THIS IS DRIVING ME INSANE !!!!!!

[Anonymous]

I have been trying to work out a way to get a continuse run on my layout and it is hard. I would like to put a narrow shelf all the way around my bed room, but the problem is that the enterance door and the closet door a too close together like this:

-
-
-
-
-
-

closet door



--------------------------------------------- door ------------------------

does anyone have any ides on how to overcome this within the scope of a beginner ? Thanks !

[vsmith]

Your diagram leaves a lot of questions,

Is there any way you can post a photo or scan a sketch. Otherwise I dont know if you'll get anything more than general suggestions.

[Anonymous]

If you have space, you could build a "dogbone" layout - basically a stretched oval. Only snag with this is that the "ends" of the oval will take up a lot of space - even 18in radius curves need 4ft of space to swing round. You would be able to build some interesting scenery on those sections however - large mountains, town scene, etc.

Hope this is of some help - getting past doors is always tricky - I can't extend my layout where it currently is as there's a door in the way - I'm planning to build a 4ft extension for use at shows and as a diorama for parking locos and stock on.

[Don Gibson]

CONTINUOUS RUNNING requires loops or an oval.
Loops require 22" track radii or 4' each in HO X 2.

"What to do"? How big is your room?
Too small"? Use N gauge.

[tstage]

Alex,

Give the dimensions (i.e. width in inches) of that wall that the closet and entry door are on. Where are the doors (in inches) in relationship to that? (I.e. form one another, from the perpendicular walls) If you can get that information, that will help all of us to be able to picture exactly what your dealing with. Look forward to tackling this together.

Tom

[Anonymous]

make a motorized draw bridge

[vsmith]

He could also use Atlas 15" R which would only require a 32" min turnaround with nominal clearances. This would restrict his rolling stock but wouldnt overwhelm the room.

In N at 9" R only a 20" shelf would be required for the return. given his space constrictions, this might be the best option. After all the guys gotta sleep somewhere.

[Anonymous]

10 ft wall
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- window
- -
-11ft 6in wall 14ft wall -
- -
- -
-
closet door - 27in -
-
-
wall- 4 to 5 ft long. doors -
swing against it and coat rack is on it wall- almost 3 ft-
---------------------------------------------------- door- 36in wide ------------------------



That is a more complete diagram. Thanks for the suggestions !

[Junctionfan]

Sounds like my room. What about a ceiling layout? (I think that's the term)

[Anonymous]

I thought about a cieling layout, but I am concerned about visibility. would the visibility be alright in HO scale ? Thanks !

[Jetrock]

A ceiling layout is not really functional as an operating layout, since it cannot be easily reached by the operator, or observable if detailed like a conventional layout (you can't see from underneath the benchwork!)

For ***CONTINUOUS*** running in a loop around the room, it looks like you need two lift-out/swing-out sections--one in front of the closet and one in front of the entry door.

I have a question about the corner:

First, what is the distance between the side of the closet door closest to the corner and the corner?
Second, what is the distance between the side of the entry door closest to the corner and the corner?

|
|
=

Closet

=
| <-This distance
|
| \/ This distance
+-----------=Door=--------

If that distance is anything over about two feet, you should have plenty of room for a 90-degree curve around the corner, to which you can attach your lift-out sections. That corner will interfere with the doors' ability to open all the way, but you'll be able to open them.

[Anonymous]

there is no distance between the corner and the closet door. the end of the door is snug in the corner

=
=wall
=

closet door
wall
====================== door ==========

[Jetrock]

ahhh, okay then.

in that case--you mentioned there was almost 3 feet from the corner to the room door, so here are two possible solutions:

Solution 1: Abandon the closet entirely. You'll have lots of room for shelves under the layout, so just move the stuff in the closet to those new shelves.

Solution 2: Build a train table on casters, 3 feet square. This will normally go in the corner in front of the closet door, and will contain a 90-degree curve. Since the other end of this train table on casters will be between the door to the room and the corner, you can bridge the distance from the table on casters to the far side of the room door with this train table.

|
|+-------|| || \__+------------+
|| |+------------+
+---------------+ door +--------

Not sure how clear this is (the closet is ommitted for clarity) but the thing in the left-hand corner is a rollable table containing a curve, which connects to the track from the other wall--the three-foot "bridge"that goes in front of the door attaches to the rolling table on one side and the shelf on the other.

When you want to get into the closet, just lift out the bridge section, disconnect the section from the shelf on the other side, and roll it out of the way!

[AntonioFP45]

A removable "Lift Out" section as mentioned may be your best bet. There was a Model Railroader article on this. I wish I could remember which issue but I believe it's been within the last two to three years.

If you go this route then whenever you operate your railroad, make the family aware of this.

Another thing that may help. Consider converting the door into your room from a swinging door to a sliding door. This does involve some money. If your family is o.k with this then perhaps a cousin or uncle that's into carpentry can help. With a sliding door, people can come in and out of the room and just simply "duck" during an operating session.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

A removable "Lift Out" section as mentioned may be your best bet.

Matt left a good reply in my "Bridge" thread about lift out sections and lift bridges. I thought this might help you Alex. [:)] I hope it does. Seems like a neat alternative to a lift out section and would add something pretty cool to the layout.

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21744

[Anonymous]

The lift-bridge described in the tread is a nice touch, but hardly the way I'd start. I'd put my money and efforts into building the basics of a running layout rather than spending any amount of time scratch-building 3' long working lift-bridges. That can come later.

A lift out section is the way I would go. In fact, my new layout will contain a number of long sections similar to lift-out sections.

If you make the lift -out too heavy it's going to discourage you from its use. For the short span you need, I think you could frame the section with 1x2's and use 1" foam (blue or pink) with a 1X2 flat in the middle. You're not going to be walking on this section so I see no need to overbuild with heavier lumber, plywood and thicker foam. As described, the section will be rigid enough unless you're running large-scale locos.

Avoid curves, turnouts or sidings that cross the joints. If your plan includes a section that consists only of a single mainline track, this is the place for it. Using a short piece of sectional track to link the rails (like in the N-trak scheme) might be easier than trying to align the ends of the fixed rails, though there are those who do it succeessfully.

Wire the layout so that there is ample dead space before the liftout when it's not in place. ( You know there'll be times when you just fire up the loco for a run out to the canyon.)

Provide shelf brackets above or below the layout to store the lift-out when not in use.

Lastly, it's a lot easier to change the swing of the door so it opens "out" than to rip the wall open and possibly having to reroute wiring in order to install a pocket door .

Wayne