FrryKid,
After giving it considerable thought, I believe Mark is correct, in His grasping at straws.
Most paints I used or use, are solvent based, but I have bought some house paint, latex, that have experienced the same, as you describe.
Take Care!
Frank
Mark R. We've had a pretty cold winter this year. It's possible - being water based paint - it could have gotten frozen at some point in transit. Once paint has frozen and thaws back out, it never performs the same for some reason. Just grasping at straws .... Mark.
We've had a pretty cold winter this year. It's possible - being water based paint - it could have gotten frozen at some point in transit. Once paint has frozen and thaws back out, it never performs the same for some reason.
Just grasping at straws ....
Mark.
That is entirely possible. That same thought had occurred to me when I saw your post given they were purchased in February, and this winter has been so much colder and I had never had gotten paint in those conditions before.
The two bottles that I had tried previously have been isolated and will not be used again. I will try the other two bottles later and if they don't work, I will get new paint given that it is a lot warmer lately.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Contrary to mentions in previous posts, until this situation, I never had this kind of problem with Polly S/Polly Scale. I have used it extensively with my equipment - all brush painted. The paint was used on both plastics and metals without problems.
Given that the bottles I have are from the same batch (they came in a manufactures case from where I ordered them from), I am still leaning toward the possibility that these bottles have gone bad. I have tried two different bottles from the case and both of them have resulted in the same conditions.
As previously stated, I will be going out to my layout tomorrow where I can use stripper without anyone complaining about the smell. I plan to remove the old paint and try again with a different bottle in a small area to see if the problem occurs again. If so, I will obtain a new bottle or two.
Brush painted the white metal casting motorcycle over the last couple days, used Testors enamel paint 1/4oz bottles that I picked up at a grocery store close out sale.
regards, Peter
When brush painting I mostly use my older collection of "Model Master paints". The newer bottles I've purchased within the last couple years seem oily like, takes a lot of mixing and even then doesn't go on well, though a primer coat helps. In my experience so far the newer stuff doesn't seem to airbrush as well either.
zstripeLumber loads,
zstripeturnup trucks
Frank,
In the days of old out in the "oil patch", "Just rode in on a load of lumber" meant the same as "fell off a turnip" truck". Nothing like the "aroma" of a passing cattle truck when riding my bike.
FRRYKid, sorry for the off-topic, Regards, Peter
If you're using the latest iteration of Pollyscale, you'll find it unsatisfactory for brushing as it's sold "ready for airbrushing". I can't imagine that it's so difficult to find distilled water that this was a necessary improvement. PollyScale was a decent paint for brush application, and, when thinned with distilled water, good for airbrushing. The latest (last) version is close enough to useless (although not as bad as Floquil's last gasp) that it's just as well they'll both be gone.
Wayne
Peter,
Lumber loads, wire steel loads, bundled steel at least five oversize loads or Euclid tire loads, tires were 13ft tall. Although there were turnup trucks, I never drove any. In use of that term, is in use of the term, ''just got off the boat'' amongest truck drivers. There is a great differance between Isopropyl Alcohol and Denatured Alcohol, I lot of people don't know that. They think Alcohol is Alcohol, wrong! You could also use good old Lacquer thinner, but the fear mongers have a lot of the general public scared to death of some solvents.
Next time you are near a Wilson Grain trailer, see if you can sniff, Turnips, sugar beets and you will surely smell this one, ''fish meal''.
I had used Polly S in this color before they changed to the Polly Scale and I have used Polly S on recent projects in a couple other colors and I this problem didn't show in either situation. As to other mention about the Polly Scale being better, why was it stated that Polly S and Polly Scale would still intermix?
Another thing that is interesting. It seems that the paint is not sticking to the project. I can take a toothpick or even a popsicle stick and remove the paint. This is something that I have never run into before this problem.
I will be going to where I can use some stripper and I will strip off the paint and try again on a sample area.
The only other things I could think of are the following: 1. Somehow my brushes have gone bad and don't get along with the paint anymore. 2. The paint that I have has gone bad. 3. The models I have won't properly accept the paint for some reason.
zstripeso it's not like I just fell off a turnip truck.
Apologies to the O.P., but Frank, you crack me up. Did you ever haul any turnips or a load of lumber? But seriously, I've got a quart of denatured alcohol sitting on the shelf doing nothing, would be nice if I could use it to clean brushes and air brush parts.
I mostly use Floquil enamels, but even when preceded with a coat of primer they don't lend themselves to brush painting very well. I still have some usable bottles of the old formula Floquil enamel and they can be brush painted to some success with multiple coats preceded by primer.
I don't remember what I was trying to accomplish, but did try to mix some Isopropyl Alcohol with some cheap acrylic craft piant and ended up a gooey mess.
FRRYKid,
Well all I can say is when it comes painting real custom cars trucks and Models, I do know my way around paints and finishes, so it's not like I just fell off a turnip truck. You believe what you want to.
bogp40 is right. I used to paint Polly S and Polly Scale with a brush. I painted things first with a spray can of flat gray as a primer. When I then brush painted the item, usually a wood type structure made of plastic, it didn't cover completely and it made the building look older and faded. If I wanted a new look, I had to use at least one more coat.
Now, there is a difference between Polly S and Polly Scale. They are not the same. Polly S is older and was replaced by Polly Scale because it is a better paint. So don't expect a real good experience with Polly S.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I have Polly S Paint.
What brand of paint are you using? That can make a difference.
zstripe First off, I would get rid of the distilled water and use Denatured Alcohol. Also use it to clean brush's. Frank BTW: What paint are you using?
First off, I would get rid of the distilled water and use Denatured Alcohol. Also use it to clean brush's.
BTW: What paint are you using?
Burlington Northern #24 How much time post brush painting are you letting your models sit? I've learned the hard way that they need to be dry before you handle them again(even when they seem dry but are still a bit damp). Also while painting I'd reccomend handling the model from the inside of the shell unless you have something to hold them while you paint.
How much time post brush painting are you letting your models sit? I've learned the hard way that they need to be dry before you handle them again(even when they seem dry but are still a bit damp). Also while painting I'd reccomend handling the model from the inside of the shell unless you have something to hold them while you paint.
With this last batch of problems, they sat for at least 8 hours. They were painted before I went to work and I examined them when I got home and discovered the problem. Handling them in a locale that is not being painted is what I normally do.
MisterBeasley Wash the models well before you paint them. A flat primer will probably help with getting the paint to adhere evenly. You might try thinning the paint, and using multiple coats instead of trying to cover evenly with a single thick coat. Brush painting will never give the even coverage of spray paint. I find rattle-can paints from the hardware store to be far better than brush painting. Get some blue painters' tape for masking, and take your time cutting and applying it. If nothing else, a spray of clear satin finish overcoat will give you a better surface.
Wash the models well before you paint them. A flat primer will probably help with getting the paint to adhere evenly. You might try thinning the paint, and using multiple coats instead of trying to cover evenly with a single thick coat.
Brush painting will never give the even coverage of spray paint. I find rattle-can paints from the hardware store to be far better than brush painting. Get some blue painters' tape for masking, and take your time cutting and applying it.
If nothing else, a spray of clear satin finish overcoat will give you a better surface.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
HELP!!! What would cause paint on a model to look like it was fingerpainted? It comes up very splotchy and it is not covering well.
The paint is applied by brush. They are cleaned with distilled water and then the brushs are put in window cleaner to get the last bits of paint and then rinsed again in distilled water and air dried. I have made sure that the paint is well mixed just in case the paint has separated. I have never had this problem until very recently and it is occurring on multiple models on multiple materials (plastic and metal).
If anyone has any ideas, they would be most welcomed.