Redore Amazing that we still have all these problems when MDC came up with a coupler pocket that is about as good as it gets mechanically over 40 years ago. Hard to beat a box lid that screws on.
Amazing that we still have all these problems when MDC came up with a coupler pocket that is about as good as it gets mechanically over 40 years ago. Hard to beat a box lid that screws on.
You are dead spot on! The amount of versatility that a coupler screw provides is huge. I'm even starting to replace the metal Athearn coupler covers with the little snap-on tabs on the side with a drilled out center post and a screw.
Len S
Len, I went through the same. Thought there had to be a different approach. Just be real careful of the air hose and brake chain bellcrank. Love the detail, but broke some parts on the first attempt at dropping the frame/ centersill. These were a half dozen Evans Plug doors. I would recommend the Kadee whisker #148, no futzin" around w/ a bronze spring, that's where I screwed up the details.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Thanks, I didn't know that Forum existed. I'll try and see what I can find.
I've read about this over on the Atlas Rescue Forum. Google it and check over there for more details.
- Douglas
Thanks for your reply. There HAS to be a better way, though. I can't believe that Atlas thought modelers would keep the Accumate couplers in place very long before changing them out. Really poor planning if we have to break the car apart to do routine maintenance. What if the Accumate fails or breaks? Do we put the car on the RIP track forever?
I bought one of these, and as I recall, it just came down to prying off the glued in piece you describe. A few small pieces got lost but the couplers did get replaced. A terrible way to build the car IMHO.
Good Morning,
I just purchased an Atlas Master Line HO scale box car and find it to be a quite detailed and realistic for the money. I do have a problem, though, with the car. Typically, any RTR car that I have goes through the same process: Tune the trucks, check the car's weight and replace the couplers with Kadees. here's the problem. I can't figure out how to open the coupler pockets to get at the old coupler.
After taking off the wheels, it appears the center frame, the truck bolsters and the coupler pocket cover are all one piece and glued on to the car bottom. There is also quite a bit of detail, such as air and brake lines running the length of the car. I did search this Forum and even Googled trying to find out any info, but decided to ask my question to this Group before contacting Atlas.
Anybody else run into this or have any suggestions. All information will be appreciated. Thanks in advance and Happy Modeling!