E-L man tomThanks so much for the advice, Jeffrey! I saved your reply to this thread, as it is, for me, who is a complete bozo when it comes to the innerds of a locomotive, very valuable information. I have many locos that have been sitting in boxes for years. Some of them I have had out lately and I have to say, they don't run very well, (especially the blue box) and I bought them new (some as many as fifteen years ago); they haven't been used much, if at all.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jeffrey-wimberlyOn the bearings and gears I use 91% alcohol.
Just be careful hadling painted parts after using 91% alcohol, it is an excellent paint stripper. A friend of mine was handling a loco shell after using 91% to clean the wheels. There was some residual alcohol on his fingers, and that little bit stripped and smeared some detail painting on the shell. Fortunately we were able to repair the damage.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
jeffrey-wimberly When I get an old loco that needs cleaning (most I get from Ebay need it bad) I tear it down completely and scrub the moving parts (like where the trucks touch the frame) down with 70% alcohol. On the bearings and gears I use 91% alcohol. If the motors commutator is exposed I apply a little CRC 2-26 and turn the motor several times by hand then put power to it and lightly dab away the excess with a piece of paper towel while the motor is running. I then reassemble everything and give it a light lube with Dexron/Mercon transmission oil. It's plastic safe. I've been using it for many years. For the gears I use a small dab of plastic compatible light grease. I usually use whatever type I can find. The kind used on R/C cars works well. Remember that most oils and grease are non-conductive and should be kept out of the pickup path as they can interfere with electrical pickup. I learned that the hard way many years ago. Thanks so much for the advice, Jeffrey! I saved your reply to this thread, as it is, for me, who is a complete bozo when it comes to the innerds of a locomotive, very valuable information. I have many locos that have been sitting in boxes for years. Some of them I have had out lately and I have to say, they don't run very well, (especially the blue box) and I bought them new (some as many as fifteen years ago); they haven't been used much, if at all.
When I get an old loco that needs cleaning (most I get from Ebay need it bad) I tear it down completely and scrub the moving parts (like where the trucks touch the frame) down with 70% alcohol. On the bearings and gears I use 91% alcohol. If the motors commutator is exposed I apply a little CRC 2-26 and turn the motor several times by hand then put power to it and lightly dab away the excess with a piece of paper towel while the motor is running. I then reassemble everything and give it a light lube with Dexron/Mercon transmission oil. It's plastic safe. I've been using it for many years. For the gears I use a small dab of plastic compatible light grease. I usually use whatever type I can find. The kind used on R/C cars works well. Remember that most oils and grease are non-conductive and should be kept out of the pickup path as they can interfere with electrical pickup. I learned that the hard way many years ago.
Yes, the Goo-Gone will in many cases leave a sticky film that attracts more dirt. I've had better luck with a product called Krud-Kutter though it must be cleaned up after as well. On the good side it's non-toxic and biodegradable which is more than I can say for Goo-Gone.
My own experience leads me to suggest that you avoid routinely using Goo Gone (and similar citrus based cleaners) on your track (or wheels) as a basic cleaning agent and save it when there is in fact goo to be made gone (such as after a scenicking session where glue might be splattered). It does seem to leave a film that over time becomes increasingly hard to get off the rails without resorting to scratchy abrasives which are not good for long term conductivity. In other words over time it becomes a goo.
I know that one popular maker of a track cleaning car shows it used with Goo Gone on the little wipes that revolve around a drum and supposedly clean the rails, but even so -- take it easy on the Goo Gone.
Dave Nelson
Thanks Jeffrey!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
What Jeffery has said hits the mark for loco cleaning. As far as cleaning your track, Goo-Gone will work, but wipe it up really good as it can leave a 'film' on the track that will just attract more dirt/crud. Some of the other electrical contact cleaners leave less film on the track. Myself, I use lacquer thinner spread with a CMX track cleaning car. Also, convert your rolling stock to metal wheels - A lot less crud spread around the layout!
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
hon30critterI believe some P2K models were prone to this as well as others. Someone with more knowledge (Jeffrey?) can give you a heads up on which models to watch for gear problems and how to fix them.
What Jeffrey said about keeping the lubricants out of the electrical path is very important. I have recently been working on motorizing a Mack 15 ton critter using a Bachmann 44 tonner motorized truck for power. I cleaned the motor but then decided to try to oil the motor bearing and spacer washers right beside the commutator. Of course some of the oil ran onto the commutator and fowled the brushes. It ran very poorly. I was about to scrap the motor when I noticed that the commutator was partially black. A little touch with a brush and some 99% alcohol and the motor ran perfectly. Once the alcohol had dried I re-lubricated the bearing from the other end, which is what I should have done in the first place. Enough oil will pass through the bearing to get to the spacer washers. Remember that 'more' is not better when applying lubricants.
One other thing to keep in mind is to make sure your track is clean. The fact that it is new doesn't mean it is clean even if it looks nice and shiney.
Depending on which models you have you may also run into cracked gears. When you have the trucks apart it would be a good idea to check the integrity of the gears. I have never had the problem (touch wood) but lots of others have. I believe some P2K models were prone to this as well as others. Someone with more knowledge (Jeffrey?) can give you a heads up on which models to watch for gear problems and how to fix them.
Hey all,
I have a question for you, I have a few, well a large fleet, of loco"s that need cleaning, I have some that I haven't ran for a while, so I wanted to run some of them, when I placed them on the track I had to give them a little encouragement push, as I call it, they would sqeal, when I push them, or not run at all, I KNOW they need cleaning, what should I use as a cleaner, and where do I add the cleaner, I was told that it should be plastic compatible, and what is the best way to clean my loco's, ALSO I've been using GOO GONE to clean my track, is that okay??? thanks, for help in this matter
Thanks Guys n Gals
Trainsrme1 Pete