in the hobby and/or a good train store nearby with experienced staff , it would be best to talk to them. Most but not all train sets are low end entry level items. Best to put your own together from individual items with help from knowledgeable people. You need a good power supply, although not necessairly the most expensive.
The MRC's are generally considered good. ATLAS is good servicable track and probably the easiest to find.

Better to start small, but allow for expansion. If your first layout is well done you can thin incorporate into a larger layout in the future. Although its mor likly thay you will decide to state ove, salvaging what you can. Note thought that 4' x 8' limits you to max 22" radius curves (18" more coommon). Most of us probably started with a 4 x 8 or smaller. This means small locos and short cars and short trains in HO for best appearance and operation. Other configerations, such as a shelf layout can have broader curves and allow for larger equipment, longer trains, longer runs, more industries and more apparent scenery . This does take up more space, but the actual sq footage of layout is often not any greater., just more useable.

I will let other, more knowlegable people, discuss DCC. However I do recommend that your locos be at least DCC ready.

I personally prefer N scale to HO, but I also play around with O and am building an On30 layout.

[Anonymous]

I know no one in the hobby and no good hobby stores within an hours drive, so I am dependant on the internet.

Thanx for the reply, cant wait to hear more.

Jim

[Anonymous]

Iam also new to the hobby of model railroading and have found lots of good information by simply serching with google.Its helped me and hopfully it can help you.

Benjamin R.

[rexhea]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimross

I know no one in the hobby and no good hobby stores within an hours drive, so I am dependant on the internet.

Thanx for the reply, cant wait to hear more.

Jim

[#welcome]

Hi Jim and welcome,
You have already made one very good move by coming to this forum. I have only been on it a few months, but have gained a wealth of information as well as fellowship. I only wish I had joined from my start a year ago.

I would recommend you buy several of the Kalmbach books for beginners. They really helped me get a perspective on what is involved in starting a layout of all sizes. Go to the NMRA web site and read all of their information and they have some great links to private layout sites. Look them over and see if you can get some ideas .

Many of us use DCC (digital) for our layouts and I personally would recommend it to anyone even though it is a little more costly. It is absolutely incredible for the realism you can now have in your operations by using it--- particularly if you use sound.

As you progress along, come to the forum for any questions you have. There are many members that are experts in the different areas and are more than willing to help.

Happy Railroading,
REX [:)]

[jwar]

This year I started and have the same space as yours. I had a trunk full of 1965 era stuff and thougt I would try just a shelf layout to see if I still wanted to really get into it. Then I expanded into a corner 3 X 4 to try scenery and really surprised myself.

Well Im hooked like a trout, pulled sheetrock, insulated the room, more electrical outlets, and started a around the room layout. Now im into a helex so that I can do it again.

As to the hour drive, perhaps this would prove benificial to take the time. I actually met a very old friend comming out of the hobby shop as I entered. He retired a few years after me , unknowenly we both starten into the hobby and in HO. Now we take a trip once a month on a two hour drive to visit various hobby shops, have lunch and a heck of a lot of chuckles.

We both call them to order by mail. They probaly know people in your area, Some modlers leave a card to be contacted by, If you can find a club layout think about visiting.

This forum is great and there is a lot of great info from very good people. Some are very professional, some rivit counters, nubies (as I) and a lot of old timers (presumaly younger then me). Others could care less about scenery and just run um for the fun of it, doesnt matter to me a bit, they all enjoy this passtime.

This hobby is not a quick gratification thing like some others as it takes time to get things accomplished. But if you sometimes just like to sit back with a cup of coffee and admire your work, from building the tablework, wireing, track work and look at what in your openion a railroad should be (its your perspective and no other) then go for it.

As far as good products, I try to buy decent engines and will run about a $100 or so. Finding my old stuff worked great, helped. Theres good buys in this webs mag and lots of great info. Being our train rooms are about the same size, its kind of like buying a boat...wishing it was two feet longer.

Take care Jim....and enjoy.

[Anonymous]

One thing I have learned after only slightly over a year in this hobby is what i DON'T want. LOL There is so much great new stuff out there in HO, ON-30, and O-scale and O gauge. In the latest issuse of O scale magizine there is a great artical on doing a switching layout in a space your size. If you can't find the magizine, contact me and i'll copy it and pop it to you in the mail.
ON-30 is a great new scale, 1/48 scale using HO size track. These are some fantastic detailed engines from bachman (shay, 2-8-0) and Broadway limited imports 2-8-0 with sound for around 300.00.
The thing that grabbed me and dragged me back into the hobby is SOUND. Steam comes alive with it, so much more than the smoke IMHO. LOL
Still, great time to get into this hobby. BIll

[DSchmitt]

A good book to get is Track Planning For Realistic Operation by John Armstrong

Realistic Model Railroad Design annd Realistic Model Railroad Operation by Tony Koester are good books too. John's book is more factual info, Tony's books more idea oriented.

In addition to them Kalmbach has an extensive range of useful book on all aspects of the hobby.


Model Railroader usually has good articles for beginners. They have had some on choosing equipment. Their reviews, and reviews in competitor magazines (such as Railroad Model Craftsman) can be very useful in chosing good products.

You can often find low prices on the Internet, but it pays to compare. Also many Internet stores do not have all the items listed in stock to you may not get an item in a timely maner from them or even get it at all. There are some who do try provide stocking status or only list items they have but they may have some lag time.

Even if you can only get into a good train store a couple times a year, it's worth the trip and if they have somthing you want is often a good idea to purchase it there. It will help keep them in business and they will be glad to see you[:D]

I've actually seen people check out an item, the tell the clerk they were going to order it from an Internet store[V]

[Anonymous]

You will soon discover that this hobby can be overwhelming. The HO Walthers' catalog has over 1,000
pages of products, N gauge perhaps 500 pages.
There are at least 15 different loco manufacturers and more in rolling stock. Prices for a diesel rtange
from $15.00 crap to the $150.00 quality range and steamers more.
In a nut shell, it's what's under the shell that counts. Don't let a picture ad & a cheap price fool you.

What about track curve radius?
If possible consider 22" or more. Generally, three axle locos, larger steamers and long passenger cars
require 22" or better.
The 40'/50' freight cars(metal wheels & knuckle couplers) handle 18" radius.
Power packs?
The list goes on

[Anonymous]

Welcome to the forum! I'd suggest looking at Lifelike's HO scale Proto ranges - Proto 1000 and Proto 2000 (these have the same drive systems, but Proto 2k have more detailing parts added. Both can be found at substantial discounts if you shop around - look through the adverts in Model Railroader to find prices. Avoid Lifelike's standard range - these are awful! DCC installation (should you decide to do this) is also very simple as the circuit board inside the loco has pre-drilled holes to solder the decoder pins to. Personally, I would advocate adopting DCC from the start - it will cost more, but it's easier to start with DCC than to have to convert all your locos later on - this way, you'll spread the cost of decoders as you'll be buying them when you buy a loco. I'm currently wondering how much it will cost me to convert my fleet of 20+ locos should I decide to go DCC...!

I agree with the last comment about curves - go for the largest radius that you can, as this means you won't be restricted in what you can run in the future. If you decide you want a set of Walthers streamlined passenger cars these need at least 22' radius and ideally more, as do most longer cars. I would recommend the Walthers cars as being very well made and detailed at a sensible price. Their freight cars are also worth a look if you intend to model modern trains. Good luck!

[eastcoast]

Welcome.
I would like to suggest that while you
are surfing the net, go to Walthers.com
and ask for them to add you to the mailer
for the Terminal Hobby Shop catalogs.
This is how I purchase 90% of my stock
and at a very reasonable price, some are
at great discounts. As you get deeper in
your quest, look for things that you can repaint
or redo to suit your styles.
READ BOOKS. Their are millions of pages and
articles waiting to be read. I have collected a
personal library of model and train references
to help me along.
ASK QUESTIONS !!!!! Best way to obtain knowledge
is to speak to others who can help.
We can help.
Ken

[Anonymous]

Welcome Jim! You've gotten good advice here. DCC in a nutshell is like radio control for airplanes cars and boats. Each locomotive has a decoder installed in it, which detects signals sent through the rails which pertain only to that decoder/loco You can have more than one loco running on the same track doing its' particular job and not be effected by signals sent to another loco. Many of the DCC manufacturers have information on DCC at their websites which will give you a better idea of what it's about, than I can describe to you. I use Digitrax. Their website is at www.digitrax.com. DCC is a nice way to go and I strongly urge looking into it before making up your mind about how to proceed.