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Spray bottles and glue

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Spray bottles and glue
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 5, 2004 12:04 PM
"OK" all you experienced scenery folks out there I need a little help. I have tried a dozen different spray bottles, lots of different glue percentages ie 50/50,
40/60 and so on, added dishwashing soap, alcohol to the mixture and I'm unable to come up with the secret formula [:(!] Instead of a nice fine misty spray
all I get is uneven spray, drips,blobs and generally a uncontrolable mess. [:(!]
So what's the deal with what's the deal????? is it the spray bottles? the glue
mixture? a combination of both? or don't tell me--------- could it be ME????????
The Harven
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Posted by rexhea on Sunday, September 5, 2004 12:25 PM
I gave up trying to find the "right" sprayer or formula for whiteglue. I did the same as you and still ended up with sputters and spits. Finally I switched to a 5:1 water to Mod-Podge and used an old glass cleaner sprayer. It gives a pretty good mist. You still have a few globs if you don't put a good bit of pressure behind the trigger.

All most forgot. It's better to use warm water with white glue or Mod-Podge for a good mix.[:)]

Rex "Blue Creek & Warrior Railways" http://www.railimages.com/gallery/rexheacock
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Posted by Roadtrp on Sunday, September 5, 2004 12:29 PM
I use Woodland Scenics 'Scenic Cement' and 'Scenic Sprayer' and it works perfectly for me. I suppose it probably costs more than making your own mixture, but it is still quite inexpensive. I guess I would rather pay the extra and have reliably good results.

[:)]
-Jerry
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Posted by cacole on Sunday, September 5, 2004 12:46 PM
Don't try to spray the glue -- dribble it on from an old Elmer's bottle with the orange cap. A sprayer is used for the water/detergent (or rubbing alcohol) pre- and post-glue wetting, but not the the glue itself.

What I do is pre-spray with rubbing alcohol to thoroughly moisten the area, then dribble the glue on, followed by another spraying to insure that the glue penetrates.
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Posted by twhite on Sunday, September 5, 2004 12:56 PM
I agree with Cacole. I've tried everything in a spray bottle, even the Woodland Scenics which they say is supposed to be glob-proof. The drip-method takes a lot more time and patience, but at least you won't be stuck with those weird globs on your scenery that you have to explain away--I colored a few of mine brown and put a few scale cows nearby. Got a few chuckles out of THAT one.
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Posted by Roadtrp on Sunday, September 5, 2004 1:21 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

I've tried everything in a spray bottle, even the Woodland Scenics which they say is supposed to be glob-proof.

Did you use the Woodland Scenics cement AND the Woodland Scenics spray bottle?

I've truly never had a problem with globs. I use Elmer's dispensed from its bottle and spread around with my finger for the base coat. Then I sprinkle the ground foam over the Elmer's glue. I finish up with a sprayed coat of the Woodland Scenics cement dispensed from the Woodland Scenics spray bottle over the top. That method has always worked well for me.
-Jerry
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Posted by willy6 on Sunday, September 5, 2004 2:02 PM
I would like to add a glue comment, It might be me, but I noticed when comes to Elmers, the white "school glue" is different from the "general purpose" Elmers. The school glue seems to be watery and does not stick as good. As far as sprayers,I tried them all including Woodland Scenics.............same ole story, blobs and messes.Now I use them eye dropper looking things made by Testors.
Being old is when you didn't loose it, it's that you just can't remember where you put it.
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Sunday, September 5, 2004 2:13 PM
The mix has to be pretty thin to spray. I have done it both ways, spray and dribble, and both work just fine. Your goal should be to not disturb the ballast as you apply the glue. WHATEVER WORKS!!![swg]
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 5, 2004 2:22 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by willy6

I would like to add a glue comment, It might be me, but I noticed when comes to Elmers, the white "school glue" is different from the "general purpose" Elmers. The school glue seems to be watery and does not stick as good. As far as sprayers,I tried them all including Woodland Scenics.............same ole story, blobs and messes.Now I use them eye dropper looking things made by Testors.


I read somewhere (perhaps on this forum) that school glue is different from regular white glue - it is water soluble when dried. So the little kiddies can get it out of their clothes! Regular glue is not water soluble when dried. Don't know if this makes any difference in its use in our hobby for scenery.

Bob Boudreau
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 9:13 AM
Almost any of the spray bottles will work well, IF you mix the white glue properly! I had lots of the same clogging issues with dilute white glue until I had a brain storm (drizzle?): heat the mixture! Heating it (less than a minute in a microwave) works the same way as cooking anything: it blends the ingredients smoothly. Just plopping white glue into water and shaking is going to leave blobs which will clog up the sprayer; heating the mix and (later) adding some rubbing alcohol as a wetting agent will mostly get rid of any clumps.

You do get strange looks from your wife when you say you're nuking glue......

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 10:10 AM
Orsonroy, it's funny you mentioned that. I tried and still use the microwave method and second that it works. I use dribble method too but was also having problems and tried the same thing you did. It does produce good results!
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Posted by johncolley on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 10:29 AM
For the wetting agent I find that a good plant mister works the best. Then use the dropper method to dribble the thinned glue mixture. Don't try to spray it!
jc5729
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Posted by johncolley on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 10:31 AM
oops! Also, dribble the glue mix on the ties after all the ballast is thouroughly wetted. Don't try to dribble glue onto the ballast, it will move globs around on you.
jc5729
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 11:59 AM
I gave up trying this after ruining two (luckily they were cheap) spray bottles and ending up with ballast that moves if you prod it - not much use on a portable layout! I now use the old washing up liquid/PVA glue mixture, mixed in a small quantity, and applied with a syringe minus the needle - I got mine from an old computer print cartridge refill kit, though as I'm unsure where I'd find another I have to carefully wash it out each time!

I find the best approach is to "flood" a small area with the mixture, so the ballast looks wet, then leave to dry for a day or so - using this method I have created rock-hard ballasting and gravel roadways - for some reason, the mix also tones down the colour of the ballast and improves the look of it.

This takes time, but is far less messy than a spray bottle and you can do small amounts of work at a time (I find one small glass jar of the mix lasts until I get bored doing scenic work and want to do something else)!
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Posted by darth9x9 on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 2:19 PM
Wow, nuking glue...just when I thought I had seen it all. I gotta try it now!!!

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
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Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

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Posted by mondotrains on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 8:04 PM
Hi Guys,
I had one of those "Duh" moments some time ago. I had bought one of those little glass eyedroppers at a pharmacy that are used for medicines and wondered why it was taking so long to dribble my glue on ballast and the like. Then, I discovered a much larger, PLASTIC eyedropper (it's around 4 inches long and has a removable squeeze top so its easy to wash out when you're through). It probably holds 10 times the glue but still has a small pointed end, allowing for careful placement. I think it cost 99 cents at the pharmacy and considering the reduced number of "trips" to the glue bottle, it was well worth the investment.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

Mondo
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Posted by Roadtrp on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 10:39 PM
Just a note...

The original post here said NOTHING about applying glue to ballast. I certainly agree (rookie that I am) that an eyedropper is the preferred way to apply glue to ballast.

I thought the poster was asking a more general question about the use of spray bottles when making scenery.

[:)]
-Jerry
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Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 10:55 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

Hi Guys,
I had one of those "Duh" moments some time ago. I had bought one of those little glass eyedroppers at a pharmacy that are used for medicines and wondered why it was taking so long to dribble my glue on ballast and the like. Then, I discovered a much larger, PLASTIC eyedropper (it's around 4 inches long and has a removable squeeze top so its easy to wash out when you're through). It probably holds 10 times the glue but still has a small pointed end, allowing for careful placement. I think it cost 99 cents at the pharmacy and considering the reduced number of "trips" to the glue bottle, it was well worth the investment.

Hope this helps.
Mondo




Being in O gauge, even the large eye dropper would take too long. If you can use a light touch, a TURKEY BASTER works well. Just don't steal the one from the kitchen, get your own!!! [swg]
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 8, 2004 11:54 AM
Way to go Roadtrp!!!!!!!! that was my original question, [;)]for spraying scenery
stuff, you know ground foam and the like. I do use the eyedropper method for
track ballast (the only way, right???)
Thanks for everybodys input tho.[:)][:)]
The Harven

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