This applies to either structures or rolling stock, perhaps more significantly with the latter, as small mistakes are easily noticed and far less forgiving if repair is attempted:
I have been using a strong double-stick tape for attaching small cutout pieces of clear plastic to the insides of my models, to retain them. I get this particular tape from a drafting supplier and use it at school (teacher-me) - it's primary use is to hold down the large sheet vinyl covers placed on drafting tables.
I have been using this method for over 3 years now- ever since I ruined a kitbash caboose with Testor's clear canopy glue (after foolishly trying CA glue first) and none of my model's window pieces on which the tape was used show any signs of "drying out" or losing adhesion. Easy to cut with a very small scissor or sharp- bladed knife, and I "oversise" the clear window piece so that I have a hidden edge along which I apply the tape.
I measure the space first, then cut the window plastic. I next check how much tape is needed and apply that with the backing still on the other side of it to final check the fit, then remove the backing. I then use tweezers to place the window properly and use a toothpick to burnish the window piece (where the tape is underneath) against the car or structure interior. Some jobs require one piece; others two- one piece on each side, etc.
If you make a mistake, the tape is easily removeable and does no harm to either the window plastic or the inner wall of the structure or rolling stock item.
Hope this helps others...
Cedarwoodron
Just how thick is that dounle sided tape? Does that small space/ crack show at the opening?
I use liquid Testor's or MEK applied w/ a brush to the overlapped edges and it "wicks" under the thin clear styrene. Careful w/ the amount applied so that it won't run out to the opening. I tried that CA "thing" once and craized the plastic. I guess everyone has to mess it up "once"
Nothing wrong w/ canopy cement, it is the "first" choice for many modelers. I will use it on exremely small pieces or lenses.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
This tape is very thin- made so that it does not create a "raised bump" under the drafting vinyl cover, where you need a smooth surface.
May have found a good way especially for glazing multiple industrial windows. Need to check it out.
Can you provide the manufacture of the tape & maybe even a part #
While you could get this tape at a blueprint/graphics store, I order it online from Hearlihy, a vendor to many school districts for tech ed and drafting. They are a subsidiary of Pitsco, a major school tech ed supplier. Hearlihy maintains its own website. The tape is just listed as double-stick drafting board tape- easy to look up on their website. You may also have some luck at Staples or Office Depot stores.
Thanks
I've been using a product by Loctite called "Go2Glue" first for structures then windows in an engine cab. It's an overnight dry job but I've been very pleased with it and it dries clear. It also worked on wood railroad crossings to track. Available at home centers and hardware stores.
Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!
I've been using "Formula '560' Canopy Glue" by Pacer since I discovered it several years ago. Looks like white glue, dries clear.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
Cedar - I'm still painting prior to assembly and haven't installed windows yet, but thinking ahead I was going to try the thin dbl-sided tape that comes with window insulation film at home centers. Tape can usually be bought separately. If you know what I'm talking about, is your drafting board tape similar? Very thin, invisible, forgiving.
Hello I use double face tape by3M. Its the tape that comes with the plastic for drafty windows. It works fine have not had any fall off yet in 2 years. The plastic works great for single pain windows like old store fronts. Cut a little bigger then needed tape down and blow hot air on it to shrink the plastic . Hope this helps Frank
Thanks for that, Frank. Thought it would work but glad to have your confirmation. I plan to pop a few out once in a while for a bldg being renovated or after a fire to make the whole scene dynamic.
Hello any time Paul just make sure the surface is clean and press the tape down real good. The gule on the tape needs the pressuer to activate. The plastic does not need a lot of heat to get tight. I will try and get a photo of mine. Hope this helps Frank
Paul: My tape is very thin- if the adhesive was not on either side, it would be similar to kitchen cellophane wrap- that is pretty thin! I am sure there are other similar products available, but- as this tape was "at hand" as something I use at work, I "stick with it"!.
One thing I do like is that I can burnish it quite well against the surface I am attaching it to with that toothpick method I described briefly. How I know I did it effectively is seeing the "air pockets" disappear when pressure is applied.
As I mentioned in my OP- I have a number of structure and rolling stock window applications done with this tape that are a few years old already and none show any signs of losing adhesion.
I've had very good luck with Microscale's Kristal Klear.
I just re-installed the windows in a P2K SW9 using Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. I put the windows in place in the cab and then applied a small amount of the decal film to the edges of the window glazing where it sits against the walls of the cab. It wicked itself between the glazing and the cab wall very quickly. I clamped the windows in place for a few hours. When I removed the clamps and tested the windows for adhesion they were stuck in place pretty well. The best thing was that there was absolutely no sign of the decal film on the windows.
Quick and easy! No fiddling with strips of tape in small spaces (no disrespect to the OP - I can see the tape working very well in structures where there is some space to work with and where clamping would be a challenge).
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
One other thought on attachment of things (other than clear windows)- I recently used colored "washi" tape (a Japanese brand name?) I bought at Staples or Office Depot to represent color separation striping on the shell of a car I was working on (after the painting was done). I cut the tape down to the width I needed, and it's adhesive stuck well. I THEN sprayed Testor's Dull Cote on top of the whole shell after decaling to tone down the shine, and the dull cote added to the retention of the tape stripe by coating the area where the edge of the tape met the car body and sealing it.