Like GN_FAN, I layed one of the Detail Associates curved grabs with the "legs-up" on the side of the caboose, moving it around until it looked good to me. Using a set of simple dividers from a draughting set, I adjusted the points and, using the sill as a guide for one leg of the dividers, lightly scribed a very short horizontal line along the area where the hole for each leg was to be drilled. With the dividers reset, and using the car's end as a guide for one point, short, intersecting vertical lines were scribed to indicate the exact location for drilling. I was then an easy matter to use these initial lines to reset the dividers in order to mark the other three corners of the caboose, ensuring that all would be at the same height and same distance from the car's ends.
The modified Athearn car shown above was a warm-up for 10 or 12 mostly scratchbuilt cabooses yet to be built, and this layout technique should serve well to keep these details uniform.
Wayne
Actually, Detail Associates makes curved caboose grabs. In the past, I have fashioned these but it is difficult and tedious work, trying to get consistent size and shape. I was relieved when I came across these for my next caboose project, which I am presently working on. they are Detail Associates No. 6503. Hope this helps.
There are templates out there for ordinary grab irons (BLMA has them for N and HO for example) but I do not recall templates for the caboose curved grabs. It might be that some craftsman kits had paper templates for that purpose.
A template as I am thinking of it would need to not only indicate the accurate distance between the two holes but would also have tabs that would control exactly where those holes would be drilled compared to the ends/sides and bottom of the caboose. So in a sense you may well be talking about a different template or set of templates for each type of model -- a Mantua bobber would be different than a Bachmann or Quality Craft or whatever. If you have a fleet of identical cabooses then one template set might do it. Otherwise you may be looking at a template set for each model. You'd be looking at a couple of templates per model. No wait a minute. Thinking more closely the template for the ends might differ from the sides, so you now you may be talking four templates per caboose.
Historically shim brass was used for this because it is easy to bend (around the end and floor for example), easy to mark, easy to drill into with accuracy, and the hole tends not to enlarge each time you put a drill bit into the hole. But that was also back in the day when the average modeler had a supply of shim brass readily available for other projects.
Dave Nelson
I've had some really old Mantua 4 wheel bobbers for 40+ years and decided to redo them. I cut off the molded on grabs and got it is smooth as I could. The pre-bent grabs I used were more or less the same configuration as the molded on ones, so I turned the grab upside down so that the bent ends pointed up, then eyeballed one end and drilled the hole. I then inserted the end in the hole without glue, then eyeballed the other end and drilled the hole. It worked out pretty good, and that method also worked for the roof grabs on top of the cupola. Once you've done one, the rest go pretty easy.
I don't actually remember any drilling/ locating templates of a general nature except those supplied w/ resin kits. Most brands of caboose will have either molded on, NBW casting or already fitted w/ plastic or metal curved grabs.
You can easilly fabricate a simple template from styrene (preferably clear for locating purposes) or even cut out from the clear packing used most often. The actual placement will vary somewhat from model/ version of each particular caboose. I assume that you are using preformed curved grabs Detail Assoc, Tichy etc. These grabs will show you the drilling location simply by laying on the styrene, marking w/ sharp #11 blade then drill out. You can also use the corner of the styrene to locate the lower corner. To find the location, either dry fit and check by eye or measure from a sample w/ molde or installed grabs. This may end up w/ a generic location but will work. Most times, I will just measure the upper and drill out, fit one leg and swing the grab to the appropriate location, mark and drill.
A #11 xacto blade is a great marking and light spinnings will dimple the surface for drilling w/o any bit walking.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Does anyone know if someone makes a template for drilling holes for curved caboose grab irons? I know there are locomotive sets available, it's the curved grab irons that really intimidate me. I could have sworn that years ago there were templates available, but, then again, my memory isn't quite what it used to be so I *might* be remembering incorrectly.