One of my old steamers lost a screw and the valve gear needs to be re-attached.
I just do not know where to get a threaded screw that small so I would try to re-attach the valve gear with a rivet.
Problem, I do not have any rivets, what would be a good source to find rivets for HO locomotives?
... at the rivet counter, of course
Sorry, I could not resist this one! Have you tried Micromark?
Ulrich, are you calling don a rivet counter? Or are the rivets on a rivet counter? LOL
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Try Precision Scale & people who stock them, I bet there are others like Bowser, but I only have the PSC catalog here. They may even have the Threaded one, & they do have good data on them too. precisionscaleco.com
Best of luck
Is the company that made the steamer still in business? If so, they probably still have that screw in stock, or they could at least tell you the size and thread count.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
http://yardbirdtrains.com/
If its a Mantua/Penn Line/Bowser/ Varney he's got the parts, or knows where to get it.
He does stock brass rivets too!
Karl
NCE über alles!
http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=rivet
Decals that are raised with rivet heads in HO and O scale.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
DigitalGriffinhttp://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=rivet Decals that are raised with rivet heads in HO and O scale.
That said, I thought of Archer scale rivet decals when I first saw the thread title too.
chutton01 DigitalGriffinhttp://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=rivet Decals that are raised with rivet heads in HO and O scale. Psst, I think the OP meant real (small) rivets, to replace a missing screw on his locomotive model. That said, I thought of Archer scale rivet decals when I first saw the thread title too.
Me too ! .... Don't think a decal will hold his side rod on very well !
You could also try NWSL.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Nuts. You are quite right. Sorry about that.
In that case they may want to try contacting Bowser/Stewart/English's Model Trains. They might have a couple small pieces left from their steam engine kits that are out of production.
ChadLRyan Try Precision Scale & people who stock them, I bet there are others like Bowser, but I only have the PSC catalog here. They may even have the Threaded one, & they do have good data on them too. precisionscaleco.com Best of luck
I was on their site and I see there are a number of catalogues. Does the catalogue you have contains a listing for HO sized rivets? If so could you let me know the part number?
Bowser appears to have small screws and rivets. See page 94 of: http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoother/Partref1.pdf
You should be able to get a suitable replacement at at least one of the sources mentioned, but if not, it's not all that difficult to make a replacement.
You'll need some brass wire of the proper diameter, a set of small drill bits and a pin vise. Secure the wire in a vise or hold it firmly with pliers, then using a suitable tool (I use the point of an old draughting compass) mark, as closely as possible, the centre-point on the end of the wire. With the smallest drill bit you have available, use the pin vise to drill into the wire's end - you don't have to go too deep, probably only .040" or .050". Next, use progressively larger bits to increase the hole's diameter, taking care to not break through to the side if your centre-mark wasn't centred. Next, cut off the hollowed-out end - leave it long enough so that the remaining solid wire will reach right through the parts to be joined, with only the hollow part protruding. You can use a razor saw or cut-off disc, but I prefer to use an old X-Acto blade. Working on a hard surface (I use a sheet of glass) press the heel of the blade on the wire at the point you wish to make the cut, then roll the wire back and forth using the blade and applying moderate pressure. Make sure to restrain the future rivet, as it will go flying once the cut is completed.Next, punch a disc from some sheet brass - this will form the rivet's head, and should be of an appropriate size and thickness. Prior to punching the disc, use fine sandpaper to clean the sheet, then use your soldering iron to tin a small area from where you'll be punching the disc.The solid end of the drilled-out wire should also be tinned. To do so, drill a shallow hole in a block of wood, the same diameter as the wire, and only deep enough to hold the work upright. Once the end of the wire has been tinned, you can then deepen the hole so that only the tinned top of the wire protrudes. Place the disc atop it, then sweat the two parts together.Use the rivet as you would a commercially-available one: assemble the parts onto the rivet, head down, then insert a suitable item into the drilled-out end of the rivet (tip of a small nail, centre punch, etc.) to spread the end.You'd not likely want to produce a lot of rivets in this manner, but it works for times when you need to repair something "now", or when a replacement is no longer available.
Wayne
Don, I PM'd you..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivets-Brass-pkg-20-Mantua-Varney-Bowser-Penn-Line-Valve-Gear-/230926905925?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item35c450f245
Did somebody say brass rivets!!
Yardbirds strikes again!
Don,
At the rivet counter - where else???
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks all for the advice,
I did drop a note to Bowser to see if they have any rivet kits left from their kit days, also ordered a couple of catalogues from Precision Scale. They have a number of rivets in various sizes I am told by one of their staff.
Mark:
NWSL makes rivet embossing tools for making raised rivet heads but the rivets are cosmetic only. There is no separate shaft as there would be with a real rivet. The tool simply forms bumps on a flat sheet.
Great tool, but it will not do the job in this case where an actual separate part is needed.
DoctorWayne's method works for making one offs, but as he said, it isn't a very quick solution. Don't expect the first attempt to be perfect (or, as it usually works in my case, the first one will come out fine but it will take a dozen more attempts to make the second one!).
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
kbkchooch http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivets-Brass-pkg-20-Mantua-Varney-Bowser-Penn-Line-Valve-Gear-/230926905925?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item35c450f245 Did somebody say brass rivets!! Yardbirds strikes again!
Great, ordered two sets, now just the waiting.
Try Lily Pad Hardware...
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR