Blind drivers are wider than flanged drivers too. You can get blind drivers from Bowser and Greenway products depending on what diameter. The axle sizes will be different. I have a Sunset I1sa 2-10-0 that had blind drivers on axles 2,3,and4. They tended to drop between the rails and was a pain in the neck. I had replaced all the blind drivers but the center axle. It now negotiates curves and turnouts as low as a #5. I do not have anything smaller to try on. I can't see why your Russian can not go through a #4. They were a lot smaller and shorter wheelbase than the I1sa.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
steamer5 I am thinking about blinding some drivers on this engine. Would the center driver or the rear driver be better for going through #4 atlas turnouts. This is a brass engine it it matters.
I am thinking about blinding some drivers on this engine. Would the center driver or the rear driver be better for going through #4 atlas turnouts. This is a brass engine it it matters.
Looking at plan and photos in Model Railroader Cyclopedia - Volume 1 STEAM LOCOMOTIVES the Russian decapod either came with all drivers flanged or had blind #2 and main drivers. The latter left two flanged axles at each end of the locomotive.
This is in line with other locomotives I am familiar with which had blind drivers - everything from the Brunel-gauge 4-2-4T with the highest drivers ever to the JNR E10 class 2-10-4T and a 2-8-2 that Crandell (Selector) posted some years ago.
Bear in mind that blind drivers usually don't have tapered treads - they're cylinders, not cones.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with a blind-drivered 2-6-6-2)
I would blind the center driver to prevent problems in tracking. If the drivers can move from side to side a little, you shouldn't have a problem with #4 turnouts then.
Modeling the Pennsy and loving it!
On the prototype, and on most scale counterparts, it is the practice to place blind drivers in between outer ones with flanges. In the case of the BLI 2-10-4's, for example, the center driver set is blind. I think it is best for the front truck to have a flanged driver nearest it in your case.
Crandell