zstripe ....you got me to thinking... I WONDER?? If it will work diluted with water, in a air brush,with the PSI, TURNED UP??
....you got me to thinking... I WONDER?? If it will work diluted with water, in a air brush,with the PSI, TURNED UP??
It might work in your airbrush, but I wouldn't use it with water or any other liquid - simply spray it as a powder.
I've used baking soda to roughen plastic truck sideframes, to permit better adhesion of paint, and it does a pretty good job. I don't have a mini blaster, though, so use a full-size one, and work outside.
Wayne
I also have a mini blaster and use baking soda, I also use it outside but I use a large storage bin to blast in. It helps collect the baking soda, the garden hose removes the rest of the mess. With a little practice it removes decals and unwanted lettering with the lower air pressure the results are great, you just have to find the right angle which will make a difference to remove unwanted items. JIm.
don7 Well I tried the baking soda and it works quite well. .... Anyone else try the baking soda as an abrasive for taking paint off of metal items?
Well I tried the baking soda and it works quite well.
....
Anyone else try the baking soda as an abrasive for taking paint off of metal items?
Don,
I use baking soda quite a bit in my blast cabinet. But I use it only on plastic, with the air turned down. Soda is a lot softer than the aluminum oxide, and can strip a plastic model completely with the air pressure at about 40lbs. I've also successfully used soda to remove just the lettering off of a model, but that pressure is never higher than 25lbs. If I can get it lower, (like on an especially dry day), I will do that and remove the lettering.
If I'm stripping a plastic model completely, most times I just use the Scalecoat washaway, as its about as fast as the gun, but not as dusty. Soda has a tendency to find every way out of the cabinet. I can't take it outside to do it.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
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Don7,
The only time I have used baking soda,that I recall, is in a refrigerator, for unwanted oders.. But you got me to thinking... I WONDER?? If it will work diluted with water, in a air brush,with the PSI, TURNED UP??
Just a thought,
Cheers,
Frank
Unfortunately, with the baking soda I get a lot of dust which makes it hard to see exactly where the nozzle is, in relation to the item you are working on..
I was told that a shop vacuum would remove a lot of the dust(floating particles)
I decided to finish the project outside in the back yard, what a difference I sat at the picnic table and carefully went back and forth with the nozzle and watched the paint peel off. The baking soda of course just mixed with wind and floated off.
With the blast cabinet, you can collect the used abrasive I first used, aluminium oxide and run it through a strainer and reused it, There is very little waste, and recycling certainly helps with the cost of buying the abrasive..
With the baking soda unless I can find a way to keep it from turning into dust and obscuring one's vision it is just about impossible to use in the cabinet. Taking the compressor outside and the baking soda works great, but you end up not being able to contain it as it goes airborne and is gone.
zstripe Don7, I'm just curious, as to what kind of paint remover you used,to try to take the paint off. I have a old brass, Balboa,(remember them?) that a few years ago,I had stripped the paint from with Lacquer thinner and it didn't do any damage. By the way, I like the green version of the paint scheme.. Cheers, Frank
I'm just curious, as to what kind of paint remover you used,to try to take the paint off. I have a old brass, Balboa,(remember them?) that a few years ago,I had stripped the paint from with Lacquer thinner and it didn't do any damage.
By the way, I like the green version of the paint scheme..
I tried a number of paint removers and thinners on this locomotive.
Most I had used before with good results.
There were at least three layers of paint on this engine. I have never run into paint that was so hard to remove, it did flake off in a few places but not to where at least 75% of the paint was still on the engine and tender.
I hope never to run into paint similar to that again.
As I mentioned it only took me about an hour to do this engine.
One of the members on this board had mentioned that he had used baking soda as the abrasive material.He has had good results, not to mention it is about one third the cost.
I am going to give that a try, I can even do it outdoors, baking soda is not harmful to the environment. Plus working in the blast cabinet does hamper vision wise, have to try a shop vac to keep the dust level down.
Wayne,
Thanks for the information. I am sure you are right about the K5's.
I wonder what engine class I am thinking of. I will have to go digging for pictures, I do remember that the engines had Elephant ears installed and that they were black, I had thought I had seem the same engines back east and they were green.
As far as I know, the CNR's Hudsons were always assigned to the Central Region and always wore the green paint. The five locos were built specifically for the Toronto - Montreal run.While the Vanderbilt-style tenders of the the Hudsons were different than that of the loco shown below, the paint scheme was very similar for both loco and tender:
Sounds like your purchase did the trick. Now you have a decision to make, green and green or black and black.
Nice you have gotten to the point where you have to make that decision.
Good luck,
Richard
I bought a blast cabinet for abrasive blasting some of my brass engines. The cabinet arrived today and I brought out an old HO PFM CNR K5a Hudson I had bought cheap.
It must have three, if not more coats of a heavy enamel paint. Not to mention paint runs just about all over the engine and tender as well. No wonder I got it so cheap. $125 at an auction last year..
Some time back I had made a half hearted attempt at removing the paint from the tender, most of the paint removers I had used in the past had little effect on it. At one point I had let it soak overnight and there was only a minor effect at removing the paint.
Well, today in one hour of slow air brush blasting I have removed just about all of the paint from both the tender and the engine. Tomorrow, it will be ready to paint. I used a very fine aluminum silica, and both the engine and tender have a semi gloss finish, All ready to paint. The blasting had minimum effect on the detail finish as far as the bolts and rivets.
Big question now, is do I paint the engine the CNR passenger colours with the dark green and lighter green, or do I go with the grey and black finish.
I have never seen any CNR Hudson engines in the west that were painted the light green and dark green colours. They were always your basic black livery