Walthers Code 83 Turnouts and Riverossi & IHC Passenger Cars

[Anonymous]

Has anyone else experienced problems with Riverossi and IHC Passenger Cars going through the frogs of Walthers Code 83 Turnouts? Everyone of my passenger cars wants to derail on the frogs on every one of my #6 turnouts (left or right). Do I need to change wheelsets or what?

Thanks
Eric

[twhite]

Eric: If you've got older Rivarossi and IHC with the European flanges, you DEFINITELY have to change wheelsets for anything under code 100. I don't have any of the newer IHC, but I have some new Rivarossi/Walthers passenger cars, and they track very well. But for code 83, the wheels almost have to be rp-25, the NMRA standard for HO wheels. I've heard that it's tricky to change wheels on the older Rivarossi--you might ask some of the other guys here on the forum who've done it. Don Gibson might be a good contact.

[CP5415]

I have several older Rivarossi cars & with the advice of a freind, I easily switched the OEM axles with Proto 2000 33" axles without removing the trucks.
Just take the axles out of the truck, remove the brake shoes on the truck & install the Proto axles
After switching to the newer axles, I had no problems with the frogs of any of my turnouts afterward & the cars rolled a lot easier.

Gordon

[mondotrains]

Eric,
You lucked out! I've already done the research and have the answers you need. The best wheels to use are sold by Reboxx.

For IHC corrugated side and smooth side passenger cars or Rivarossi heavyweight passenger cars, you need to use 33" wheels, Reboxx number WS11015. For IHC heavyweight cars, you need 36" wheels, Reboxx number WS3-1015. Reboxx sells their wheels for $9.99 per a set of 12. They are metal, with metal axles, insulated on one side, which you definitely want. You will find them on the web.


I know it sounds crazy that you need 33" wheels for some cars and 36" wheels for others, but both Rivarossi and IHC have not done a good job of keeping up with standards.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

[johncolley]

Another thing to consider, but it involves cutting track....with full length passenger cars you should be using #8's or even preferably #10's. the benefit is much smoother running and a world better looking! I use 10's and my 14 car Empire Builder complete with diaphragms flows through the curves behind a pair of BLI E-7's.

[Anonymous]

Thanks to all that responded. It sounds like you all are confirming what I suspected. I need to change the wheelsets. As far as putting in #8 or # 10 turnouts, I have the realestate on other parts of my layout, but not where I am having problems. The cars actually flow well thru the #6 turnouts with the exception of the frog / wheel issue.
Once again, thanks for your advice!

Eric

[Anonymous]

DonGibson has some excellent coupler recommendations if you have not up graded as yet.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CP5415

I have several older Rivarossi cars & with the advice of a freind, I easily switched the OEM axles with Proto 2000 33" axles without removing the trucks.
Just take the axles out of the truck, remove the brake shoes on the truck & install the Proto axles
After switching to the newer axles, I had no problems with the frogs of any of my turnouts afterward & the cars rolled a lot easier. Gordon

Hello Gordon,

You can actually leave the brake shoes on if you're using the P2K 33" wheels, just bend them slightly. If you're switching over to 36" wheels, then the brake shoes will definetly be in the way. Since I want my Rivorossis to match my Walther's cars, I'm switching over to 36" P2K wheels. Since I'm not a "Rivet Counter" I don't mind losing the brake shoes.

[mondotrains]

Hi Antonio,
Just a cautionary note: You may find that if you install 36" wheels into Rivarossi heavyweight passenger cars, that the coupler height will be too high. That is why I've found that for these cars, I needed to install 33" wheels.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

QUOTE: Originally posted by CP5415

I have several older Rivarossi cars & with the advice of a freind, I easily switched the OEM axles with Proto 2000 33" axles without removing the trucks.
Just take the axles out of the truck, remove the brake shoes on the truck & install the Proto axles
After switching to the newer axles, I had no problems with the frogs of any of my turnouts afterward & the cars rolled a lot easier. Gordon

Hello Gordon,

You can actually leave the brake shoes on if you're using the P2K 33" wheels, just bend them slightly. If you're switching over to 36" wheels, then the brake shoes will definetly be in the way. Since I want my Rivorossis to match my Walther's cars, I'm switching over to 36" P2K wheels. Since I'm not a "Rivet Counter" I don't mind losing the brake shoes.

[AntonioFP45]

Hey Mondo

Thanks for the tip!

The reason I wi***o use 36" wheels is that basically I would like all of the passenger cars to be the same height. I experimented and took the 33" P2K wheels off of a freight car I just retired and turned into a "paint test scrapper." I installed the wheels on a Rivorossi streamliner. The couplers almost, but still don't line up as the Rivorossi is just a "shade" low. I may be wrong, but it looks like the 36" wheels I just got from IM may be helpful. If it doesn't work, I'll body mount the couplers as a last resort with the propers shims.

I may be the oddball here but truck mounted couplers don't bother me so much as long as my cars can make it around 22" radius curves. I was much pickier in the past, but with my time split between work and family I've been willing to compromise "here and there" as long as to me the trains look good and "clickety-clack" on the high iron with no derailments!

Peace and High Greens on your tracks! [C):-)][tup][swg][tup][swg][tup]

[Anonymous]

All passenger cars need 36 inch wheels. Period
Ch