Old equipment

[Anonymous]

If a complete tear down is beyond your ablities, I offer compete locomotive reworking services, very affordable, including brass. If they are decent quality locomotives, not cheap bachmans or the cheaper Tycos, then they are worth reworking. All your older Mantua, Bowser, Penn Line, ie: diecast locomotives will pull much better than the newer plastic ones. And the parts are easy to get when you need them. Email me at [e-mail] if you need locomotive repairs. Cheers Mike T

[orsonroy]

Sam,

The engines won't run because they need to be cleaned and re-lubed. Oxidation on the wheels and power pickups are causing poor electrical flow, and any lubricants that were on the engines have long since turned to paste, making it impossible for parts to move.

To make them perform up to standards, the engines will have to be completely taken apart, and every electrical and moving part surface cleaned. An alcohol scrub followed by a polishing with a Dremel polishing wheel (the cotton ones) works wonders. After the engines have been reassembled, use a modern lubricant designed specifically for model trains. I suggest Aero Lube products. Whatever you do, do NOT use normal household oils like 3-in-One! I've seen old Mantua engines lubricated with everything from Crisco to 30 weight motor oil, and it ain't pretty.

One thing to keep in mind. If these engines are cheap, toy train set plastic engines, they're probably not worth the time and effort to recondition. If they have sentimental value, put them on display. Go to Trainworld and buy yourself a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 for $55; it runs better than any steamer built 35 years ago, and is better detailed than most. You won't be sorry!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by FundyNorthern

220 volts!

I worked for an architectural firm and when we moved into a new building (actually the old Lehigh & Hudson RR office building) I shared an office with my boss while renovations were done. It took a while to figure why my new electric pencil sharpener ran so much slower than his lightening fast, identical one. Mine was only pluged into a 110 volt outlet. I'm glad I didn't plug my new computer into that unmarked air conditioner outlet.

Wayne

[Fergmiester]

Now Fundy be nice, just because someone took a cattle prod to you doesn't mean it will work for everyone and everything else [;)]

Seriously though Fundy has a point. 35 years of sitting may require a major tear down and retro fit. Depending on who the manufacturer was may also determine how viable your project will be.

Can you give us some more details as to make and type of engines/diesels you have on hand? This could also a matter of cleaning off wheels and contacts as oxidation maybe the culprit

220V![:O][:O]

As Always
Fergie

[ndbprr]

Sure, it's pretty easy and just takes some time. First disconnect the motor from the drive train and see if it runs. Chances are the lubrication in the entire engine is gone or hardened. If the motor runs I would do two things. I'd use a cotton swab with WD-40 at the bearings to solvate the old oil and then I'd use either the corner of a paper towell or another swab to remove it and replace it with something like Labelle lubricant. Then I would turn to the drive train and do the same thing with the grease on the gears which is probably hardened and useless. Assuming northing is broken chances are it is just frozen up. Be careful with the WD-40 if the engine is plastic as it could distort or melt it but judiciously apply it to all the bearing points and do the same things you did to the motor. By the way, this is why real engines aren't necessarily good candidates for restoration becasue no one kept the bearings lubed while they sat in the parks. Don't know the guy's name but someone cared for the SP GS-4 enough to do that regularly for almost thirty years making it's restoration possible.

[Anonymous]

220 volts!

[Anonymous]

How do you get 35 year old steam locomotives to run. They've been boxed up and now wouldn't work. Any ideas?