Well done everyone, These pictures were taken last week and time to show off now......friend from Thailand.
MisterBeasley
Wiring the LEDs in series sounds very interesting! Can you explain how to calculate a resistor value? In my case for the HO vehicles I would have four LEDs (two warm white and two red).
This has great possibilities when it comes to lighting structures too!
Thanks for the idea.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Scarpia,
I really like that scene you modeled. That small bridge going over a small creek, It really looks good.
Jim
Work continues to "flow" on my fifth module. Note that the water effect is only acrylic gloss medium.
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
Some great photos as always here this weekend!
I haven't had anything new to show for a few weeks, and still have nothing spectacular. I have been plugging along laying track in the yard I am rebuilding.
The space shown in the photos is about 14 feet long and the entire yard is 22 feet long overall. I will have made 22 #6 Fast tracks turnouts for the yard area by the time I am finished.
73
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
GPaine,
Thank you so much.
I'm just glad to help since this product is helping us make passenger car modeling more enjoyable. I hope that when the new line hits the market that modelers will give it a go.
I have a lot on my plate, but I'm planning to make a demo step-by-step video within the next month or so that will be good enough to upload to YouTube and post the link on every forum I'm a member of.
The stumbler I now have is deciding which vid camera would be good for this. Some people have told me to just use a higher end "Droid" phone device while others suggest a Sony vid cam in the $300 range. I'll have to continue researching that.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
[quote user="AntonioFP45"]I'm one of the volunteer testers for Alclad, which is getting ready to introduce a metalizing line for passenger rail modelers.[/quote]
Tony, congratulations on getting recognizition from the manufacturing side of the hobby for all your research and hard work on painting "stainless steel" to look realistic!!
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
hon30critter As you can see the wiring coming out of the bottom of the car is a bit bulky. There is an individual resistor for each of the four LEDs.
As you can see the wiring coming out of the bottom of the car is a bit bulky. There is an individual resistor for each of the four LEDs.
A while back I put a total of 10 LEDs in a two-track Oregon Rail Supply signal bridge. Although my LEDs all came from the same Miniatronics package, they had different electrical characteristics and I couldn't get them all to light properly. Then, I rewired them in series, rather than in parallel, and everything worked. As a side benefit, it greatly simplified the wiring, reducing the number of wires and resistors. This might be the answer to your automobile light wiring, too. I used magnet wire, too, which is much thinner than most insulated wires, and more durable than the very light stuff we use for decoders.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hi everybody!
More vehicle lighting experiments:
Sorry - the picture is a bit blurry.
I used 0603 SMD LEDs in the headlights and tail lights. On this model made under the High Speed and Malibu names the headlights already have clear plastic lenses installed. All you have to do is glue the LEDs behind the headlight lenses. It takes some care to get the LED properly lined up with the lense. I use 5 minute epoxy because it allows time to position the LED, and I do it with the LED lit so I can see when it is properly lined up. DO NOT use CA - it will ruin the lense.
For the tail lights I drilled a small hole through the tail lights at a slight angle so the drill came out inside the car body. I used .020" fiberoptic cable to create a tail light lense and a receiver lense on the inside of the car. All I did to make the lenses was to hold the fiberoptic cable very close to a hot Weller 140 watt soldering iron. The cable will melt into a dome shape. I started with a piece of cable a few inches long and made the outside lense that sits in the tail light. I should mention that I flared the tail light hole out a bit with a tapered dremel bit to allow the lense to seat in closer to the fender. Once I had the outside lense made I cut the cable off about 5/16" long from the lense. I inserted the cable into the hole in the tail light and then used the soldering iron to melt the cable inside the car body so that it both formed a receiver lense for the light from the LED and pulled the cable up tight to the car body. The tail lights use a red LED but I still had to colour the outside lense with a red Sharpie so it looks red when the lights are off. One point to note is that the tail light LEDs are very bright. They look like the brake lights are on. If that effect is not desirable using a larger resistor would dim the brightness.
As you can see the wiring coming out of the bottom of the car is a bit bulky. There is an individual resistor for each of the four LEDs. That shouldn't be a problem because the wiring will go down through the layout surface. When painted black it should not show. I will install plugs on the wiring below the layout so that vehicles can be moved around the layout for variety. I am going to experiment a bit to see if I can reduce the size of the wiring bundle, i.e. two LEDs on one resistor etc. For now, this is where my electrical expertise (or lack thereof) is at.
Great pictures as always everyone!
Take care
I'm one of the volunteer testers for Alclad, which is getting ready to introduce a metalizing line for passenger rail modelers. Here's an example of two finishes. The Walthers Budd Baggage-dorm unit has a "good condition" finish (been on the road a few years but well taken care of).
The scrap Rivarossi shell on top of the Walthers car has a "new condition" finish (just out of the factory, on the road less than 3 years).
I'm excited as modelers will be more easily able to get realistic stainless steel finishes much faster than before with the new quick drying formulas.
I am in the process of building my new layout (this time around, it's HOn3...) and I couldn't resist running one of my new Blackstone's and cars and playing with trains for a while.
Bob
Curt: Turntable is looking good.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
All I can say is WOW everyone:
ollevon- First rate modeling as always.
DJ- Another week thhat your modeling looks like real life.
PC99- Very nice B&W Photo.
Garry- Very nice meeting of the loco's.
Terry- All I can say is AMAZING.
This is my extension project that is a work in progress.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/
Finally finished my coal loader for the mine tipple
here's a video of it loading a car
It takes about 2 1/2 min to load one car
and the loco has to pull the car forward
http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/TerryinTexas/?action=view¤t=coalloaderwithH-4.mp4
and here's a video of the cars dumping the live loads at the coaling tower
http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/TerryinTexas/?action=view¤t=coaldump.mp4
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Great start to the weekend! I've had this hotel "almost done" for at least a year. I finally got the interior finished and installed the sign on top. It's one of those Miller Engineering animated signs.
Ken
I hate Rust
Rick, thanks for starting WPF with nice looking freight cars; ... Sam, that is an outstanding city scene! .... DJ, Pennsy looks great today!; ... PC99, I like your switcher; .. JR, that is a nice looking B&O passenger train.
Here is are three trains. .... WB CZ with E7's; EB short passenger train with E8; and an ore train arriving at the steel mill with 2 SD's.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Excellent work on the cars and layout scenes. Here is a photo of a B&O passenger train on my still under construction layout. The locomotives are Bachmann Plus and the cars are blue box Athearn heavyweights.
John R.
Switching cars at Heinz Food Company.....
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
That's some excellent modeling, Sam, good job. DJ.
A meet on the bridge at Roaring Creek. DJ.
Nice work there Rick. I just completed this section of background on my new layout.
Sam
Finally got some more cars done this week, so I guess I will start off Weekend Photo Fun!
Eastern Car Works 2600CF Airslide Covered Hopper Kit, Added airline under side of car and lines from the Air Reservoir to the Triple Valve. Substituted A-Line Sill Steps for the Cast ones. Painted White and lettered with Herald King Decals.
Intermountain Railway Company 60' PS Fisher Body Car, Painted Black and ATSF Red and lettered with Oddballs Decals.
Athearn 86' Hi-Cube Boxcar, removed cast grabs and replaced with ladders to more replicate a Thrall Car. The AA had purchased cars from the GB&W that were manufactured by both Greenville and Thrall and were used from Ford via Ferry Service across Lake Michigan to the Ford Plant in Minneapolis. Per photographs had to cut the letters and apply individually so they would be in the proper place on the side of the car versus the diagram included with the Herald King decals. Added Details West Extended coupler pockets and A-Line Sill Steps.
Thanks for looking.
Rick J
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!