KD's are the best way to go from the start. Highly recommended. I've also replaced many RTR with other couplers with KD's always the right move. KD is the defacto standard period. On the others you get what you pay for.
PW
MarkVIIIMarc I am running HO scale and would like to pick a decent type of coupler that can work with automatic unhooking devices at sometime in the future if possible. To this point my rolling stock is rather inexpensive kit stuff and came with some kind of terrible coupler I have replaced with Model Power Magnetic Knuckler with metal springs. They are described as Center Shank-Medium. They were available at my LHS, were reasonably priced, and looked like those which were on most of the new locomotives on the shelf. Before I get too big an investment, what should I pick? Thank you very much.
I am running HO scale and would like to pick a decent type of coupler that can work with automatic unhooking devices at sometime in the future if possible.
To this point my rolling stock is rather inexpensive kit stuff and came with some kind of terrible coupler I have replaced with Model Power Magnetic Knuckler with metal springs. They are described as Center Shank-Medium. They were available at my LHS, were reasonably priced, and looked like those which were on most of the new locomotives on the shelf.
Before I get too big an investment, what should I pick?
Thank you very much.
The Kadee Magnematic is the coupler of choice in HO. All metal, very strong, couples for just banging two cars together, will uncouple automatically with a magnetic ramp set between the rails. Looks like a real coupler. Assuming you have equalized coupler heights between all your cars, it stays coupled. Cost is about $2 a pair, and last time I visited my not so local hobby shop, the competitors were about the same. In other words it doesn't cost much, if any, more to buy Kadee's, so why not buy the best?
Kadee's came on the market better than 50 years ago and have been a steady favorite. The Kadee patents finally expired in the '90s and other makers (McHenry for one) started selling clone couplers. Clones look like Kadee's, intermate with Kadee's, and are mostly molded in virgin plastic. Many of them have the knuckle closing spring molded in one piece with the coupler itself. These molded plastic finger springs are subject to breakage or taking a set. Kadee's and the better clones have a tiny bronze coil spring to close the knuckle which is far superior.
I buy and spiff up a fair number of el cheapo train show cars. If the car has working knuckle couplers I leave them on. When they break I replace them with Kadee's. If the car has the old horn hook couplers or something else strange that won't intermate, it gets Kadee's right away.
Kadee's come in 100 different flavors. Most common is the #5 which fits the vast majority of freight cars. The #5 is somewhat over size, and you can use the #58 which is closer to scale size. But being smaller, the #58 requires more attention to coupler height matching than the standard #5. And the #148 whisker coupler is a modern replacement for the #5 that eliminates the need for the separate bronze coupler centering spring making installation a tad easier. All the rest of the Kadee line are special jobs to fit odd pieces of rolling stock, locomotives, and passenger cars. Although it is said that you can warp a #5 coupler into anything that rolls, checking the Kadee "what-fits-what" list will save you a good deal of hacking and filing and shimming and cussing.
Hot chassis locomotives want electrically insulating couplers to prevent short circuits when double heading. Many (but not all) HO locomotives are hot chassis.
If you find the Kadee gladhands are flying too low and catching on turnouts & crossovers, it's a good bet the entire coupler is low. All the Athearn Blue Box freight cars need a washer under each truck to bring the couplers up to proper height.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
It is the #178.
Samuel A. Kelly
I can draw pictures with my keyboard!
-------- ( It's a worm)
What number coupler and box are those? With the scale head metal couplers you use the #242 or #178 gear boxes. Are you thinking of the #178? I don't think I've ever used one of those.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Jeff, I was talking about the "scale" gear box.
sakel yes, like a whisker gear box would not fit a no.5, and also bachmann gear boxes are to thin for a kadee.
yes, like a whisker gear box would not fit a no.5, and also bachmann gear boxes are to thin for a kadee.
Some cars need different couplers then others though right? like a #5 wont work on all freight cars and engines correct?
I would recomend kadee "wisker" couplers, the do not require a cenrering spring which, in my case, always gets bent out of shape.
I have a "new car service" ritual. It consists of:
My tenet is "if it's not Kadee, it WILL be".
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Intermountain and Exactrail have Kadees as their standard couplers now. I sure wish the other manufacturers would follow.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Even with all the advice above, you may still be considering brands other then Kadee to save some money. Let me relate a few experiences so you can benefit from my mistakes.
Couplers that have a cast in spring to close the knuckle are a failure waiting to happen. The separate coil spring that Kadee uses take a bit of skill to replace if they ever come out (not a common occurrence), but are reliable and rugged.
Years ago I bought some of the first Walthers Superliners and like to run an 11 car train of them at our club. They came with EZ Mates, so I used them. On one of our big hills (we have a 5 turn helix), the train would constantly uncouple on the upgrade. I checked coupler height, rigidity of mounting, etc, everything was good. I finally got down to observe, and when they uncoupled, the coupler shanks were actually twisting under load, allowing the couplers to lift out of each other. I replaced them with Kadee 40 series (metal couplers with different shank styles), set them to proper height, end of problem.
They may be more expensive than other brands, but I’m the type to go with what’s proven to work reliably.
I use the Kadee #119 shelf coupler. It's a full shelf coupler and can be converted to a lower shelf coupler which is what's used on many modern cars today. To make the conversion just cut the upper shelf off. It's as easy as falling off a log. These couplers stay coupled even on rough track which I have plenty of so I know what I'm talking about. They uncouple well over a magnetic uncoupler. I don't use uncoupling magnets so I uncouple them with a small screwdriver which only takes a couple of seconds.
If it's not a Kadee it's not worth the time or money.
I have used Kadees in 3 scales (HO, S, O) and always been happy with them.
Enjoy
Paul
Hi!
WOW, what terrific response!
I remember in the early '70s doing my best to convert all the rolling stock to KDs. They were a tad expensive, but you really did get what you paid for. I still have many of those same cars/couplers and I can honestly say I've never had a KD fail.
I have tried a few other brands, and of course got them on RTR cars I bought. Sooner or later, I got rid of them for they just didn't give the same performance as the KDs.
Oh, your comment of "kit cars" sounds like you are referring to Athearn "blue box" kits. IMHO, they are one of the backbones of the hobby, and with KDs, metal wheelsets, Dull-Cote, and some light weathering, they are great layout cars!
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I agree with everyone that Kadee couplers are the best. And I still wonder why all cars are not equipped with those in the first place.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Forget everything other thhan Kadees!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I third, fourth adn fifth the Kadee couplers for GREAT service.
If yuo get equipment without KaDees, Here is KaDees own conversion chart:
http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
it will bring up a PDF file with the recommended conversions to KaDee couplers and if you follow the above tutorial, you will be off and running.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Here are some hopefully helpful hints for you on knuckle couplers....
John R.
Gidday Marc, while I've used Bachmann E-Z Mate Mk ll couplers, I'd go along with the top two recommendations, though the Kadee Height gauge also works for the Bachmann E-Z mates.
Here"s a link to Kadees site
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm
If you look at the HO Scale-Couplers, you will also find a "Conversion List", Conversion How-To's,and a HO Coupler chart.
Have fun,
Cheers,the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I definitely suggest getting a Kadee coupler height gage as well. This will insure that all of your couplers are mounted at the same & correct height
Marc,
Kadee #5s are generally the standard coupler, made of metal, and hearty. I actually like and prefer their #58s because they are closer to prototype size.
Whatever coupler you decide to choose, Kadees are worth the investment. Along with couplers, I'm a believer in metal wheel sets, too. There are a number of good brands to choose from.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.