I have owned my Bachmann gas electric car (doodlebug) for several years. It was converted to DCC a year or so ago with Digitrax DH123 decoder. The doodlebug was DCC ready with an 8 pin plug, and it was not too hard to install the DCC after finally figuring out how to remove the shell. My doodlebug is weathered. Its window shades are made from common masking tape.
In recent months, the axle gears cracked. Bachmann Parts Department did not have the parts needed to repair in stock. Their catalog included a complete power truck assembly, but it remained out of stock for months. I did not like the flimsy Bachmann mechanism anyhow, and decided to order the NWSL repower kit. It took a few weeks for NWSL to deliver my kit, but it was worth the wait.
Below is the unopened kit with the model.
Below is the opened kit. It includes a Stanton powered truck, a Stanton unpowered truck, hardware, and very good instructions: (Select "Oldest to Newest" for thread order.)
Below is the opened kit. It includes a Stanton powered truck, a Stanton unpowered truck, hardware, and very good instructions:
(Select "Oldest to Newest" for thread order.)
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Here is how to remove the shells. The inner shell is clear plastic and it has holes. Lugs in the metal frame fit in those holes. ..... Use 4 toothpicks to hold the clear plastic and the outer shell away from the frame. .... Use a screw driver to pry the rear end. The shells will easily come off of the frame this way.
Next, remove all parts except for bulkheads and crew members. Drill hole as instructed. Directions called for a 2.2 mm drill bit, and I had none in my workshop. A number 43 was very close, and it worked fine. ..... Install the aluminum spacer as instructed. I tightened it onto the power truck with washers to keep the cylinder properly aligned. .... The coupler mounts are removed as instructed. In this photo, you can see the power truck is installed on the front end with a screw and washers. .... Next, I decided not to install the unpowered Stanton truck in the rear. The original rear truck looks okay and has the wires to pick up power from the track. Installing the new unpowered truck would require more work with no additional benefits. The original power truck and the unused new dummy truck are in the upper right. .... I installed the original truck after breaking off part of the crank used to pivot the coupler box. One pice of the crank mechanism is needed to screw the original truck in place. ..... I used super glue to hold the coupler box in place. My doodlebug will rarely be coupled to other railcars.
Next, remove all parts except for bulkheads and crew members.
Drill hole as instructed. Directions called for a 2.2 mm drill bit, and I had none in my workshop. A number 43 was very close, and it worked fine. ..... Install the aluminum spacer as instructed. I tightened it onto the power truck with washers to keep the cylinder properly aligned. .... The coupler mounts are removed as instructed. In this photo, you can see the power truck is installed on the front end with a screw and washers. .... Next, I decided not to install the unpowered Stanton truck in the rear. The original rear truck looks okay and has the wires to pick up power from the track. Installing the new unpowered truck would require more work with no additional benefits. The original power truck and the unused new dummy truck are in the upper right. .... I installed the original truck after breaking off part of the crank used to pivot the coupler box. One pice of the crank mechanism is needed to screw the original truck in place. ..... I used super glue to hold the coupler box in place. My doodlebug will rarely be coupled to other railcars.
Drill hole as instructed. Directions called for a 2.2 mm drill bit, and I had none in my workshop. A number 43 was very close, and it worked fine. ..... Install the aluminum spacer as instructed. I tightened it onto the power truck with washers to keep the cylinder properly aligned. .... The coupler mounts are removed as instructed.
In this photo, you can see the power truck is installed on the front end with a screw and washers. .... Next, I decided not to install the unpowered Stanton truck in the rear. The original rear truck looks okay and has the wires to pick up power from the track. Installing the new unpowered truck would require more work with no additional benefits. The original power truck and the unused new dummy truck are in the upper right. .... I installed the original truck after breaking off part of the crank used to pivot the coupler box. One pice of the crank mechanism is needed to screw the original truck in place. ..... I used super glue to hold the coupler box in place. My doodlebug will rarely be coupled to other railcars.
In the last photo, you can see a backup light is mounted on the roof of the rear of the doodlebug. Burlington doodlebugs had backup lights which looked like back up lights on a steam locomotive tender. I had an extra Cal Scale tender light in my workshop, and decided to use it. I drilled it to fit a light bulb. It is super glued to the roof.
Next photo shows the wiring. I decided to avoid excessive rewiring. As I said, the decoder is installed in a DCC Ready model. I retained the circuit board. I did clip the gray and orange wires from the decoder's plug, and soldered them directly to the gray and orange wires on the Stanton power truck. The red and black wires follow normal DCC practices for picking up current from the rails. The lights are wired according to normal DCC practices. (The decoder is on the back side of the circuit board and not in the view.)
The following photo shows the completed model from the bottom.
In this photo the model is back in service. It is on the branch line where it meets the main line.
Below is the final photo. The back up light allows the doodlebug to run back up the branch line without turning its direction. Comments: The project was much easier than I expected, and I suggest other modelers do this if they have poor performing Bachmann Doodlebugs. I would suggest to NWSL they make kits without the unpowered Stanton truck. it is not needed and adds to the cost of the kit. Without it, NWSL could likely sell these kits for lower prices which has advantages for both buyer and seller. I would suggest Bachmann make better quality mechanisms for any future doodlebugs they might produce. I suspect, they could buy Stanton drives to install in Doodlebugs at Bahmann's factory with not much more cost. .... I also suggest to Bachmann, they keep parts in stock as needed by their customers. The model runs very smoothly and quietly! ........... Everybody: Happy Model Railroading!
Below is the final photo. The back up light allows the doodlebug to run back up the branch line without turning its direction.
Comments: The project was much easier than I expected, and I suggest other modelers do this if they have poor performing Bachmann Doodlebugs. I would suggest to NWSL they make kits without the unpowered Stanton truck. it is not needed and adds to the cost of the kit. Without it, NWSL could likely sell these kits for lower prices which has advantages for both buyer and seller. I would suggest Bachmann make better quality mechanisms for any future doodlebugs they might produce. I suspect, they could buy Stanton drives to install in Doodlebugs at Bahmann's factory with not much more cost. .... I also suggest to Bachmann, they keep parts in stock as needed by their customers. The model runs very smoothly and quietly! ........... Everybody: Happy Model Railroading!
Comments:
The project was much easier than I expected, and I suggest other modelers do this if they have poor performing Bachmann Doodlebugs.
I would suggest to NWSL they make kits without the unpowered Stanton truck. it is not needed and adds to the cost of the kit. Without it, NWSL could likely sell these kits for lower prices which has advantages for both buyer and seller.
I would suggest Bachmann make better quality mechanisms for any future doodlebugs they might produce. I suspect, they could buy Stanton drives to install in Doodlebugs at Bahmann's factory with not much more cost. .... I also suggest to Bachmann, they keep parts in stock as needed by their customers.
The model runs very smoothly and quietly!
...........
Everybody: Happy Model Railroading!
Gary,
Nice work illustrating a very useful mod for all those with Doodlebugs needing an upgrade. And an interesting report on the Stanton.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
That's a very clear and helpful walkthrough, Garry. Much appreciated.
Mike
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
Great job on the tutorial, Garry! Only downer I see is that the re-power unit costs more than the doodlebug did originally. Mine has the dreaded cracked gear. (Haven't even opened it to look at it. I can tell just watching and hearing it.) I'll probably get one anyway, but it's annoying.... Nice job on the conversion, though, and I love that backup light.
---
Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
===================================
"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
Great tutorial, Garry! I have several of these Doodlebugs. I haven't had the gear issue yet, but this will be very useful if I ever do. Thanks!
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Nice job on the breakdown and mod's. This thread is being added to my bookmarks. Thanks Garry!
This is to thank Mike Lehman, Mike LHH, Gary Collins, Mark Bruntom, and R Wilson for their remarks.
Yes, it is a costly upgrade compared with the original cost of the Doodlebug. I think NWSL could reduce the cost by taking out the dummy Stanton truck. An unpowered Stanton truck sells for roughly $40 in the NWSL catalog, and that is about 1/3 of the total price of this kit.
A footnote to this thread: Now I am considering another change to this unit. I am thinking of replacing the incondescent light bulbs with LED's. I might remove the circuit board at that time.
Cheers.
Hi,all!
I repowered my Bachmann Doodlebug yesterday with the NWSL kit. Some observations: The instructions in my case were incorrect - the sideframes on the original power truck were NOT a "friction fit"; they had been glued on! Not to worry, as all that was needed was to break off the sideframes flush with the side of the power truck. They are simply glued with a solvent cement to the Stanton drive. As an aside, I wonder why the sideframe mounts on the Stanton are not centered between the wheels?
I was somewhat disappointed in the Stanton drive in that it was not as quiet as I expected. A bit growly, I thought. Still it runs smoothly, and I would guess that the prototype was also somewhat noisy.
I agree with Garry, in that NWSL would do well to eliminate the dummy Stanton truck from the kit. I, too, used the original truck, as I could see no point in going to the extra unnecessary effort to replace it.
In summary, if you have the money and need to fix that cracked gear situation in your doodlebug, the NWSL kit is worth the money.
What is the difference between the Stanton drive in the kit and the single Stanton drive trucks they sell singularly? How about a retrofit axle gear from an Athearn or Life Like? I have been looking for an affordable Doodlebug for awhile.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Surprised to see this thread back on front page.
Gary (gmcrail) ... Glad to hear you made a conversion as I did. My decision was based on thinking this was the only way to have a good running doodlebug. Now it does run well, and accomplished my goal.. I think it will quiet down after enough run time.
Pete .... Suggest you email NWSL for answers. However, this is the same Stanton drive they offer in their on-line catalog.