QUOTE: Originally posted by chutton01 QUOTE: Originally posted by DSchmitt QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue. Thanks, Mondo It works and it's probably less expensive too. Do you mean the Tacky Glue cuts nicely with a knife, and doesn't snag or rip like the masking solution (which is NOT supposed to snag, but does anyway even with a new blade)? If so I'll head out to Michael's Crafts tomorrow, but I rather not get burned again (the first time being the masking solution)
QUOTE: Originally posted by DSchmitt QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue. Thanks, Mondo It works and it's probably less expensive too.
QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains I have to admit I didn't try cutting the edges because I found the Tacky glue filled the space right up to the edge of the window frames, giving me a nice, neat edge when I pulled the dry Tacky Glue out. I didn't know there was a "professional" liquid masking material available and therefore used the Tacky Glue. Thanks, Mondo
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QUOTE: Originally posted by chutton01 My question is - how sharp are the resulting edges? I can spread glue around with the best of them, but even the best of them tend to get an erose, ragged glue-edge. Have you tried to obtain a sharp edge by trimming the glue (after it dries) with a sharp X-acto knife (using, say, the window frame as a cutting guide). If so, how does it look, and does it cut easily? I bring this up because I have a bottle of 'professional' masking liquid (i.e. designed specifically for masking patterns on model planes and cars, and yes, trains), and even with brand new blades this stuff tears and pulls, giving me a useless, erose, ragged edge. Crud!
QUOTE: Originally posted by SWchief Before I even opened this thread, my first thought was "use white glue?" We must think alike - scary, eh? LOL While I use the Aileen's stuff (and just used some last night for a Campbell's kit I'm working on) I'll bet the Elmer's or generic white glue would work just as well and might even be easier to remove than the supe tacky stuff. I don't know this for a fact, though, because I haven't tried it yet. Thanks for this excellent tip and the ideas it caused! Enjoy the hobby, Greg
QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45 Impressive! I recently acquired another Bachmann HO Metroliner shell off of E-Bay. Removing the windows is a nightmare! On the other 4 cars I winded up having to "break them" off in pieces. In the process I slightly damaged the body on one of the metroliners. I've decided to keep the windows intact on this new unit, but I'm going to repaint it in Penn Central. (Metalizing Method with the Alclad ). Your method sounds like it could fit the job in this case. Thanks!
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