duckdogger I do not have any issues with the Micro Mark product. Silly me, didn't realize MEK could be a stand alone cement, if I understood the earlier post correctly. I know MEK is in Pliobond and it is good for cleaning the micro tips but my ACE only sells it by the gallon.
I do not have any issues with the Micro Mark product.
Silly me, didn't realize MEK could be a stand alone cement, if I understood the earlier post correctly. I know MEK is in Pliobond and it is good for cleaning the micro tips but my ACE only sells it by the gallon.
My Ace Hardware sells MEK in quart cans. I saved the Plastruct bottle and refill it when it gets empty. If you can get in gallon cans, just think how much that much modeler's cement would cost if you bought the same quantity.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Pro weld, I have a case and I have tried all the rest too but I guess it depends on the exact plastic you use too.
Shop around and find Tenax where ever you can. It's the best stuff around.
see ya
Bob
Looks like I have the wrong stuff to be an equivalent product. It looks like the Plastruct Bondene is their product that is closest to Tenax.
Guess I'll save this for those times when I need a longer work time. And make a mental note to use a small paintbrush instead of microbrushes for application. Guess it all comes down to different percentages of MEK and the other solvents used - I've left a microbrush sitting in the jar of Tenax and it never softened.
I guess until I get to some really big plastic structures, I'm not too worried about cost. Despinte over 100 kits in the past few years, I'd still be on the saem bottle of Tenax if I hadn;t knocked one over one night workign in a hotel room. Luckily it missed the model, and when I set it back up there was still enough to finish what I was working on, or it would have been a boring rest of the week. On a gross price per ounce, it's insane, but what would I do with a full pint of MEK sitting around, besides have it evaoporate if the lid wasn't tight, or be a fire hazard? Perhaps I'll change my mind when I get to the cement plant and need a LOT of solvent.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Even the original ProWeld (marketed by Ambroid) is a better deal than Tenax, (almost twice as much for the same bucks). I like the ProWeld/SameStuff best, more bang for the buck; in addition to styrene they work great with Kato and Atlas/Kato ABS shells and Plastruc's ABS structural shapes. I have also used them with Lexan and Plexiglass. I usually get a bottle or 2 through Micromark when I'm ordering stuff and I also have my LHS trained to keep it in stock. I think Micromark bypassed Ambroid and went straight to the industrial supplier (this stuff is used amoungst others, in the aquarium industry to glue the plexiglass) to get a cheaper price than they could get from Ambroid.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
The 'Same Stuff' from Micro-Mark is supposed to be the substitute for Ambroid's Pro Weld, not Tenax. (The 'Same Stuff label looks almost identical to the Pro Weld label.) It does very well. It is also stronger than Tenax because it will glue ABS as well as Styrene. The depth of the 'weld' seems to be slightly deeper in the plastic too. Tenax will only glue Styrene together. So, yes, it IS different.
I have moved on to using MEK because it is cheap to buy and it's available anywhere. I do have Tenax and have used it a lot before. I find the slower weld time of MEK to be both an advantage and disadvantage. MEK is very close to Pro Weld / Same Stuff as it will also glue ABS and other plastics
To apply it, I use a small paintbrush. Smaller than whats in the bottle.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
What's it the "same stuff" as, Tenax or the Plastruct cement? No, they are NOT the same. Being nearly out of Tenax, I decided to give the bottle of Palstruct I got a try. Well, so far, I am not liking this one bit. It takes longer to evaoprate (which might eb good in some situations), it is very prone to elaving glue marks compared to Tenax, and it is doing a nice number on the plastic of the microbrush I was using to apply it (like I do with Tenax). And the smell is overpowering, Tenax hardly has an odor.
So, is the Mico-Mark Same Stuff the same as Tenax, in which case, I will order some, it IS cheaper than Tenax, or is it the same as Plastruct Plastic Weld, in which case I will avoid it like the plague?
The far too large for small models brush attached to the cap is annoyign too, but a quick snip of the sprue cutter took care of that. I notice Same Stuff also has thaat.