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Removing Acryllic Paint From Styrene

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 17, 2004 12:23 PM
Hi! I screwed up painting the sides of a Branchline Heavyweight Coach. I sprayed Modelflex Acrylic, which paint I use whenever I can. The trouble is I managed to get some grit or something into the paint (yes, I use a filter), and I need to start over.

Has anyone tried the Isopropyl treatment on a Branchline passenger car?

Thanx - John Trotter
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 15, 2004 2:25 PM
Oh.....gotcha. Nope Dave Kelly here. Very uncommon name I know! lol.
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Wednesday, September 15, 2004 2:05 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dkelly

Trekker? mmmmmm new term to me.


Hi DKelly,

I know I'm Off Topic [#offtopic] But there are a number of Star Trek fans on this forum and some have hinted this in their signatures or closings in past posts ( I've seen words like: Kaplah!, Corbomite, Neutronium, and Warp Speed----could only be Star Trek fans!).

I asked if you were a Trekker because the late actor Deforest Kelly was also affectionately known as "DKelly" [:D] by friends and fans. He played the quick witted "Dr. McCoy" on the original 1965-66 Star Trek series. Hope I didn't offend you! [8D][;)]

O.K! Back to Trains!

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 15, 2004 11:46 AM
Trekker? mmmmmm new term to me.

I think it would be great if loco and car manufacturers would just add one line to their instruction sheet - what kind of paint remover to use. Wouldn't cost them much I'm thinkin.
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  • From: Frankfort, Kentucky
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Posted by ben10ben on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 8:14 PM
Yep, 91% isopropanol will do the trick. You can also get 99% at some places, which will work even better.
Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 7:06 PM
DKelly, good question.
I know that on the "Old Atlas" units with the Roco motors I would use the 91% alcohol with no hesitation. Of course these are the units that came in the "Yellow" box. There are still a lot of these "floating around". Even used, they're often nice running units, built to last!

I personally wouldn't take any chances with the newer Atlas bodies unless I spoke with or read from someone that has stripped one or more of these units. I've noticed that the bodies of the new units are better detailed and thinner. I do wonder if they're Kato bodies.

(BTW: are you a trekker?)

Peace out!

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 5:27 PM
There's a different kind of alcohol you could try using. Denatured or wood alcohol will cut right through the paint. It is sometimes called shelac thinner or fuel alcohol, and can be found in the paint section at any hardware or home improvement store. It shouldn't take much soaking to cut the paint. It should curdle, ball up and almost fall off the model. It shouldn't attack the plastic, but do a small test on the inside to be safe
.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 4:47 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

91% rubbing alcohol should do the trick.


Yeah, what he said.

---jps
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 11:02 AM
Good point. I've heard the same thing about Kato shells. In the 80's Atlas switched from Roco, to I think Kato for their engines. Would the alcohol warning apply to those too? I've had no personal experience to rely on.
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 10:51 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

91% rubbing alcohol should do the trick. Let the shell soak in the alcohol for 15 minutes to an hour, and scrup the heck out of it with an old toothbrush. It might require a couple soaking sessions before all the paint is off, but it's the least agressive (and therefore least harmful) technique there is.


The alcohol method is also my preferred method as well and have had no problems, however, Be aware: Don't use the alcohol method on KATO shells. A number of modelers on this forum have reported that the alcohol may or will damage KATO Locomotive bodies!

Apparently Kato uses a plastic that's different from what Athearn, Proto, and Atlas have been using on their locomotives and cars and will warp when in contact with alcohol.

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 10:21 AM
91% rubbing alcohol should do the trick. Let the shell soak in the alcohol for 15 minutes to an hour, and scrup the heck out of it with an old toothbrush. It might require a couple soaking sessions before all the paint is off, but it's the least agressive (and therefore least harmful) technique there is.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Removing Acryllic Paint From Styrene
Posted by robbykuczynski on Tuesday, September 14, 2004 10:03 AM


Hi everyone. I'm a returning model railroader after several years of inactivity. Any suggestions on how to safely remove acryllic paint from a styrene locomotive shell?

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