I've started working on one of my overpass bridges for my layout. This is totally rough and not set yet but at least it shows that I am finally doing something with my little layout. Just a reminder: it is HO scale. See my blog below.
Thanks,
--Zak Gardner
My Layout Blog: http://mrl369dude.blogspot.com
http://zgardner18.rrpicturearchives.net
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Ken:
Nice picture of your 4023. For some reason my 4023 always seems to be in the distant background,here is the clearest shot of it I could find...
I have also had some issues with the headlight - I'll PM you.
Mike
cudaken Karl, is that my answer to my request for a odd consist? If so, what do you want to see? Just for the heck of it. So Karl what do you want to see? Ken By the way, my current odd consist is a E-8 A in the lead, then a a A & B Erie Built and followed by a PA B unit! I am guessing that is a little odd. But then again, there is a prototype for just about everything.
Karl, is that my answer to my request for a odd consist? If so, what do you want to see?
Just for the heck of it.
So Karl what do you want to see?
Ken
By the way, my current odd consist is a E-8 A in the lead, then a a A & B Erie Built and followed by a PA B unit! I am guessing that is a little odd. But then again, there is a prototype for just about everything.
(Ahem....) Ken.... Psst! Wrong thread! This is WPF.....
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
I hate Rust
Wonderful pics by all!!
Allow me to toss out one, of double headed steam past the barn.
Karl
NCE über alles!
Middleman Mike!
Your layout has been in a Magazine right?
Have any pictures of 4023 by chances?
I have my running again.
But cannot get the darn headlight to work! (Older Picture)
It is a PCM, any tips PM me. Number boards work and I have cleaned the pins and plug several times that goes to the headlight. Beginning to think the LED went bad.
middleman,
Thanks for the props. It's a tradeoff between how the diss goes and what I get done on the RR. I go to my "therapy" when I get stuck for inspiration, but I need to spend more time on the diss and less on inspiration some days....
One thing I usually do as a shortcut is that I don't model things I won't see. I do make exceptions, but the armature of the mill is a good example. It was black foamcore hacked and glued with Titebond III until it looked right. It sat there for the better part of a year, then I suddenly was feeling the Force and took a run at it.
Heck, the DL-535E kit sat on the shelf for 15+ years. I hope it's twin doesn't take that long So some projects just seem fast because they have a long gestation period, followed by a flurry of frenzied building as I feel the inspiration to get something done.
mcfunkeymonkey,
Really nice realistic vineyard you have there.I lived in the Rheingau as a teenager, which is different than Cali, but some basic things don't change much between the two places.
I'm a beer guy though, so have been thinking about stringing up some hops instead. A lot like your vineyard, but the poles are a lot taller...
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I've been building & planting a vineyard on my Free-moN "Shoo-fly in Sonoma" module, using small stranded wire, ceramic stucco paste, polyfiber and AMSI ground foam:
Here's the "How-To" video:
Hope this comes in handy, and I look forward to see how others have scratched a vineyard!
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
Thanks for the feedback. The quality of the image is less than desirable. It was late (dark) and used my iphone (i3 version). I know my workbench is lit up more than the image shows.
superbe - I bought some Testors decal paper (i know, i paid to much but it's all they had). The destructions didn't say anything about smooth/glossy surface, but it's worth a try.
twcenterprises - yes, I gave some thought about door decals. I should be able to get something on there.
Guess I need to get busy. Other than isopropyl alcohol and warm/soapy water, any other suggestions as to removing the dullcoat??
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
Great thread again this weekend!
Grampy' Trains: DJ,I hope you"ll do a tutorial thread about the concrete pads in your yard shot - tremendous!
mlehman: I'm amazed at how much you get done from week to week,and high quality work,too...
duckdogger:
ChadLRyan: 'Wish I had your creativity and modeling skills,love your posts!
Dave: I,too, am very sorry for your loss.My heartfelt best wishes to you and your loved ones.
I am currently chasing a new little dog around the house,trying (and failing) to catch the poop before it hits the floor,so no work on the layout this week...here's an old shot...
Dave,I'm very Sorry for your loss & for the reminder, my apologies.
Great stuff , guys!
F units I installed draw bars on crossing Bear creek:
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
PC99 - I am guessing you'll add a company name on the doors as well? Don't forget a "USDOT" number below that. A tiny square (about 3-4 scale inches) can represent an IFTA sticker (these change color every year).
Brad
EMD - Every Model Different
ALCO - Always Leaking Coolant and Oil
CSX - Coal Spilling eXperts
PennCentral99 . Before using a water slide decal, I applied a layer of dullcoat. . I'm open for suggestions/comments. ............ I recently bought some Microscale decals although I haven't installed any yet. The install instructions say for best results install on a glossy painted surface. Maybe you should skip the first dull coat ap. Bob
. Before using a water slide decal, I applied a layer of dullcoat.
. I'm open for suggestions/comments.
............
I recently bought some Microscale decals although I haven't installed any yet. The install instructions say for best results install on a glossy painted surface.
Maybe you should skip the first dull coat ap.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Curt - Thanks for the suggestions. I used slate gray (one of those .99 cent bottles from hobby lobby). After it dried, it looked to dark to me, so I tried "thinning" it with rubbing acohol. Once the "naked eye" thought it looked ok, I sprayed it with dullcoat. The dullcoat actually lightened it even more. I didn't realize this would happen or I would have just left the first "washing" alone. I am learning and having fun.
I like your work and layout too.
PennCentral99- Maybe using a darker grey with just a touch of fine sand mixed in it will give it a used look around the appropriate parts. For dark grey I like acrylic Hippo grey from Jo-Ann's. Just a possible way of doing it. You know I really like your work.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/
Chad!
The 928 copies are excellent! I assume you will paint the tires.
I have to confess that I have a hard time every time I see a Porsche 928. My son bought one when he was 18 and killed himself in it two weeks later. Sorry for the downer.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Some really cool photos so far.
I am trying to decal and weather vehicles. I though I would start with a plain white cement mixer. Since I am in Vegas, I though I would create the "Las Vegas Ready Mix". There are plenty of ready mix companies in Vegas, but none with that name. I thought a pair of dice would be appropriate for the logo. I'm trying for the used, but cared for look.
I tried a dry transfer for the logo. It looked better on the dry transfer sheet than the cement truck, so I removed it and started over. Before using a water slide decal, I applied a layer of dullcoat. I then tried to "wash" the truck lightly with some diluted gray. It's not quite what I was looking for, but it'll do (still have some practicing to do). After the "gray wash", I applied another layer of dullcoat. I also added a garden hose. I'm open for suggestions/comments.
I actually did some modelling today, added details to this..A shortened HO Accurail Autorack kit. The original was 89' now the deck is 73', the removed section is laying in front of the car. It has added details,& is now ready for painting.Today it has one Herpa Porsche 928 S4, & 7 cast resin ones in primer, that represent ones with a car cover on them. That was created by sacrificing one model, & wrapping it with shrink wrap to make a master, & then cast in resin.
G Paine jacon12 I like the kit but I think they could have made the 'brick' columns a bit smaller. Jarrell I built one of those a few years ago, and thought the brick porch does not reallt fit my Maine location. Maybe further South where termites are a problem. The brick colums are maybe twice as thick as they should be. Perhaps better to scratchbuild a porch without all that brick. Grandt Line (I think) makes a nice porch railing detal.
jacon12 I like the kit but I think they could have made the 'brick' columns a bit smaller. Jarrell
Jarrell
I built one of those a few years ago, and thought the brick porch does not reallt fit my Maine location. Maybe further South where termites are a problem. The brick colums are maybe twice as thick as they should be. Perhaps better to scratchbuild a porch without all that brick. Grandt Line (I think) makes a nice porch railing detal.
thanks George. If I build another one I'll keep that in mind.
I got inspired to put the doors on my roundhouse finally. They're Grandt Line #5133 Roundhouse Door Set. You get the doors, which have 5 thin hinges to add. Not included in the kit is piano wire to make the hinge "pin" out of. I used 0.025" spring wire with mine. That's laid next to the hinge side of the door, then the hinge havles are glued on, trapping it. The kit supplies the window mullions, but you supply the "glass."
You bend up the hinge "pin" by putting l-shaped bends in the wire at each end prior to adding the half-hinges. The middle, vertical part of the wire should be slightly longer than the height of the door. I drill a slightly large hole in the door post and slide the wire in without even bothering to glue.
They work well. Thought about automating it, but sounds like a lot of trouble when the loco can just drive through the doors to open them.
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George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Great work everyone, as always!
For this week, PL&M 2-8-0 552 switches at the Chiswell Mining Company's tipple at Bayard, WV.
Have a great weekend, all!
Grampy, your track work and ballast are always excellent.
Combination of pigment, oils, and alcohol to yield some very tired grain cars.
Thanks, Curt. DJ.
Another great modeling scene D.J.
SW7's working the yard. DJ.
The latest HO scale structure I've built, Rix's Maxwell Ave. home. I usually photograph them in this manner after they're done. Well, this one isn't quite done... , needs a little weathering and I think I'll do something about those plain chimney tops. Just haven't decided yet, but I should've done that before gluing them in place.
Oh well.
I like the kit but I think they could have made the 'brick' columns a bit smaller.
Thank you all for the kind compliments!This is actually an older shot, a couple years ago I saw that car topper on the BNSF line South of LaCrosse, WI, on the trip home I tried to get a shot, & you can see that.Then, the search was on for a Kibri Kit I thought I had, well, it turned out it was there, but a dark green cast version, looks OK in the photo, but the yellow didn't really cover all that well. But not that bad..Then after doing research & seeing Excavators on a barge, I decided to freelance an Excavator on it's own flat. A little obsurd, but (i hope) plausible..
I now have to get to work on some NEW models, ha hah..Thanks again!!!!
My Compliments! to all the posters here, thanks for sharing & thanks for inspiring!!Please share some-more, Please!!!