What color blue did you use?
willjayna Hey everyone, I wanted to share this project with you all by showing the process and progress that I have made on this build. I was really wanting to sink my teeth into a engine kitbash but wasn't quite sure what to make and then I came across a truly beautiful engine seen here. Pretty nice right. Well here is what I started with to make this build happen. A standard cab Proto 2000 SD60 UP and 6 railpower 3 window cabs. I wasn't sure how many I would need so its better to have too much than too little. Plus I plan on doing a couple of these builds also. Here is a picture of the railpwer 60 cab. Ok first step is to flatten the front of the cab and then cut out the three window section as this will be a two window cab. Next I used styrene sheets to fill in the front gap and then created the bottom part of the window overhang. Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang. I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will Will, I was wondering how much you would charge to build me a SD60E painted as the 6920?
Hey everyone,
I wanted to share this project with you all by showing the process and progress that I have made on this build. I was really wanting to sink my teeth into a engine kitbash but wasn't quite sure what to make and then I came across a truly beautiful engine seen here.
Pretty nice right. Well here is what I started with to make this build happen. A standard cab Proto 2000 SD60 UP and 6 railpower 3 window cabs. I wasn't sure how many I would need so its better to have too much than too little. Plus I plan on doing a couple of these builds also.
Here is a picture of the railpwer 60 cab.
Ok first step is to flatten the front of the cab and then cut out the three window section as this will be a two window cab.
Next I used styrene sheets to fill in the front gap and then created the bottom part of the window overhang.
Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang.
I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity.
Side view
The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang.
I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges.
Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out.
And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint.
Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed.
Will
Will,
I was wondering how much you would charge to build me a SD60E painted as the 6920?
Wow ! Beautiful job!
Where does the line start for more?
Karl
NCE über alles!
Top notch job ! She looks awesome.
Happy modeling.
Don.
"Ladies and gentlemen, I have some good news and some bad news. The bad news is that both engines have failed, and we will be stuck here for some time. The good news is that you decided to take the train and not fly."
That. Is. Amazing!
Modelling HO Scale with a focus on the West and Midwest USA
Its been quite a while since my last post and in the meantime I did get closer to finishing this project. My intention is to add tsunami sound to it when completed but there is still body work that needs to be completed.
That said I did get the front grab irons and handrails on along with the cut lever, plow and mu cables. I also installed both the long and short sinclair antennas, sun shade and windows. I then completed the ribbons on both sides and on the top. Here is the latest shot of the conductor side.
Here is the now completed engineer's side of the long hood complete with handrails, decals, wind deflectors and all previous add ons mentioned. Here is a shot of the top of the engine which shows how the ribbons are connected and the top detail on the long hood. One more side shot I did get the other side completely done today which I will post pictures of it in the next few days. I still have to complete the rear number boards, install the rear handrail and do some minor paint touch ups. After the shell is completely done I will install the tsunami decoder and wire it back together and enjoy. Stay tuned for final pics coming soon. Will
Here is the now completed engineer's side of the long hood complete with handrails, decals, wind deflectors and all previous add ons mentioned.
Here is a shot of the top of the engine which shows how the ribbons are connected and the top detail on the long hood. One more side shot I did get the other side completely done today which I will post pictures of it in the next few days. I still have to complete the rear number boards, install the rear handrail and do some minor paint touch ups. After the shell is completely done I will install the tsunami decoder and wire it back together and enjoy. Stay tuned for final pics coming soon. Will
Here is a shot of the top of the engine which shows how the ribbons are connected and the top detail on the long hood.
One more side shot I did get the other side completely done today which I will post pictures of it in the next few days. I still have to complete the rear number boards, install the rear handrail and do some minor paint touch ups. After the shell is completely done I will install the tsunami decoder and wire it back together and enjoy. Stay tuned for final pics coming soon. Will
One more side shot
I did get the other side completely done today which I will post pictures of it in the next few days. I still have to complete the rear number boards, install the rear handrail and do some minor paint touch ups. After the shell is completely done I will install the tsunami decoder and wire it back together and enjoy. Stay tuned for final pics coming soon. Will
I did get the other side completely done today which I will post pictures of it in the next few days. I still have to complete the rear number boards, install the rear handrail and do some minor paint touch ups. After the shell is completely done I will install the tsunami decoder and wire it back together and enjoy.
Stay tuned for final pics coming soon.
Hi folks,
Its been a while since my last post on this project. I have managed to get some things done on this engine. One of the delays was caused by the ribbons. I first tried to paint them on and that didn't work so I had to strip the long hood and start all over.
I then came up with a solution. Microscale trim film. I used trim film to create both the white and red ribbons and also used it to color the cab roof and the front of the frame. This would ensure that all colors would match. Here is what she looks like now.
I next tackled the yellow ribbon by using a template I created. I used the template to paint the ribbon on (modelstrainstuff was out of yellow trim film). After painting the ribbon on I then put on the lettering over top. The last big decal on this side was the NS Horsehead logo. For this decal I cut out the logo out from a sheet of Microscale's norfolk southern modern diesel N scale decal sheet. I have had this N scale sheet forever due to an ordering snafu by me and never thought I would actually use them. Here is a side view. I still have to do the other side which will be a bit more of a challenge because of the blower housing. I'll post pics of when its done. Thanks for viewing Will
I next tackled the yellow ribbon by using a template I created. I used the template to paint the ribbon on (modelstrainstuff was out of yellow trim film). After painting the ribbon on I then put on the lettering over top. The last big decal on this side was the NS Horsehead logo. For this decal I cut out the logo out from a sheet of Microscale's norfolk southern modern diesel N scale decal sheet. I have had this N scale sheet forever due to an ordering snafu by me and never thought I would actually use them.
Here is a side view.
I still have to do the other side which will be a bit more of a challenge because of the blower housing. I'll post pics of when its done. Thanks for viewing Will
I still have to do the other side which will be a bit more of a challenge because of the blower housing. I'll post pics of when its done.
Thanks for viewing
NS 6920 pulling a "RoadRailer" near Lafayette IN last year. This pic was taken by a friend that is an NS Signal Maintainer in that area.
Looks like you are doing a great job of duplicating it.
Bill Tidler Jr.
Near a cornfield in Indiana...
I did manage to get some work done this past weekend on this project. I got the cab painted and started to hand sketch the template for the white and red ribbons that will go onto the side of the long hood.
I then started the template on the other side of the long hood and got the cab decals a good bit done. One thing that was worrying me is the fan shroud for the dynamic brake that I didn't have. The fan is similar to the ones used on first generation diesel engines so I finally located this one beside the cab for only 3 bucks. It originally was for a GP7. I finished the main part of the paint job on the frame and long hood and then installed the dynamic brake fan shroud above the blower housing. Project is progressing nicely, next up is applying the red, white and yellow ribbons and putting the decals on the long hood. Until next time. Will
I then started the template on the other side of the long hood and got the cab decals a good bit done. One thing that was worrying me is the fan shroud for the dynamic brake that I didn't have. The fan is similar to the ones used on first generation diesel engines so I finally located this one beside the cab for only 3 bucks. It originally was for a GP7.
I finished the main part of the paint job on the frame and long hood and then installed the dynamic brake fan shroud above the blower housing. Project is progressing nicely, next up is applying the red, white and yellow ribbons and putting the decals on the long hood. Until next time. Will
I finished the main part of the paint job on the frame and long hood and then installed the dynamic brake fan shroud above the blower housing.
Project is progressing nicely, next up is applying the red, white and yellow ribbons and putting the decals on the long hood. Until next time. Will
Project is progressing nicely, next up is applying the red, white and yellow ribbons and putting the decals on the long hood. Until next time.
Your project is coming along very nice!! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
I agree with everyone Will, great project, and your work is looking great as well! You should wander over to The Diesel Detailer site, and show the group what your up to !
Mike.
My You Tube
Looking Good Will,
Make sure you keep posting pics of your progress.
Derek
tallcapt Will, Looks great...Is this going to be for your collection or destined for Ebay? Nice job
Looks great...Is this going to be for your collection or destined for Ebay? Nice job
This one will most likely be for my personal collection but I do intend on making more which will go up for sale either on-line or for someone who hires me to build them one.
Well I was able to get a bit more work done last night on this project. I first took off the sunshades because I had them a bit too low and looked well dumb. I then filled in the holes with putty and got busy installing 5 of the 9 cab grab irons. The other 4 will be down the right front side of the cab and will be installed after paint and decals are on. I also filled in the hole around the headlight and added the 2 sand filler hatches along with sprucing up the front door.
Next I worked on widening the back of the cab so it would slide down the guide on the front of the long hood which secured the cab in place. I also did some cutting and fabrication to the frame and this is how is looked before the long hood and frame headed into the stripping tank. After stripping the paint, I did some putty touch ups and sent the whole unit off to the primer booth. Later this evening I plan on having the cab painted and will start fabricating the new dynamic braking grills. Until next time. Will
Next I worked on widening the back of the cab so it would slide down the guide on the front of the long hood which secured the cab in place. I also did some cutting and fabrication to the frame and this is how is looked before the long hood and frame headed into the stripping tank.
After stripping the paint, I did some putty touch ups and sent the whole unit off to the primer booth. Later this evening I plan on having the cab painted and will start fabricating the new dynamic braking grills. Until next time. Will
After stripping the paint, I did some putty touch ups and sent the whole unit off to the primer booth.
Later this evening I plan on having the cab painted and will start fabricating the new dynamic braking grills. Until next time. Will
Later this evening I plan on having the cab painted and will start fabricating the new dynamic braking grills. Until next time.
Wow, that is an AWESOME paint scheme and a worthy project! Nice work so far...please keep us posted!
Pretty nice right. Well here is what I started with to make this build happen. A standard cab Proto 2000 SD60 UP and 6 railpower 3 window cabs. I wasn't sure how many I would need so its better to have too much than too little. Plus I plan on doing a couple of these builds also. Here is a picture of the railpwer 60 cab. Ok first step is to flatten the front of the cab and then cut out the three window section as this will be a two window cab. Next I used styrene sheets to fill in the front gap and then created the bottom part of the window overhang. Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang. I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
Here is a picture of the railpwer 60 cab. Ok first step is to flatten the front of the cab and then cut out the three window section as this will be a two window cab. Next I used styrene sheets to fill in the front gap and then created the bottom part of the window overhang. Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang. I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
Ok first step is to flatten the front of the cab and then cut out the three window section as this will be a two window cab. Next I used styrene sheets to fill in the front gap and then created the bottom part of the window overhang. Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang. I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
Next I used styrene sheets to fill in the front gap and then created the bottom part of the window overhang. Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang. I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
Then I created the new window bezels and put on the first of three styrene layers to form the top of the cab and overhang. I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
I then put two more layers on the top with the final layer being a uniform piece and then bending the piece of styrene over the previous two layers. I then added some shims to keep the bottom part of the overhang straight and provide some rigidity. Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
Side view The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
The next step was cutting out the hole and mounting the mars headlight to the front fascia and drilling the headlight out for the bulbs. I then mounted the front fascia to seal in the overhang. I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
I then tried to fill in and sand some rough putty spots and created the cab door and hinges. Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
Next i applied the testors putty to any area with exposed gaps and areas that needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out. And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will
And so that is where I am currently at. I still need to smooth out my putty areas some more and add the number boards. After that she will be ready for primer and paint. Hope you all enjoy and stay tuned for additional pictures as steps are completed. Will