Do you prefer to spray over weathering powders?

[cjcrescent]

I don't limit myself to one method either. I will use anything and everything that will give me the effect I'm after. I've used real dirt, chalks, ashes, paint, powdered foundation(Thanks Honey!), eyeliner pencil.

For those of you having a problem getting the chalks to remain in place, even when applied to a flat surface, after application, lightly spray them with the cheapest hair spray you can find. To apply this spray above the model and let the hair spray mist down onto the model. Don't handle until it drys. Then mist down a shield coat like your favorite flat finish. The hair spray will hold it in place until it's sealed, and there will be no change in appearence.

[twhite]

I use the Bragdon powders to weather, applying them with a stiff brush and vacuuming away the excess.  After that, I don't seal them.  I've had pretty good luck not leaving fingerprints while handling the locos cars.  Though I really admire modelrs who airbrush their models, no matter how many times I've tried over the years, my airbrush attempts always turn out to be major disasters (anyone want a slightly used Paasche and pump, lol?). 

Tom

[C&O Fan]

I've been using Pan Pastels and really like them

I can't use an air Brush as i have a perminate Trache < Hole in my neck to breathe

Due to Throat Cancer And i have no way to filter out the spray

 

So these are the answer for me

 

They adhear very well and i don't use a sealer on the cars just the locos

But i doubt it would be needed

[doctorwayne]

Cisco Kid

...I like the look best compared to those I spray which tend to have the "dusty" look removed and replaced with a deeper contrast weathered look. The sprayed ones loose some of the realism of the weathered look it seems to me.....

You can get a dusty look with airbrushing, too, but you need to use suitable colours and, as with most airbrushed weathering, more thinner than paint.  I like about 90-95% thinner (lacquer thinner for paints such as Floquil, and distilled water for acrylics like PollyScale).  Also, do any Dullcoting before airbrushed weathering, as applying it afterwards yields a too-uniform finish.

I generally apply weathering fairly lightly, and dust is a good way to show that a car has been used but is not that old.  It should also be the last weathering colour applied, as much of it might be washed away after the next rain.  If you wish to depict rusted or heavily-begrimed cars, apply that weathering before the "dust".  Greys, browns, and even white can be useful for depicting dust, and in some areas, the dust may have a very noticeable reddish cast to it. 
A couple of examples of my dusty cars:

This Athearn BB car represents one about 4 or 5 years old, so it got some additional weathering before the dust was applied - perhaps a little too much dust, I think

I wanted these Bowser covered hoppers to reflect their relatively new status, but still look like they earn their keep:

This MDC car required a fair bit of modification, and was lightly weathered, mostly with "dust", just because I didn't want it to be too dirty :

Another fairly well-maintained car, although showing a little more service, is this Train Miniature boxcar.  I do all airbrushed applications of dust with the car moving on its own wheels, to ensure that the wheel faces get a uniform covering.  In most cases, the spray is directed at or below the sidesill - this keeps the concentration of colour low (where it would most likely collect when kicked-up by passing trains or the car itself), with the coverage dropping off farther up the car's side:

 

For powder weathering, I use cheap stick-type artists' pastels - simply rub them over some medium-coarse sandpaper, then dump the resultant powder into a suitable container and apply with a soft brush.  These seem to stick well (sometimes too well, so some care may be necessary during the initial application) and I've not found it necessary to overspray them with any clear finish, nor have I had any issues with fingerprints, even though the cars are handled regularly.
This Tyco reefer got pastel weathering in an attempt to cover some botched weathering caused by an airbrush malfunction, and were my first attempt using this medium.  Some of the most useful colours for these cars (there are four of them) were various shades of yellow, which hid some of the problem and also toned-down the starkness of the lettering.  I'll certainly make more use of it in the future, but I don't think that any one type of weathering technique needs to always be chosen over another.

Here's an un-weathered car:

..and one attempt at correcting a problem:

Oh, and one additional remark:  Real dust is not weathering for scale models, and there is no excuse for trying to represent it as such.

Wayne

 

[maxman]

carl425

The major problem IMO of not putting a matte finish on top of the powders is the 1:1 scale fingerprint that ends up on the side of the car the first time it has to be re-reailed.

My feelings exactly.

[mbinsewi]

I tend to leave them alone after weathering.  I usually do the base, such as fading, and a layer "age", etc with an airbrush, but after the chalks and powders, I usually leave as is.  I have yet to find a spray that works and leaves a satisfactory finish.  Most sprays, no matter what they say, or other users say, in my eyes, do something to the powders that I do not like, and leave a somewhat semi-gloss sheen, and makes the powders seem to disappear.

I have not yet tried to thin a dull coat paint, and apply it with an air brush.  I have used brush on acrylic dull coats over decals, and that seems to work ok.  I have some cans of Dull-Coat, maybe I'll try my "spray-can-to-air-brush" transfer, and thin it with some lacquar thinner, and see how that works.

I read an article, where  make-up and eye shadow was used as a weathering powder, ( woman use it for a reverse aging and weathing powder) and it stays in place as good as, if not better than the expensive brand name weathering powders, of which I also have not yet tried, because I believe they are way over priced for what they are, when you can buy a few pastel and chalk sticks, and shave off product, and create your own powders, as you need them.

Just some of my thoughts.  Have a great week end!

Mike.

 

[carl425]

The major problem IMO of not putting a matte finish on top of the powders is the 1:1 scale fingerprint that ends up on the side of the car the first time it has to be re-reailed.  I aggre however that they look best fresh and unsprayed.  Maybe take a photo before the overspray?

[Anonymous]

(By weathering powders I mean largely the Bragdon powders with glue base, though I also use pastels, charcoals and chalks.)

I have tried both ways....leaving as is and also spraying on a matte fixative layer.

I apply the powders generously then brush off and vacuum and blow off excess.  I like the look best compared to those I spray which tend to have the "dusty" look removed and replaced with a deeper contrast weathered look.  The sprayed ones loose some of the realism of the weathered look it seems to me.

Do you worry about dustiness of these powders on the layout or in handling?

I suppose there is a trade off:  in trying to keep the dusty look one must expect some loose particles...though the Bragdon powders seem to hold on well when rubbed in well.

What do you like to do?