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How do you build your kits?

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:22 PM
Both 2&3, but very soon it will be 2, 3, and 4. [:)]


uspscsx
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Posted by Tracklayer on Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:42 PM
I've built a few kits, and have always done so according to the instructions without altering them. I still have as of yet to try weathering, but am sure I eventually will.

Tracklayer
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:34 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe

I replace the couplers if they come with X2Fs or Accumates.

06archerd, why are you bringing all these old polls back?[%-)]


In a way I think it's a smarter way to reha***he old polls maybe, since some have complained that it's been asked, polled before, maybe resurrecting the old thread is more efficent, unless he is sitting back 2004 and answering [}:)]
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Posted by espeefoamer on Sunday, August 28, 2005 5:23 PM
Numbers 1 or 2.Newer cars with knuckle couplers get built as they come.Horn hooks from older kits get tossed and replaced.
Ride Amtrak. Cats Rule, Dogs Drool.
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Sunday, August 28, 2005 4:08 PM
All of mine get metal wheels if they don't have them and KD couplers.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by TrainFreak409 on Sunday, August 28, 2005 3:43 PM
I haven't bought any kits yet for N scale. The majority is all Ready To Run stuff. I would definately want to convert them to knuckle couplers, and better wheelsets.

Scott - Dispatcher, Norfolk Southern

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Sunday, August 28, 2005 3:15 PM
Other.

Since no cars fit my time period and road name, I strip and paint them. They all get Kaydees and metal wheels. AS soon as I work out how to get white lettering on them the will be lettered and lightly weathered.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by modelmaker51 on Sunday, August 28, 2005 3:07 PM
For authentic weathering, I put new cars out on my deck and leave them for about 3 months. They don't run real well, but they sure look good! [:D]

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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Posted by Fergmiester on Sunday, August 28, 2005 3:05 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe

I replace the couplers if they come with X2Fs or Accumates.

06archerd, why are you bringing all these old polls back?[%-)]


He's a Renaissance Man!

It's good to see some of the old posts come back, especially for all the Newbies. It's also interesting to see how opinions change as new products come out.

Fergie

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If one could roll back the hands of time... They would be waiting for the next train into the future. A. H. Francey 1921-2007  

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Posted by DrummingTrainfan on Sunday, August 28, 2005 3:04 PM
I'm options one and two. I replace the couplars -sometimes- besides that it's whatever was included in the kit.
    GIFs from http://www.trainweb.org/mccann/offer.htm -Erik, the displaced CNW, Bears, White Sox, Northern Illnois Huskies, Amtrak and Metra fan.
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Sunday, August 28, 2005 3:00 PM
I replace the couplers if they come with X2Fs or Accumates.

06archerd, why are you bringing all these old polls back?[%-)]

_________________________________________________________________

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Posted by Fergmiester on Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:52 PM
Every car gets KD'd
Every Car gets metal wheels

It makes a big difference in performance and keeping the track clean. Drag is reduced by at least 30%

I don't care what anyone else says. Plastic couplers break and loose there "memory" (ability to stay closed)

Fergie

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If one could roll back the hands of time... They would be waiting for the next train into the future. A. H. Francey 1921-2007  

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 28, 2005 2:47 PM
KD's and Metal wheel sets on everthing and sometimes lift bars, and air hoses
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 2, 2004 4:44 PM
2,3,4.
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Posted by BRAKIE on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 3:11 PM
Regardless of brand the first thing I do is check to see if the floor and frame is warp.Then I paint the frame,weight,flooring and truck frames.I then built the kit...I add P2K wheel sets in Athearn trucks for replacement wheels and truck frames and add and adjust the KD couplers..
Note: On BranchLine's Yardmaster series I also check the roof to make sure its not warp...

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

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Posted by twhite on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 10:49 AM
first thing I do is replace the wheelsets with Proto or Kadee. Second thing is kadee couplers. Third thing is putting them at the head end of a long train to see if they need extra weight to track. Fourth thing is put on a pot of coffee if 1,2 and 3 worked out. I have about 87 boxes of weathering chalk that I haven't tapped yet, because I tried weathering a car about ten years ago and it turned out so bad that I turned it upside down and put it at the bottom of my Yuba River Canyon as a wreck that was too much trouble for the railroad to reclaim.
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 8:01 AM
Actually, I've got very few shake the box kits left these days. Over the past five years or so, I've been buying almost nothing but Atlas, Intermountain, Red Caboose, P2K, Westerfield, Sunshine and F&C, all of which are highly detailed cars (and except for Atlas and IM, relatively involved kits). My STB purchases have been restricted to Bowser PRR cars, which all get metal handrails and proto-specific details like cut levers and new running boards (where necessary), Accurail cars lettered for correct prototypes, which then get the same treatment as the Bowser cars, and Roundhouse cars that I kitbash/superdetail into specific prototypes (and those cars are only wood cabooses and passenger cars). Everything on my layout gets P2K wheelsets and Kadee #58s.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by simon1966 on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 7:48 AM
I have always installed Kaydee's. After about a year I started to weigh and adjust the wieght to NMRA standards. (I need to go back and do this to a number of cars). I just purchased Proto wheels and will start to replace these as well. Most all cars are weathered with inks, and chalks. The odd one goes under the airbrush as well.

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

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Posted by tomwatkins on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 7:25 AM
I normally replace the couplers and trucks with Kadees, after polishing the wheel treads with a wire brush in a dremel tool. I'll usually replace the grabs and ladders with thinner ones. Then add weight to bring them up to NMRA standards and weather them with washes and chalks.

Have fun,
Tom Watkins
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 7:11 AM
It probably makes no difference in the overall results, but I clicked detail and should have click 2, 3 & 4. [:)]

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Posted by cspmo on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 5:04 AM
I weather them, put semi-scale wheelsets,&Kadee # 58 couplers
Brian
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 4:52 AM
Generally I replace plastic wheelsets into metal wheelsets (KD, Proto and Jay-Bee).
And I bring the weight to NMRA standard.

Trucks I replace sometimes.

I run long, and so heavy, trains. When the Bachmann E-Z coupler operate I do not replace them. [:)]

Some cars I had superdetailed but not much.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 12:18 AM
i replace the couplers with kadees, althought i still have a few cars with the bachmann cheesy-mates that they came with. as long as they continue to opperate fine i dont really care. i've replaced the wheles on a few, but that costs money which i dont have. i've weathered a few cars, but never played much with it yet.
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Posted by ericsp on Monday, August 30, 2004 11:54 PM
I do options 1, 2, or 4.

"No soup for you!" - Yev Kassem (from Seinfeld)

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Posted by Jetrock on Monday, August 30, 2004 9:57 PM
Kadees, Intermountain wheels, dust, grime and shmutz as applicable, weighting to slightly above NMRA recommendations.
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Posted by AggroJones on Monday, August 30, 2004 9:52 PM
Kadee couplers, IM or P2K wheels, and sometimes new grab irons. Too light cars are give more weight in the form of steel sheets or BB bullet.

And of course a dose of vitamin W.

"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 30, 2004 8:43 PM
Kadees, Metal wheelsets, starting on stirrups. Of course, I don't usually buy shake-the-box anymore, preferring Resin & craftsman kits.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 30, 2004 8:29 PM
I put KD's and metal wheelsets (also from Kadee), then I make sure the car is up to NMRA weight. I usually by cars from Red Caboose, IM, P2K, Bowser, and Branchlineso I don't bother detailing them.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 30, 2004 8:23 PM
I thin down the stirup steps, mount the weight inside and bump weight up to NMRA standards. I paint the under carrage and truck frames with roof brown. I weather with both paints and chalks. I install and tune/level Kadee number fives and replace wheelsets with P2K metal wheels.

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