An old topic:Cleaning track, changing wheel sets.

[Anonymous]

Metal sets do provide greater free rolling ability & if you wish, longer trains

[selector]

Thanks for providing me with a list of alternatives, fellas.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by waltersrails

Would it be better just to have all cars with metal wheels?

Walter,

Some may argue with this point, but generally yes!

Tracks generally stay cleaner when metal wheels are employed. Does it still get dirty? Yes it does, but not as severely or quickly as when plastic wheels are utilized. Even on my test track my metal wheels will build up a thin layer of grime, but it wipes off easily with a cloth soaked with alcohol.

Most modelers that have metal wheels on their freight car fleets converted them slowly, as their budgets allowed.

[cmrproducts]

Any metla polish will work! You do not have to yse the MAAS or Flitz! I have used Blue Magic (wal-maet)(Liquid) and Mothers Mag Wheel polish (Wal-mart).

What we are after is the polishing and wax coating it leaves. This is what keeps the rails from getting dirty. The wax coating must repel dirt as I am in the process of doing scenery and the trains just keep on running with just a dry cloth run on the rains after cleaning up the scenery mess.

I am now 2 years into the NO rail cleaning. It is GREAT!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

Perhaps "FLITZ", a similar & slightly more expensive is a excellent substitute.
Check out your local hardware stores.

Customer Service USA/CANADA, 1-800-558-8611
www.flitz.com

THANK YOU MR-January 2003

[waltersrails]

Would it be better just to have all cars with metal wheels?

[selector]

I am five months into running trains on my new layout, and have a lone BLI 4-6-4 and a P2K 0-6-0. Neither loco exhibits the slightest inclination to hesitate or to cut out on sound. I have yet to clean the tracks.

On the one occasion that my P2K acted intermittently, I determined that it was overspray of Dull-Coat. I used Goof-Off for that job and have had no recurring problems in the four month interval.

If I could find MAAS at Walmart up here in Canada, I'd certainly give it a go. Except for the fumes, I'd use nothing but acetone. It is the product used most often to prep surfaces for priming and painting.

[AntonioFP45]

DuPont 3812s works well, but it's usually sold in automotive paint stores. One would have to find a store that sells to the regular public (some only sell to body repair or licensed businesses). [;)]

3812s has an odor, but as mentioned, it evaporates quickly. IMHO, it's better than using Lacquer thinner. An alternative to 3812s is the DuPont 3939 which is water based and a little safer.

As for wheels.........Plastic? Never again! Most of my freight car fleet have P2K wheels.

[Anonymous]

In my original post I should have explained the types of locomotives I am, currently, running and their tempermental operation. I am runnig different models of Broadway Limited products. I am running them on DC, not, DCC. Although my track is wired for DCC, I have not yet bought any of these systems. My track has 22 ga; single strand feeders, soldered, every 3 ft. These feeders are soldered to 14ga; single strand, buss wires. I use, MRC; Control Master 20, transformer. I find these Broadway's tend to start hesitating and slowing down, if the track isn't , very, very clean. Their wheels, must also, be kept very clean. Thus my posting of this original topic. A "long time" running on clean track, for me using the "Broadway"s" is a couple of month's, running the trains over 300' of track, at least 10 times a day, 5 days a week. ( My layout is in the office of my auto-body repair facility. I run the trains for my customer's as well as for my own enjoyment.) I, do realize, everyone's layout is different and "a long time" depends on many different variables. I have found that my Proto 2000 locomotives, seem to run, just fine on the same tracks, the Broadway's, hesitate and slow down on. Apparently, the electronics, are more tempermental in some products, than others. I am looking forward to Life-Like Products, introduction of their sound equipped E-6's. I f they perform as well as their non-sound units, they should be, terrific! Time will tell. The Proto 2000's I have now, seem to run on my tracks, clean, or soiled, indefinitely.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts

richarddschivley

So just how long is (a long, long time)?

Over half of my rolling stock has the so called (bad plastic wheels) on them and I only have to metal poli***he track once a year, whether it needs it or not. We operate the layout every other week

Since I do not like to clean track or wheels, only run trains, I changed to using metal polish once a year.

But if you are tired of having to continuously have to clean the track keep on doing things modelers of done for decades.

BOB H Clarion, PA

There are many-many reasons that contribute to the frequency of cleaning track.
Oxidation, Organic contamination, external contamination & environmental.

Wonder what method, if any, is used over at the Chicago MSI?

[MAbruce]

I also switched to MAAS polish. I don't have a large layout, and only a couple of harder to reach areas, so cleaning by hand will not take too long. But I can go months between cleanings (4-5 months in my longest stretch so far).

[cmrproducts]

richarddschivley

So just how long is (a long, long time)?

Over half of my rolling stock has the so called (bad plastic wheels) on them and I only have to metal poli***he track once a year, whether it needs it or not. We operate the layout every other week

Since I do not like to clean track or wheels, only run trains, I changed to using metal polish once a year. And it is not an easy thing as I have over 2700 ft of track and some is hidden.

But there are those modelers that just love to spend money on cleaning cars instead of more rolling stock, buildings, etc. That is your choice! I threw all mine away.

But if you are tired of having to continuously have to clean the track keep on doing things modelers of done for decades. But if you have moved into the DCC age then move into the no cleaning car age and use metal polish.

Take it from someone that likes to operate a layout not clean track!

BOB H Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

I did own both the Centerline & Tonys Clean Machine & IMO of the two,
Tony's is far the better of the two.
Since my layout no longer needs the services of Tony, I manually clean both track & wheels with the MAAS paste cleaner

[Anonymous]

After reading all the posts relative to my topic, I would like to share my "cleaning" experiences. I have tried many track cleaning systems, as well as manual labor (bright-boy, polishes, etc.) and I find using, "Tony's Train Exchange", track cleaning car, "CMX-The Clean Machine", works best, for me. Especially, where access to tracks are at best, limited. I add DuPont, 3812S, fast dry, enamel reducer to my cleaning car. ( I own and operate an autobody repair business.) It contains aggressive cleaning agents, preferred by many, to COMPLETELY clean my tracks. This product contains acetone, toluene, isopropyl alcohol, ethylbenzene, petroleum naphtha and xylene. Because of the small amount dripping onto the cleaning pad, the odor is very minimal. However, I would suggest safety first, good ventilation and be aware you are using a flammable chemical. The fast drying enamel evaporates quickly, thus limiting the amount you might smell. I run the car backwards, with a locomotive that has clean wheel sets. Once it has gone around 10-12 times, I remove the cleaning pad and add another clean one. Don't forget to clean the wheels of the engine and track cleaning car, being used for this project, first, (during the cleaning process, small amounts of residue , do, appear on these wheel sets). Again, I run the cleaning car first, followed by the locomotive, for several more times around the layout. When I check the track, ( white cloth test ), and find no "black" on it, I cease cleaning. Next, comes the cleaning of the locomotive and cars I will be running on the cleaned track. I use a 3' piece of track on it's own, 1"x4" board, soldered 22 ga; single strand wire with alligator clips that attach to the tracks, for power. I fold a piece of "Bounty" paper towel in half, lay it over a section of the "cleaning track", dribble some enamel reducer on it with a ear syringe. Place the locomotive, (one set of trucks at a time), on the wet paper towel, the other trucks on the powered track and let the cleaning process begin. Then, turn the locomotive around and do the next set trucks until all are clean. For steam tenders and rolling stock, simply wet some paper towel laid across the track and run them, by hand, back and forth. Shift the paper towel and continue running each car until there is no more residue on the towel. Once all this is accomplished, I find I can run my consists a long, long time before cleaning is needed again. Which brings me to some other points........I use Proto 2000 wheel sets on all my rolling stock. They are "bright", steel wheel sets, which have no coatings on them. Example: I had used Kadee, 520 Freight Sets and found out through use and discussions, on this forum, they would leave a residue coating which had been applied to them at the manufacturing point. Plastic wheels............"GOOD GRIEF"........... they really make a mess of your tracks. I have over 300 pieces of rolling stock and learned the hard way that Proto 2000, was the way to go. Long ago, I learned I should run metal wheels and thought Kadee was the way to go. I wish I had the money back I had spent on all those Kadee's I threw away! Bottom line......It's a lenghty task to clean your tracks thoroughly, then all your cars, but the "length-of-use" is worth it!! Proper equipment is, essential!