Train Modeler gandydancer19: I have switched to using MEK as a plastic glue. It is a liquid. It will glue most plastics including ABS. I also use a small paint brush to control where it goes and how much is used. The brush that comes in the bottles of liquid plastic cement are worthless for trying to control how much glue you use and where it goes. I have used MEK as paint stripper for automotive, etc work. I was afraid to try it on plastic for fear it would melt too much. Have you tried it on small delicate parts? Richard
gandydancer19: I have switched to using MEK as a plastic glue. It is a liquid. It will glue most plastics including ABS. I also use a small paint brush to control where it goes and how much is used. The brush that comes in the bottles of liquid plastic cement are worthless for trying to control how much glue you use and where it goes.
I have switched to using MEK as a plastic glue. It is a liquid. It will glue most plastics including ABS.
I also use a small paint brush to control where it goes and how much is used. The brush that comes in the bottles of liquid plastic cement are worthless for trying to control how much glue you use and where it goes.
I have used MEK as paint stripper for automotive, etc work. I was afraid to try it on plastic for fear it would melt too much. Have you tried it on small delicate parts?
Richard
This is where the size of the brush you are going to use to apply it comes into play. The smaller the brush, the less glue you get.
The advantage of using MEK is that is is not as instant as the standard liquid plastic cement. It appears to soften the plastic more, and takes longer to cure. To me, that is and can be an advantage, particularly on larger parts.
I use a variety of different glues because they each have different properties and different uses. I use MEK the most, but I still have Tenax and Testors plastic cements for things that I think they will be better on.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Oh.
I thought they were like model car kit decals.
/facepalm
Decals aren't supposed to have glue on them. The only glue involved with decals is the special glue that holds and releases them from the paper. Microscale's Microsol and Walthers Solvaset enable decals to "stick" by "melting" the decal to the surface and make a molecular bond. They stick better to a painted or clear glossed surface as opposed to bare plastic.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Thanks. They're a little lighter than the photo shows, but I'm not going to get too bent out of shape over it. I'd definitely use a laser printer next time.
O'Ghoul Heres the result. II'm sure that if I played with more LED options, they'd glow more, but I'm satisfied with the end result.
Heres the result. II'm sure that if I played with more LED options, they'd glow more, but I'm satisfied with the end result.
That looks great! Congratulations!
gandydancer19 I have switched to using MEK as a plastic glue. It is a liquid. It will glue most plastics including ABS. I also use a small paint brush to control where it goes and how much is used. The brush that comes in the bottles of liquid plastic cement are worthless for trying to control how much glue you use and where it goes.
Well, my decals were bunk apparently. There was no adhesive to speak of, so I went the mailing label route. First, I cut a "lens" out of clear plastistruct. Then, I centered the number over it. I then covered it with glossy clear tape. I trimmed these to fit and delicately glued them in.
You might also want consider how to diffuse your LED's evenly on your number boards too. I would use Testors clear parts cement or Micro crystal clear as a glue.
Mark R. Keep in mind if you are using the Microscale numberboard decals, and are planning on using white numbers on a black ground, you won't be able to light them up. The light won't shine through the solid black background ! Mark.
Keep in mind if you are using the Microscale numberboard decals, and are planning on using white numbers on a black ground, you won't be able to light them up. The light won't shine through the solid black background !
Mark.
That's why MS makes clear numbers on black back ground.
As for glue, someone already mentioned Testors Canopy glue, a good alternative is Microscale's Kristal Klear, it's similar to the canopy glue but a little thicker. Both of these dry absolutely clear, they don't craze the "glass" and stay slightly flexible so the numberboard won't pop out.. You just spread a bead around the hole's edge and apply the numberboard. If you get too much on the "glass", you can wipe off the excess with a damp cotton swab or if it's dried you can peel everything off and start over. if I have to apply the decals from the outside, I will finish with a couple of coats of MS Kristal Klear, which gives the look of depth making it look like the decal was actually applied from the inside.
Keep in mind if you are using the Microscale numberboard decals, and are planning on using white numbers on a blackground, you won't be able to light them up. The light won't shine through the solid black background !
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I just checked my Plastruct catalog and there is a 1" x 1" clear square rod for example you could start with. Use two of them, paint in key areas with silver reflecting paint and you can possibly tie into existing LED. They will conduct light.
The LION prints them on a laser printer. Him uses label type paper so him can just stick them to the equipment. A very ind soul on SubChat sent me the font for the older subway cars of the sort that I am modeling. You can print as small as 2 point.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I use canopy glue for windows and things like number boards that I don't want solvents to craze.
Two more options in case what you've got planned doesn't work the way you'd like. One, Shellscale produces some nice numberboard decals in a variety of formats. I'm not sure whether they allow lighting, as they come as a black decal with white numbers or vice versa. However, using one half of their system permits some uses that a decal that integrates both numbers and background together doesn't allow.
The other is that you can print numberboards on transparencies in your laser printer and get good results. This allows for custom sizing and fonts that aren't available as a stock item.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I guess the fronts would be somewhat light-piped and the rears would be directly lit. Both front and rear headlights are LEDs.
When I've had to actually make the number boards I start with "how am I going to light them?" Because that effects use of light pipes, size of plastic stock, etc. Putting in thin plastic sheets may look strange when lighted behind by say focused LEDs. A low amp bulb with clear translucent film/tape around it would help the light source shining through. I think the last time I did this, I started with Plastruct clear plastic sheet stock. Then formed it into shape.
That's what I'm doing. I'm asking for advise on adheasives to glue the number boards in. I don't want to go through the trouble of building these, only to have my tube of Testors melt them when I go to install.
Im pretty sure I have the right decals, I just wanted to know if anyone had experience either making the lens/glass portion, or knows of one that is being sold by someone.
For all intents and purposes, these locos don't really have "number board glass", so I either need to make or find some. That's what I'm asking for help with.
In my opinion, this is where 'modeling' comes into play. Find a photo of a Geep that has some front number boards that you like and model them. It may mean making them yourself.
What about the physical board itself? These Geeps don't exactly have front ones to speak of.
Heres the technique I found, from another message board:
"
This is an example of how you can do it when you are using clear acetate for the window...as in a Cannon cab application. In this type of application, you apply see-thru number decals, such as on Microscale #87-205, to the INSIDE of the acetate. Then you paint any unwanted holes in the surrounding black area with black paint or extra decal material. When this is all dry, you apply a white background, such as on set 87-527, over the numbers.
I've just cut the decal numbers and placed them on the numberboard. But, with the white numbers on black background you have to be careful to get some close matching or even a little overlap to keep the light from shining through if you have to cut the individual numbers and make up the total number. Microsol/Microset help with laying down the overlap. For the end numbers I just cut the end side wide or cut out some black. Using a tooth pick helps a bunch since it's small enough to move the numbers but soft enough to not cut them. A dull Xacto blade can be helpful too.
The numberboard decals I've used normally are printed as white numbers on a black background, or black numbers on a white background. You just cut out the numbers you want and apply the decal to the numberboard on the model. Microscale also makes blank black and white numberboard decals that you can put in place, and then apply individual numbers over them.
I've sometimes sealed the decal in with gloss finish applied with a small brush to make it appear shiny like glazing over the numbers; I've never heard of anyone putting clear plastic over the numberboard decals.
I've ordered the Microscale lightable number board decals as well as the set to give the numbers their proper white background.
Any tips/instructions on installing? I'm not new to decals, just new to decals this small. I've got some clear plastic to install them on and as I understand it, the best way to do so is to affix the numbers behind the plastic, then the white background (since they're white numbers on black backgrounds).
What sort of glue should I use to affix them? Are there any templates out there to cut the plastic to the proper shapes, or better, pre-made lenses?
Im installing these in a pair of Walthers GP9Ms, since they don't have number boards to begin with. The fronts are lit (albeit sunken in), and the rears are molded into the shell.
Thanks!
Tim