doctorwayneThere was a similar article, pre-1980, in either MR or RMC on building a pinhole attachment for a 35mm SLR
That may be the artricle I'm thinking of. I thought it appeared in the late '70s shortly after I started subscribing, but when I began Googling, the only reference I could find was the Sept. '86 article. I just assumed I was mistaken.
Steve S
Steven S Back in the Sept. '86 issue of MR, Michael Tylick had an aritcle about modifying an SLR lens with a pinhole aperture. He used a thin brass sheet and held it in place between the glass elements with small wires. IIRC, he acheived an f-stop of somewhere around f100. Steve S
Back in the Sept. '86 issue of MR, Michael Tylick had an aritcle about modifying an SLR lens with a pinhole aperture. He used a thin brass sheet and held it in place between the glass elements with small wires. IIRC, he acheived an f-stop of somewhere around f100.
There was a similar article, pre-1980, in either MR or RMC on building a pinhole attachment for a 35mm SLR, and my version of it gave an aperture equivalent to f125. It fit into the rear of the standard lense, but unlike Bob's version, it was not possible to view the scene through the lense. I more-or-less guessed at exposure times for the first couple rolls of film. It yielded passable results, but with some vignetting effect due to the relative thickness of the metal used (about .003" I think):
Wayne
That's what I did, a little simpler though. I glued a small strip of shim brass with a pinhole right next to the lenses' aperture blades. I was able to view and compose the scene with the 28mm lens wide open, then close down the apertures so light cam only through the pinhole. The lens I used was a totally manual focus and aperture, and I didn't use it for anything else. Unfortunately the smaller sensor in my digital cameras meant the lens worked out to be around 55 mm, and I could not get the same results with digital. I now use an 11-18mm lens on my Canon DSLR, and can get almost the depth of field with this lens.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
You are welcome, Bob. I found getting to know how to use the software relatively easy. It's getting to know how it works with each image that is the time consumer. Each image is different in how its subjects and supporting cast are situated at a given angle and depth, and the software renders a decent image only after I have spent nearly ten minutes setting up the camera position, taking six to eight trial images, and then seeing what the software does with it. I have literally gone back to the layout six and seven times to shoot the entire series all over again, changing lighting, moving things, changing the camera position or angle, and even changing the depths of focus into the scene until the software renders a good solid image.
In my case, then comes all the cloning to make the steam and smoke effects. I think I spent nearly three hours per Weekend Photo fun submission in many cases, but....it IS a hobby.
-Crandell
Crandell: Many thanks for outlining your method of using a P&S camera to do stackable photos. When I heard of the software, I assumed only a DSLR that could be focused manually would be suitable. But you've done a great job on explaining your cradle idea, which obviously works great.
I downloaded the Combine EZ software but have yet to try it. I can get acceptable depth of focus for my needs by using an extreme wide angle lens and a small aperture on my DSLR.
Crandell
Thanks for taking the time to write such an extensive tutorial.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Corection: no need to manually focus. I don't. I use a Canon P&S that is seven years old, on manual, but it focuses automatically.
Some basics for CombineZP.
a. You must pick a general aiming point suitable for your composition, and RETURN faithfully to that aiming point with each successive exposure/shutter release. Or else... Some variance is acceptable, but the more variance the greater the garbage you'll get from the software. Try for 96% accuracy or better.
b. How to get that accuracy? Use a cradle that you can slide your camera into. Make one out of thin smoothly finished plywood and set the cradle on objects previously placed or on a bean bag. The cradle needs a flat base, one side vertically situated relative to the base, and a back also vertical. The camera is taken up, focused to the desired depth, and then set back into place after the shutter release. The vertical side and back are the two stops against which the camera is set, thus restoring the aiming point and minimizing variance.
c. The previous description should make it obvious you need to use a delay timer for the shutter release. It gives you a chance to set the camera in place once again.
d. Use macro setting and a close focus to get the items and terrain within 10 cm of the camera into focus for the first shot, and another two or three more after that out to about 12-14".
e. Switch out of macro and commence a series of images focused to 12", 16", 24", 36", 48", and then a last one beyond to the backdrop. For scenes deeper than about 5', your camera will focus well from that depth beyond in many cases, but experiment. Generally, you need more exposures close to the camera with only a few cm between them in depth of focus, but as you get beyond 5', you can enlarge your focus changes to a couple of feet at a time. I found I only needed six to eight exposures in all for a long shot covering 7' or more on my layout.
f. Once you have your exposures, you download them to an empty 'new photos' file in your imaging software, whatever that is. Then, do a batch conversion of all image files to tiff files. That way, they all become the same file size, after which Combine ZP can work on their integration into one file. The freeware FastStone, which I have used for this for years, allows batch conversions. One quick step.
g. You then open CZP and click 'new' at upper left, locate that folder, import the files, then move right on the task bar, select the all methods option, and then click 'go'. Wait two minutes, and it'll render an image that, if you did things with minimal variance, will be a superbly focused raw file with a weird croppable border on all four sides. Do crop it, and then fiddle with the image for saturation, colour balance, noise, etc.
Thanks everybody for the replies. Helicon Focus at $92 is probably overkill for me. I've downloaded CombineZP and will give it a try as soon as I figure out how to manually focus my Nikon P520. It also will be quite some time before I can post any model RR subjects as I only have the basic benchwork up. Probably be a couple months before I have any track laid. - Bill
ahhh, thanks, LION, that makes sense.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain I have to say, this is extremely interesting, and I have never heard of this process before. I really struggle with taking photos of my layout or specific scenes on it. Taking photos of locos gives me no end of trouble with fuzzy focus. I assume to effectively use this stack process, at least some of your photos need to be in focus, correct? Rich
I have to say, this is extremely interesting, and I have never heard of this process before.
I really struggle with taking photos of my layout or specific scenes on it. Taking photos of locos gives me no end of trouble with fuzzy focus.
I assume to effectively use this stack process, at least some of your photos need to be in focus, correct?
To use this kind of software you must set up your camera on a sturdy tripod, and using manual focus must take a series of shots with the focus moving from near to far. What you end up with is about 5 to 10 shots each with a different part of the photo in proper focus. The program then combines them in to one photograph with proper focus throughout.
I have used both programs, I like Helcion better for its ease of use, but of course the price is beyond the ken of a LION. Him uses the free one for now.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I use Helicon Focus,and have been happy with the results. I haven't tried CombineZP(yet),but the results I've seen from Selector,and others on the forum,are very good. The Helicon software is free to try(I think for 30 days)and is available in several price options should you decide to buy.If you try either,or both,please post some shots of your results!
Mike
http://www.combinezp.software.informer.com/ is free, and I use it exclusively. Here is an example of what it can do.
Helicon Focus in one of many
I recall some time ago there was an article about a computer program that would allow you to combine several photos of the same subject so that you get nearly unlimited depth of focus. Anyone know the program or the article? Thanks - Bill