Get some snot, and watch videos on youtube in the meantime...there are a few that show how to apply it.
It's like anything else, unfortunately...not so easy the first time. It is easy to cut it free of the tire, though, and you can keep practicing until it goes on smoothly. And as Lion said, smooth is very important.
Basically, you invert the loco and secure it, say with a tea towel to protect it and to keep it from rolling over, place clips with wires on the tender wheels, and apply power. Let the drivers spin up to medium speed and then use a toothpick to apply a bead of the snot. Keep the drivers spinning for a few minutes to keep the snot an equal depth while it solidifies enough to remove power to the loco, say after five minutes or so.
This may sound complicated and daunting, but you'll soon realize that it's not such a big deal, and you'll really love the snot...it does a great job.
Crandell
okeedokie then it is probably bullfrog snot that you will have to use.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
And the answer is, no, there are no traction tires.
Richard
The first run of the Life-Like 2 8 8 2 did not come with traction tires. The later run did. Yes some Bullfrog Snot will help to add traction to yours. If you remove the engine shell there is room to add weight inside and into the domes of the shell. This will also help.
Bob
on the drive wheels check to see a rubber band-ish looking thing that goes all the way around the drive wheel(s) it should be darker in color than the wheel itself.
Burlington Northern #24 . . .are there traction tires on the drive wheels of that locomotive or is it straight wheel to rail?
. . .are there traction tires on the drive wheels of that locomotive or is it straight wheel to rail?
I am too new to know. I wouldn't know what to look for.
If your loco is DCC with sound, try F44. That's 'sand'.
well, I was remembering your post about car #'s when you said Ore cars.
it's probably spring driven, I had a LL GP38-2 that could pull but the spring drive system was very innefficient and once the maximum amount was exceeded it wasn't much use after that. hmmmmm, are there traction tires on the drive wheels of that locomotive or is it straight wheel to rail?
Burlington Northern #24. . .I have cars made by atlas as well with their plastic wheels still on. I've noticed that these wheels do create a bit of drag because they some times don't fit as snugly as they should. . .
Hah! How did you know they were Atlas ore cars? I think that is step one, to replace the wheels. This is the first group of Atlas rolling stock I have added to the collection. Everything else is either Kato or Micro-Trains. I did notice that the Atlas cars were a little sluggish when I rolled them onto the track. After I replace the wheels, I will try weighting the locomotive.
Burlington Northern #24. . .As for your steamer what make is it?. . .
It is a older Life-Like 2-8-8-2 locomotive. I have replaced the couplers on the locomotive with Micro-Train couplers since this picture was taken.
hold up on the truck tuner it's in HO, RIde on road I have cars made by atlas as well with their plastic wheels still on. I've noticed that these wheels do create a bit of drag because they some times don't fit as snugly as they should. I have yet to get FVM metal wheels or anyother metal ones so I can't tell you to switch to those. What I can do is recommend Micro train line wheels and/or trucks eventually the Atlas accumates will wear out. some of my cars are showing this fatigue and their couplers aren't resetting properly. If you want to you could switch to MTL trucks which come with their couplers.
As for your steamer what make is it?
I haven't stress tested my 4-8-2, but it should be able to handle about that much with no problems. what's the wheel arrangement on your steamer?
Richard.
I try to add weight to all my locos. On my steamers I try to balance the weight between the drivers evenly. For example I will take a 2-8-2 and balance the two center drivers on a dowel and add weight to the front and rear to keep it centered. On a 0-6-0 a flat pad under the center driver will balance it. It does not take very much weight to improve traction. My Spectrum K4s Pacific went from spinning its wheels with 3 HW cars to pulling 7 HW cars up the grade and even starting this train on the hill with only 2 ounces of weight added.
I also shorten or remove completely the springs on lead and trailing trucks to add more locomotive weight on the drivers.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
MisterBeasleyAnd then, there's "Bullfrog Snot." That's the name of the product. You apply it to any wheel, and it spreads itself around like a traction tire. I've never tried it, but some people say it does the job. I'd like to hear some firsthand experiences, if anyone uses it.
LION has used it with good to sad results. If you apply it correctly it is PERFECT (asuming that other wheels can collect power.) If you apply it badly the locomotive will wobble and fall off of the tracks.
Fortunately that little bottle of snot will last you a lifetime even if you have 1000 engines, and it is easy enough to cut off again. So you try, try again until you get a result approaching perfect.
FROG says: "Time's FUN when you are having flies."
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Several options are availble. First, how well do the ore cars roll? I have a bunch of hoppers with old plastic wheels. It takes 2 GP9s to pull a train of them. I've got new trucks with metal wheelsets on order to reduce rolling friction. Metal wheels and a Micro-Mark Truck Tuner are the key.
Since your layout is flat, adding some weight to your engine won't trouble it, but it will give it more traction. Ideally, you want the weight over the drivers, or balanced so the force ends up where the wheels are and not too far forward or back.
For some engines, you can replace the drive wheels with "traction tires." These are wheels with a thin groove in them. The groove gets a rubber O-ring, vastly improving traction. Traction tires will greatly reduce electrical pickup, though, so they're not advised for engines with few pickup wheels.
And then, there's "Bullfrog Snot." That's the name of the product. You apply it to any wheel, and it spreads itself around like a traction tire. I've never tried it, but some people say it does the job. I'd like to hear some firsthand experiences, if anyone uses it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I did a little forum searching but couldn't find an answer, so I will ask. My steam locomotive seems to have a little bit of a traction problem. I gave it 15 ore cars and a caboose to pull and it does mostly okay, but occasionally the wheels lose traction, especially when pushing the cars. (The layout is flat -- no inclines.) Am I out of luck or are there traction tricks I don't know about?