Hey
I really don't seem to have too much trouble with dirty track but ever so often I run my track cleaner car. I didn't like the abrasive skid plate so I cut a piece of stretchy fabric off of a tee shirt collar (I think) wet it with alcohol and run it around the track. when enough of the patches get dirty I wash them in alcohol ready for reuse.
Cheep is good.
I wish I could get away without any track cleaning! I have a borrowed/test CMX car and will use alcohol. Besides a train room without windows, and being chemically sensitive to solvents anyway, I find the alcohol does a good job even with just a soft cotton cloth. I've seen too many melted ties etc. from lacquer thinners to make me comfortable with that method.
I own a CMX track cleaning car but haven't yet used my own, just my buddy's.
If you look in the archives for past posts on track cleaners, I think you'll see MANY positive reports for the CMX cleaning car. It aint cheap but it works well and if you have a fairly large layout, well worthwhile.
My layout is small 17 L. X 8ft. W and I'm glad to have it for tunnels and hidden track.
Jim
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
I built my own version of the Masonite drag pad car. However, instead of the usual rectangle of Masonite, I cut a rectangle from a piece 1/8" thick sheet aluminum. I added a slight upward bend to the front and rear edges of the aluminum rectangle and super-glued two roofing nails upside down on the top surface of the aluminum pad. I surfaced the bottom of the aluminum pad with a piece of Creatology Fun Foam (2 mm thick dense sheet foam). After drilling two matching holes through the floor of an HO scale 40' box car, I inserted the nails through the car floor and into a block of wood sized to fit inside the box car body. After reassembling the box car, my new track cleaning car was complete. A few drops of lacquer thinner applied to the Fun Foam pad surface and the car is ready to be pulled along the track by a pair of diesels. It works surprisingly well and cost very little. Yes, I need to re-apply the lacquer thinner a few times in order to clean my entire 10' by 20' double deck layout but my time is cheap. Once the track is completely clean, I just continue to run the drag pad car dry and let it dust and polish the rails. Wear on the Fun Foam drag pad has been minimal in a couple of year's use and an occasional scrubbing with a little alcohol on a paper towel is all that is needed to remove the two black streaks from the Fun Foam pad. I originally used alcohol to wet the drag pad but eventually found that I got better results using lacquer thinner.
Hornblower
Running DCC and not liking sound hiccups, I sprung for the CMX car and use denatured alcohol with it. My track is gleamed, my freight cars have metal wheelsets, and I clean the loco wheels occasionally by running over a alcohol wet paper towel piece (spinning the wheels). I wasn't getting as perfect performance as some report (an occasional dirty spot and sound hiccup), so I added a "John Allen track cleaning car", converting a box car to slide a masonite pad around.
I've been adding scenery lately so have not been operating and determining the reliability with the John Allen car added to the mix. The pad does pick up some dirt. The John Allen car project was pretty easy and fun to accomplish.
An Update: Being at a stage between scenery (hills, tunnel entrances, etc) segments, I decided to clean up a bit (this is a 5' x 10' or so layout) by vacuuming exposed track, then put my GP9 / RS2 consist in action pulling the masonite pad car followed by the CMX with denatured alcohol. The locos ran just fine (no hiccups) despite the dust and whatever else I've managed to do to foul the rails. I haven't examined the loco wheels to see how fouled they might be, but I presume they are within the usual "spin the wheels on the alcohol wet paper towel piece" range.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
CMX here!
Bob,
I can attest to that also,have used it in spots. But I don't run trains that often,so dust is usually my problem,from just being idle.
Cheers,
Frank
Metal Polish the Rails with Metal Polish and NOT have to clean the Track again.
I did mine in 2003 and STILL Waiting for the need to CLEAN the Track
I have been holding OPs Session every 2 weeks - the SOUND Engines never miss a beat due to dirty track
I use a mix of Plastic & Metal wheels YET! STILL NO Problems with dirty Track!
And I DO NOT have to use a Track Drag either - Just turn on hte layout and RUN!
Can't get any better than that!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
OK, I'm laughing. Not because of the question so much as that this weekend I started the layout up again and had no problems with rail cleaning. I was going to post something about it but didn't want everyone criticizing each other over the various ways that work. However since this is part of this question and I"ve got several different rail cleaning cars including those mentioned let me just offer my experience over the last 2 1/2years out of 25 years of running trains. My layout is usually not used during the warmer months for about 6 months of the year. I also vacuum the layout and rail before applying since so much dust has accumulated on everything.
1. I went to using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF(automatic transmission fluid) about 2 1/2 years ago and it has made a world of difference vs many other attempts, including gleaming, various cars, etc.
2. I just apply it with a finger for about a foot every 30 to 40 feet of rail and let the train spread it around. I know it sounds crazy and should collect dust and build up. And it may a little, but I have just ran a rag over the rails once a year and no problems. Others who use this technique say they don't need to wipe, but I can't help myself but wipe them.
3. You can spread the ATF with various good cleaning cars too, but too much makes you loose some traction.
Richard
I also use,in this order, Centerline, Masonite drag car and CMX tanker,with Lacquer thinner and one BB SD 40-2,to pull it,works just fine.
The CMX is a very good product. I also use the lacquer thinner and it does great job.
The one downside I've found in using lacquer thinner: If you have plastic insulators or guides on your crossings or turnouts, the lacquer thinner softens them. I've found this to be the case - even when using the manufacturer's recommended drip rate. Lacquer thinner is pretty smelly, too.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Wig,
I have not seen too many track cleaning cars that work great and are inexpensive. I suspect you want something that will magically clean your track - Not going to happen. I have purchased at least 3 track cleaning cars:
Ulrich metal & wood 'kit' - It had a tank that dripped track cleaning fluid on the tracks(sorta).
Centerline - Actually worked(except for backing up) and the roller sleeve needs to to be replaced many times before I completed the track cleaning. Price is about $70 - $90.
CMX - A friend bought one and 'loaned' it to me. It has a tank and a rather precise drip control to a replaceable corduroy pad that rubs on the track. You need two HO locomotive to push/pull it! He suggested using lacquer thinner in it. I tried it and after three passes around the layout - it was clean. I spent an entire Saturday evening running the car around every siding/spur I could reach with the car. Bad news - it costs over $100...
I eventually purchased a CMX when it happened to be on sale for about $90. I use corduroy material purchased from the local fabric store. After some scenery work, I may need to use a 'Brite Boy' and vacuum, but the CMX generally does the trick. Many folks use isopropyl alcohol rather than lacquer thinner, but it does not seem to cut as good as lacquer thinner - just takes longer. Our club has one of these, and we have up to 3 of these running around the layout about one every 4-6 weeks.
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Simple question:
Without spending a FORTUNE, what are the best track cleaning cars available that actually work well?
Wig