I would imagine he hooked the lights up to the decoder, not the Athearn board.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Mark R. Surface mount LEDs are a great idea, but you still need to provide a lens. If you're not into home-brewing your own installation, these work great .... http://store.sbs4dcc.com/SBS4DCC4-pkHOScaleAthearnHeadlightLEDAssembly-WarmWhite.aspx As for why there are two pairs of the wires, there are two bulbs, each with their own pair of wires - you'll have the same thing with your LED replacements .... don't forget the resistor ! Mark.
Surface mount LEDs are a great idea, but you still need to provide a lens. If you're not into home-brewing your own installation, these work great ....
http://store.sbs4dcc.com/SBS4DCC4-pkHOScaleAthearnHeadlightLEDAssembly-WarmWhite.aspx
As for why there are two pairs of the wires, there are two bulbs, each with their own pair of wires - you'll have the same thing with your LED replacements .... don't forget the resistor !
Mark.
The LEDs you cite operate on 3.2 volts, according to the link. Athearn Genesis lights operate on 1.5 volts. Am I missing something?
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Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
trainfantir Hi, I recently bought an Athearn SD70MAC engine.Just ran for 2 days and the headlights and ditch lights went out. Took it to Athearn train service center and after 2 weeks of waiting they replaced the bulbs as it was within warranty. Now, since I brought it back, it ran for couple of days and again one of the headlights went out. At this point, I really do not know what to do. i am very frustrated with the Athearn Genesis engines. They are supposed to be of good quality. I never expected this and I do not know what to do. Any help from the forum or suggestions will help. Also I would like to escalate this issue to Athearn. Does anyone know if there is an email or number that I can use? Thanks.
Hi,
I recently bought an Athearn SD70MAC engine.Just ran for 2 days and the headlights and ditch lights went out. Took it to Athearn train service center and after 2 weeks of waiting they replaced the bulbs as it was within warranty. Now, since I brought it back, it ran for couple of days and again one of the headlights went out.
At this point, I really do not know what to do. i am very frustrated with the Athearn Genesis engines. They are supposed to be of good quality. I never expected this and I do not know what to do.
Any help from the forum or suggestions will help. Also I would like to escalate this issue to Athearn. Does anyone know if there is an email or number that I can use?
Thanks.
Are you running DCC or DC, and what is your track voltage? Also to the forums. Also I would recommend starting your own topic. More people will notice it that way. Tell us what power supply (DC) or DCC system you are using.
Some people refuse to buy Genesis due to the head lights but I think that is cutting off ones nose to spite their face since Genesis diesels are also a standard by which we measure many HO diesels too - they are quite good but perfect? No.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Check the voltage on your rails - I'm willing to bet that it is on the high side to what it should be .... it should be right around 14 to 14.5 volts AC.
While there are regulators on the Athearn board to run the 1.5 volt bulbs, if the input voltage is high, these regulator will put out a slightly higher voltage. Even a 1/4 volt higher on a 1.5 volt bulb is enough to stress it.
I know a number of people who keep their track voltage between 13 and 14 volts and have been running the Athearn bulbs for years. They are only 15ma rated bulbs, so don't take even a bit of over-voltage to easily stress them.
If you don't want to lower your track voltage and still want to use bulbs, use the Miniatronics 20ma ones, they are a bit more tolerant.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
From Streamlined Backshop Services I received the SBS4DCC Athearn Headlight LED Assembly. This is the conversion set recommended earlier by Mark R and contains 4-surface mount LEDs with integral lens. Also included are four 1K ohm 1/4 W resistors. The LEDs are rated at 3.2 fV at 20 mA. The red wire of each LED is connected to its anode and the black wire to its cathode. I downloaded a set of instructions from the SBS website which states that the resistor should be connected to the cathode. Just out of curiosity, before I began the conversion I measured across the Athearn light output terminals with my DVM and found it to be 1.4 VDC.
Each LED is supposed to have a 1K ohm resistor connected to its cathode but to save space and components I decided to use a single 470 ohm 1/4 W resistor in series with both cathodes of the two front headlight LEDs. If you double the current flowing through a 470 ohm resistor, its IR drop is ~ the same as that through a 1K ohm resistor with 1/2 the current flowing through it, thus providing the requisite current limitation to protect the LED. However, since the wattage dissipated through a resistor is I squared R, doubling the current flow through it can exceed its wattage rating. In this case it's not a problem as the 470 ohm resistor remained cool to the touch when the two headlight bulbs were illuminated.
I mounted the resistor on the Athearn light board using thin double sided tape. I connected a lead from the negative light output terminal on the board to one end of the resistor and the two black (cathode) leads from the LEDs to the other end. The two red (anode) leads from the LEDs were connected to the positive common light output terminal on the board. All connections were soldered rather than using Athearn's wire locks. With the wires and LEDs just hanging there, I placed the unit on the tracks and, lo and behold, the headlights illuminated. Very nice. Then, it was back to the workbench where I removed the Athearn front incandescent bulbs. Following the website instructions, I drilled out the Athearn openings with a #51 drill bit but found that size not large enough to insert the LEDs. I ended up using a #49 drill bit which was just right. Then, I mated the body to the chassis, installed the Kadee scale couplers and placed the unit on my layout.
As mentioned earlier, the two units will be permanently consisted back-to-back so the rear headlights will be disconnected and the second pair of LEDs will be installed in the front of the second unit so one conversion package will suffice for both units.
Well, it was a bit of work but I like the results and it's good to know that these LEDs will have a long life obviating frequent incandescent bulb replacement and the annoyance that entails. Highly recommended.
Thanks for the update.
Continue to keep us posted on your progress.
Rich
Alton Junction
I have to admit that I was a bit put off after discovering that one of my premium Genesis units was defective and had some missing parts. However, I just received my Lenz Silver Direct decoders and after removing the OEM plugs and installing the former I have to report that both units run beautifully on DCC. Before installing the decoders I had tested the locomotives on my layout by setting the throttle address to 0000 and noted that one unit ran faster than the other at the same throttle setting. Since I intend to permanently consist the two units, I figured that I'd have to do some CV adjustment to equalize their speeds. However, once the decoders were installed, the two units, uncoupled, ran at equal speeds in both directions. Very nice and it saves me some work. BTW, when I set up a permanent consist, I just assign the same address for both units taken from the road number of one of the locomotives. I find that easier than going through the normal consist procedure.
The bodies are just resting on the chassis, not yet snapped down in place. I'm waiting for the Athearn LED Headlight Assembly from Streamlined Backshop to arrive so I can replace the incandescent bulbs. After I accomplish that task I'll let you know how everything worked out. I'll also remove the wire locks and solder the wires in place on the board.
Thank you all for the information. When I install my decoders I'll also remove the wire locks and solder the wires directly to the lugs. I'm glad the 2-pairs of headlight wires question is cleared up - I didn't realize that there are 4-headlight bulbs total. At some point, I'll also install the surface mount LEDs assembly that Mark R recommends as it comes complete with the lens already installed.
On my Athearn Genesis F7A units, I grew tired of the incandescent bulbs flickering and burning out.
So I recently replaced them with surface mount Golden White LEDs from Richmond Controls which I purchased through Ulrich Models. Positively awesome. Here is a link:
http://www.ulrichmodels.biz/servlet/the-350/Miniature-Surface-Mount-LEDs/Detail
While you had it opened up, you should have soldered all the wire connections to the circuit board. Those plastic clips slip off quite easily. Some models even use them to hold the pickup wires to the trucks, which is a very poor assembly practice.
I think the factories in China all use those plastic clips so they can avoid environmental regulations about employees handling hot solder, which contains lead. It also is cheap from the standpoint that less equipment is necessary, thereby reducing floor space and employees.
Athearn's cheaply made bulbs have been a source of complaints for several years, but they don't seem to care about what the customers want.
.As long as Athearn can keep selling replacement bulbs and the end users replace them instead of sending the defective items back to Athearn and asking for a refund, nothing will change.
I just purchased two Athearn Genesis MEC GP7s, #567 & #569, without sound. My layout uses DCC but I placed both units on the track to check out their operation before installing decoders using throttle address 0000. The front (short hood) headlight of # 569 did not turn on although the other lights illuminated on both units. I removed the body shells of both units and discovered that the 2-pairs of headlight wires attached to the front bulb were not attached to the PCB but just hanging free. Using the wiring of #567 as a guide, it was apparent that the two pairs of wires hanging free should have been attached to the two inner terminals of the front of the PCB. Athearn uses what they call wire locks to secure wire ends to the PCB terminals and these also were missing. Fortunately, I have spare wire locks and so was able to attach the headlight wires which restored proper light function. Considering these are Genesis models, I was surprised that one of the units was faulty and even missing parts.
I replaced the Athearn couplers with Kadees and will be installing two Lenz Silver Direct decoders which I ordered on line. I don't use sound in my locomotives but that's a discussion for another topic.
I really dislike the fact that Athearn uses incandescent bulbs instead of LEDs and would like to replace them with golden white LEDS which I've installed in other locomotive models. However, I'm not sure how to do this here. I don't understand why there are 2-pairs of headlight wires going to each headlight, either, when seemingly two single wires should suffice. After installing a decoder, I'd like to switch to LEDs. Any suggestions to accomplish this in this model would be very appreciated.