How do I get the best natural lighting when photographing my layout?

[Anonymous]

My layout is inside a shed, with no windows (they're blocked by the backdrop), and I'd like to take some nice photos. I'm wondering what the best type of lighting would be. Right now the layout is lit by four work lamps - the kind that has a reflective bowl with a clamp and takes a standard light bulb - suspended from the rafters. I use florescent bulbs, the screw in type that save wattage. I know they're probably not what I need. Is incandescent best, and are there particular types that work better than others? Also, would certain filters be helpful?
Also, what type of flash works best, and should it be bounced?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! [:D] Thanks.

[CNJ831]

If we are talking anything more than taking a few very basic snapshots here, I'm afraid that this is really too complex a subject to address in just a single post (although I'm equally sure that some here will attempt to do so!). If you are interested in taking some quality, realistic photographs of your modeling efforts, I would strongly recommend the book "Model Photography" by Bruce Nall, Rocky Mountain Publishing, Denver, CO. as a good primer. Model Railroader magazine has also published some fairly good general guides to basic model photography over the years and I think one may still be available on-line. Check their lead page, perhaps under how to submit material to the magazine.

There are indeed filters that compensate for each type of lightsource and you need to be aware what goes with what. Only a few very specialized bulbs or tubes give off sun-like illumination. Likewise, at least where film is concerned, some are much better suited to the task than others. Proper lighting is very important and in general three separate light sources are necessary for a quality picture: a primary, a fill, and a kicker. In most situations, flash will work very poorly. Digital photography can compensate for some of the shortcomings found when employing film but certainly not all of them. Incidentally, after 20 years in model photography, I still much prefer working with film to using a digital camera and juggling the images on the computer.

CNJ831

[jfugate]

There is no one best way to light your layout for photographs, but here's what I have done. By using a higher end digital camera with white balancing features and both F-stop and shutter speed control, I can use the layout's normal lighting and take great photos, too.

If all you want to do is take photos to show your friends or to post on the web, then the high-end digital camera may be overkill. But if you want to take nice photos for publication, you'll need a camera that's at least 4 megapixels.

I use low wattage incandescents (15 and 25 watt) so I don't have a heat issue, and so they are cheap to install. Here's some details on how I do this from my web site:


See: http://siskiyou.railfan.net/model_clt.html

Here's a sample photo taken with a nice digital camera under these lights:

[jfugate]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CNJ831
Digital photography can compensate for some of the shortcomings found when employing film but certainly not all of them. Incidentally, after 20 years in model photography, I still much prefer working with film to using a digital camera and juggling the images on the computer.

After getting a high-end digital Canon EOS SLR, I have stopped using film all together. The camera has all the settings you could ever want, and I can take a photo of a white sheet of paper under the layout lighting and then tell the camera to use that photo to do white balance and ... voila!

Here's a test photo I took under the regular layout lights when I first got the camera:


The detail is wonderful ... here's a larger version ( http://siskiyou.railfan.net/images/CRW_9924_RJ.jpg ) and this is already resized quite a bit smaller from the 6.3 megapixel original.

Perfect photos, instantly, right out of the camera, with no special lighting requirements or a need to fiddle with it at all on the computer. I can see how the photos look instantly, and go reshoot if I have any issues. I can download the photos out of the camera and go reshoot some more, immediately, with no film cost or processing costs. With this level of control, I no longer have any use for film!

[Anonymous]

You did not say what type of camera you will be using - film or digital, but it doesn't matter that much. You might try getting some clear 250 Watt or 500 watt photoflood bulbs to temporarily put into your worklamps. Keep in mind these get really HOT and should probably only be used for short periods in the lamps which I assume are rated for much smaller bulbs.

If you use film, then you'll need an 80B filter to take the redness out of the light. If you use digital, then either adjust the camera to the light or correct it in the computer after.

Since you say the lights are suspended from the shed's rafters, bouncing flash will not be a good idea unless everything is painted white. A flat white ceiling is the best for bounce flash. But the light output from bounced flash is reduced and is not the best for model shots. And you can't see the results with a film camera to see if it is acceptable.

Use a tripod to ensure sharpness in the images, and use the smallest lens opening to get the greatest depth of sharpness - f/22 if you can.

I've been using film cameras for about 37 years now, and digital for about four years. I haven't used my film cameras for about a year now, much preferring my Canon digital SLR.

Shoot lots of photos and learn from your mistakes! [:D]

Bob Boudreau

[Wdlgln005]

Go to your favorite store lighting department. There's all kinds of new lightbulbs by GE & others that are supposed to give a more natural daylight. More expensive, but worth checking out is an OTT light florescent. They have one kind that would clamp onto your workbench or layout table. I really like the desk light i have over my computer. You may find them at your office supply store.

[tutaenui]

Best to forget your fixed layout lights as generally they will cast multi shadows and not provide any side light ( a bit Like taking prototype photos at midday). Flash mounted on camera is pretty useless as it will burn out the forground and provide inadaquate light for the distant part of the shot.
I use a cheap 300w photgraphic flood light mounted on a tripod which I can move round to provide sidelighting. You have to be a bit careful with placement to avoid unwanted reflections.
A digicam is useful for model photography as it provides greater depth of field than a 35mm camera.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tutaenui
[brA digicam is useful for model photography as it provides greater depth of field than a 35mm camera.

Whoo! Where did that come from??? A digital camera that stops down to f/8 will do better than a 35mm camera lens that will go to f/22? Not in my world anyway! Now a digital single lens reflex (DSLR) with a lens that will stop down to f/22 is a totally different matter. Been there, did that!

Bob Boudreau