Rivarossi Cab Forward Disassembly

[Anonymous]

Ray, They came through in excellent focus. The exploded view I am well aquainted with as have done some in drafting. Just like a road map. Very very helpful. And I would of course take the 0-8-0 also.

You know, I have a digital camera that I could have posted images of this locomotive. Might have saved some time in explaining. Hindsight is a wonderful thing isn't it? [:D]

[Anonymous]

Glad to here you got it running.
Did the scans come through OK?
I have the diagram for the 0-8-0 also if you need it, but there were a few design changes along the way and it may not be the same.
This one has the motor in the cab.

[Anonymous]

twhite, Looks like the old style wheels.The flange looks about a 1/16th deep. (Have a 0-8-0 AHM/Riv that has the same type of driver wheel.) Resoldered the wire going to the tender to get her going again. That wire is pretty small too and very pliable. Looks like you could pull it apart with your hands. I have seen this happen on diesels more than the steam locomotives.

[twhite]

Greengoose: Just curious. Does your Cab-forward have the old deep-flange Rivarossi European wheels, or the newer almost RP-25 wheels? Reason I'm asking, is that I have one with the older European wheels, and you won't get good contact with the rails on anything under code 100 track. Also, make sure those wheels are really CLEAN--the older Rivarossi are VERY sensitive to that. I usually turn the loco upside down in a cradle, attach wires, then clean them with alcohol and a rag. Watch that you don't get the alcohol on the traction tires, though, it'll take them right off. Hate to say it, but I've found that when the older Rivarossi start running intermittently, it's a sign that they're starting to just wear out. I've got a new Rivarossi Allegheny, and it's a top-notch runner, but the company has done some drastic re-tooling in the past couple of years. A friend of mine has a newer cab-forward with the central motor and says it's a beautiful runner. I've seen it in action, it's quiet, smooth and a REAL puller! And they're not prohibitively expensive by todays plastic standards--about $2-300. If you can't get yours to run well any more, you might think about saving up for one. Or for that matter, if you don't mind an AC-4/5, the new BLI Cab-forward is just a noisy little gem!

[Anonymous]

twhite and Ray,

Your comments were right on. I have it apart. It's easy once you know how. :D

By the way the motor is in the cab not in the center.

[Anonymous]

Ray, I would like to see that diagram please. EMail to [e-mail].

I removed the screw at the front on top and the two underneath at the rear of the cab. But no joy. Both ends can be raised abit but something is holding it solid in the middle as I said. I can pull the walkways out on both sides so there is no restricttions but it still looks like that center post that I can see is holding the two halves together. Hmmmm. Stymied at the moment. Any other ideas while I ponder this? :)

[Anonymous]

If it's the older version, twhite is correct. There is a screw holding it from the top.
According to the diagram in the 1972 AHM parts catalog I have, there is a screw under what they are calling the whistle.
This isn't a very large drawing , but if you think it will help I can scan it and Email it to you.

[twhite]

Did you check under the feedwater heater cap on the boiler? As I remember, the Rivarossi 4-8-8-2 also had a screw there, and as I remember, you have to remove the cab railings. at the bottom of the steps. Does yours have the old cab motor, or the new motor which I understand is midway in the boiler? As I remember, my old Rivarossi just had two screws and the railings, which had to be pulled out from the bottom. Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

Thanks. This is a center post that goes from bottom to top. The ends lift up a bit but the center stays together controlled bythis post from what little I can see. Almost started drilling before I posted this thread too. :D I misplaced the box and paper work on it. By the way this is a 4272 cab number.

[cacole]

I didn't have to drill anything out to get mine opened up to install a decoder. I don't remember exactly what I did, but seem to recall that there were only two or three screws to take out from the bottom, and maybe one inside the smoke stack. There might be tabs under the cab end that require you to lift the smoke stack end away from the boiler frame and then push back or pull forward. Unfortunately, there have been two or three versions over the years and yours may be different than mine. If you can locate the documentation that came with it, there may be an exploded drawing from which you can figure out where the screws are that hold the boiler to the frame. I would not try drilling anything, no matter what.

[Anonymous]

My 4-8-8-2 has a intermittant connection in it so I dove into taking it apart. Probably one of those small motor connection wires that like to come apart at the solder joint in model locomotives. It is ready to come apart but there is still one thing that is holding the upper and lower boiler halves from coming apart. About halfway down from either end as you look at the bottom there is a 7/16 ths diameter opening that is a bit over a half inch deep ending in some solder. Do you drill this out and it comes apart or is there another way I am missing? [:(]