Michael6792 ....haven't heard anything about the TECH 6 packs. Is there something wrong with them or is it just that people are converting to DCC instead?
....haven't heard anything about the TECH 6 packs. Is there something wrong with them or is it just that people are converting to DCC instead?
The Tech 6 is a "crossover" - allows one to operate in DC mode or DCC mode, depending on locomotive and operator preference. In DC mode, the Tech 6 is a nice power pack with available handheld and decent feature set. In DCC mode, the Tech 6 allows full control of sound and other DCC features, and operates as a DCC throttle (6 locomotive address capacity). It's pretty useful for those who have engines of both persuasions and a layout already wired for DC.
my thoughts and experiences, your choices
Fred W
Glad the OP got a replacement PAK, best of luck..
I do not wish any Power Pack issues on anyone...I had this unit since I started 'thinking of trains' in 2KY, -it is my only DC pak.DCC is handled by a 5amp NCE.
It is my MRC PowerPack, i added Volt & Ampmeter's to the track side.Following J.Hedigers article, the cheap Ampmeter (my fault) is not sensitive enough, but does sense a lot, it helped me quite a few times, so to me: it don't need to be pricey, to be decisive.. (common sense helps)...Approx 2Ky0ish, possibly a Tech II (2)... Has been a real solid, reliable Unit! She will haul right now!!
Soo Line fan Michael, To help you decide on a replacement pack, MRC has a handy comparison chart here at bottom of the page: http://www.modelrectifier.com/train-controls/dc-power.asp Note the various VA values between packs within the same series. Basically the higher the VA, the higher the cost. Some added features such as momentum and braking are added on some packs. Others use dual throttles. Even the lowest (numerical) 200 series pack, the Tech 4 200 is double in VA and amps over your recently departed 1300.
Michael,
To help you decide on a replacement pack, MRC has a handy comparison chart here at bottom of the page:
http://www.modelrectifier.com/train-controls/dc-power.asp
Note the various VA values between packs within the same series. Basically the higher the VA, the higher the cost.
Some added features such as momentum and braking are added on some packs. Others use dual throttles.
Even the lowest (numerical) 200 series pack, the Tech 4 200 is double in VA and amps over your recently departed 1300.
That's a handy guide for comparison. I'll probably end up going with the TECH4 260 as I have had several people now tell me how well it works for them. I haven't heard anything about the TECH 6 packs. Is there something wrong with them or is it just that people are converting to DCC instead?
Thanks to everyone for all of the info.
Michael
Never attempt anything you don't want to explain to the EMT
tstage I've been very happy with my Railpower 1370. It has 19 VAC and a very good low-speed control. Tom
I've been very happy with my Railpower 1370. It has 19 VAC and a very good low-speed control.
Tom
I agree with Tom on the MRC Railpower 1370.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I have five of them on my layout, and I have never had a problem with any of them.
Right now, I use them primarily to power all of my Tortoises, signals, and control panel switches and LEDs. However, in the past, I have also used some of them to power my DC layout before eventually converting to DCC. Most of them have been in service on my layout, now going on 10 years.
The MRC Railpower 1370 is available at MB Klein for $39.99 and, as you can see, it has excellent reviews. Incidentally, MB Klein is an outstanding on line retailer.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/MRC-Railpower-Model-Train-Powerpack-p/mrc-aa370.htm
Rich
Alton Junction
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Jim
You are right Jim, that it was more informational than looking for a solution however the information provided to me in return was helpful and appreciated. It was also somewhat of a rant as I had gone through all of the obvious & most common things that would cause those problems & ended up finding that it was something that I wouldn't have thought would be the problem in a million years.
I solved the problem today by giving the power pack to the guys that come around in a big green truck & pick up stuff. Now I'll have to pick up a decent pack because, even though it is only a test track, I would still like to run these locos as slow as possible & see how well they perform. While the train set packs that I have around do work, they have very little low speed control and will most likely meet the same fate as the MRC did earlier today.
Michael6792I tried a different loco that I knew ran well. Same problem so I started looking at the track. I crimped every rail joiner to make sure it was making good contact. Nothing. Then I went ahead & soldered every joint. Still no improvement. Finally the last part of the equation, on a hunch I disconnected the power pack (Railpower 1300) and hooked up an old Bachmann power pack I had laying around. Then every locomotive I put on the track worked the way it should.
Hello Michael,
When I read this it was very clear, to me at least, that you had successfully solved your problem. Since you went back and swapped the 1300 pack and the problems were repeatable left no doubt. What other logical conclusion could there be?
I took the post as a informational type as opposed to a help request, since you had solved the problem. So, good job with that.
When I made the comment "Your not the first person on this forum to have trouble with the 1300" I meant exactly what I said. In other words, over the years others have had this pack fail on them and posted that information. I was not implying I root caused internal issues with this pack, had a back door into MRC, or had any special knowledge. Nor was I implying there were a rash of failures or every 1300 fails. This is not a slam on MRC. I think they build a very good product but do not like the fact parts or schematics are not sold.
As far as other methods to diagnose this issue, a DMM could have been placed across the terminals while trains were running.
If the voltage fell off, while the various engines slowed, I would have suspected an internal pack problem.
If the voltage went higher while the engines slowed, I would have suspected a dirty track / joiner / feeder issue. The reason the voltage would go up, is the loss of the load of the locomotives, due to the reasons above.
Now, lets talk about the 1300. One way we can acquire knowledge about products, other than speculation and conjecture is to actually look at the specifications.
The Rail Power 1300 pack has a very low 7 VA rating. The amperage is only 0.6. We know that older Athearns can pull 0.5 amps so what would happen if we ran several Athearns together with this pack?
My own thoughts are, this is a entry level pack, more suitable to N than HO. It could be used as a starter HO pack, with a low amp engine combo. This is probably the intended market MRC designed this pack for.
Perhaps the pack was overloaded at one point? With a low VA rating this is easily done. Which brings us back to why some members, over the years had issues with it. Maybe the regulator is weak, or not enough dielectric grease was applied to the sink? You can open it up with a anti tamper torex. I believe it was Tom who built a screwdriver with notch and someone else used a needle nose.
But since parts are not available due to MRCs silly policy, it is a moot point, unless you can find a suitable substitute for the bad component, after you trace the circuit with a non-existent schematic.
As Jeff mentioned, a MRC, Tech, 4, 280, is a good choice..
Cheers,
Frank
As far as train set packs go, I use an old Bachmann power pack for turnout operation. If I ever go back to DC I have a MRC Tech 4 280 in storage.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
In my original post I did not say it but I in fact did clean the track. Being a test track it gets cleaned almost daily & if I start having trouble that is the first thing I look at. The joints are all soldered & the feeder wires are soldered to the track. The locomotives are being cleaned & refurbished before ever going on the track. When someone gives me a locomotive that doesn't work it gets taken apart, motor tested and if the motor runs the usual culprit is dirty wheels or dirt somewhere in the loco that is causing bad connections.
I did try the power pack again, several times,and found that when I first turn it on it seems ok but after awhile of running is when the problems occur. I also noticed that the direction switch isn't working as it should.
I think it's time to dump it along with the "train set" power packs & get a decent power pack to use for this. Any suggestions?
Sounds like thermal runaway to me,the voltage regulator getting to hot,due to the circuit before it is starting to go south,or the regulator itself,,,,, just my thought..
My first inclination was to tell him he should clean the track but I got side-tracked by other things before I could do so. I'm familiar with the power pack problem, not a Railpower unit in my case but an MRC 'Gold box' as I think they were called. It tested good on a static test before under load the power would would slowly and steadily decrease until it hit the point that at full throttle it was putting out one third power with occasional spikes.
On track I would make sure it's clean, the joiners are soldered or at least clean and tight and the wire connections should be clean and tight. In my case I'd solder them to the rails. Wheels should be cleaned completely and carefully with a non-abrasive pad or cloth.
Schuylkill and Susquehanna All these posts about power packs, and not one about the track! MICHAEL6792, you said that you cleaned all the parts in the locomotives, but did you clean the track as well? Your origional post said nothing about cleaning track, and your problem sounds like issues I've had with dirty track.
All these posts about power packs, and not one about the track!
MICHAEL6792, you said that you cleaned all the parts in the locomotives, but did you clean the track as well? Your origional post said nothing about cleaning track, and your problem sounds like issues I've had with dirty track.
I think that everyone is focusing on the power pack because the OP indicated that all of the locos performed well when he replaced that Railpower 1300 with another power pack.
Dirty track could certainly be an issue, but so could crud on the wheels.
OK guys, cool it or I'm locking this up tighter than the gold vault at Fort Knox. Now let's get back to a civil conversation.
He would not be the first person to have trouble with dirty track.
Do I need to search the archives and present proof of this statement ?
Modeling the Pennsy and loving it!
Well if you don't want to tell me or the rest of us what is wrong with the 1300, you could at least tell the OP, instead of just saying to him that he is not the first one on the forum to have trouble with the 1300.
You are the one confused, which does not surprise me.
2 of the the first 3 are about the 1300. I gave you lots of 1370s due to your own experiences with them.
Soo Line fan I can assure you that my comment was in response to a prior comment of yours, not a random act of rudeness.
I can assure you that my comment was in response to a prior comment of yours, not a random act of rudeness.
Whatever.
I have no idea what you are talking about.
P.S. I looked at all those links you provided and they all seem to relate to the 1370. I thought you said that the 1300 had problems. Maybe you confused the two?
And shame on me because based on our previous conversations, I thought you were being snide.
The number of times I have been rude and terse on this forum, could be counted on both hands, with a few fingers left over. And in every case it was directed at either Monster, AKA big AL or the recently departed SUX. And deservedly so.
Not everyone can get along with everyone, unfortunately.
As far as the archives go, here are some examples, including the 1370, which you seem so concerned about:
http://.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/29520.aspx
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/51846/cs655670.aspx#655670
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/58201/727346.aspx#727346
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/192406/2101699.aspx#2101699
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/150561/1667316.aspx#1667316
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/113568/1304951.aspx#1304951
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/105610.aspx
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/97980/1142442.aspx#1142442
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/20091.aspx
Soo Line fan I said the 1300 not the 1370. Perhaps if you bothered to search the archives you would have your answers.
I said the 1300 not the 1370. Perhaps if you bothered to search the archives you would have your answers.
Jim, I know that you said, the 1300, not the 1370 which is the power pack in the series that I own.
My only interest in even replying to your earlier comment was that I was curious what the problems were with a different power pack in the same series. Shame on me, though, for taking up your valuable time instead of bothering to search the archives for my answers.
Once I came to my senses, I contacted MRC directly to ask the head of the company to describe the problems with the 1300. As he angrily hung up the phone, he shouted, "You're the first person on this forum to have trouble with the 1370".
Check the output posts of the offending power pack for corrosion. We had another thread a few days ago where that proved to be the culprit in a similar condition.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Hmm didnt realize it was be incredibly rude day.
Mechanical Department "No no that's fine shove that 20 pound set all around the yard... those shoes aren't hell and a half to change..."
The Missabe Road: Safety First
I have two of the MRC Railpower 1300 power packs, both of them about 10 years old. The only problem I have experienced is that the directional switch doesn't always work. Pushing it firmly in the desired direction usually solves the problem.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
A little terse.
Re-read Rich's post.
Have fun and enjoy the day.
Lee
Soo Line fan Your not the first person on this forum to have trouble with the 1300.
Your not the first person on this forum to have trouble with the 1300.
Interesting. What is the problem with the 1300?
I have five of the MRC Railpower 1370's, some purchased ten years ago, and none of that series exhibits any problems.