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making Walthers turnouts DCC compatible
making Walthers turnouts DCC compatible
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
making Walthers turnouts DCC compatible
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:38 PM
What is the best way to make Walthers and Shinohara turnouts DCC ready? I understand the points need to be electrically isolated as does the frog. The frog should be easy enough..just cut gaps in the rails, but what about the metal strips that join the points together? My turnouts are already installed on a 1/2 inch Homasote roadbed. HELP, Thanks.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:08 PM
Check out wiringfordcc.com
They have a detailed discussion on this point.
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Sperandeo
Member since
January 2001
From: US
1,300 posts
Posted by
Sperandeo
on Friday, January 25, 2002 1:05 PM
First of all, Walthers turnouts ARE "DCC compatible" right out of the box. You don't HAVE to do anything to change them. Come visit us at MODEL RAILROADER and I'll show you a large club layout built with Walthers turnouts and running on DCC.
One thing that gets people into trouble with DCC on these turnouts is having metal wheels that aren't correctly gauged, so that they can bridge between stock rails and open points and cause short circuits. The solution to that is to fix the wheels.
The other thing you hear people worrying about is the short circuit that occurs when they run into a turnout lined the wrong way. The answer for that is pretty obvious too. (Subtract 10 points from your score if you didn't guess "line the turnout before moving the train.")
That said, there some good reasons why you might want to change the wiring setup on Walthers turnouts. If the points are the same polarity as the stock rails, the open point doesn't have to be open so far, and that looks more realistic. And if the point is hard-wired to the stick rail there can't be any interruption of current because the point is dirty or isn't closing absolutely tightly. See Tony Capato's article, "Failsafe turnouts
So long,
Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
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edo1039
Member since
January 2002
From: Summerfield,Florida
269 posts
Posted by
edo1039
on Friday, January 25, 2002 2:08 PM
Sounds like the same advice BUD WESCOTT would have given as I once had a question many years ago regarding something and I to received the same info as you gave, you can find it in MR.Ed
Ed OKeefe Summerfield,Fl "Go New Haven"
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, January 25, 2002 3:25 PM
The late,great Linn H.Westcott is, at the very least, due sufficient respect to spell his name correctly. He answered thousands of questions, through many different avenues,[the Kalmbach magazines, his books, by mail, by phone, at shows,etc.] over his illustrious career.
Mike
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, January 26, 2002 12:54 PM
Jim, Andy and Mike: Thanks for your help. Jim that web site by Allan Gartner had a tremendous amount of information. And Andy and Mike, the next time I'm in the Milwaukee area, I would like to see the MR layout. At this point, I am eager to finish wiring the track, leaving all the turnouts intact without altering them. Thanks again. I'll continue checking thhis site for more info. Mike Sharp.
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ronsmith
Member since
May 2001
From: US
39 posts
Posted by
ronsmith
on Saturday, January 26, 2002 4:54 PM
Mike,
I pull the copper strip from the switch just as an extra measure. The main thing is to line the switch machine and points in middle of trunout before mounting, this will elimanate that momentary delay some people talk about when the switch is thrown. Insulate the frogs, power the frog from the number four wire on the tortis switch machine and you will have great operations.
Do check the wheel guage and we have found some switch points are not in guage either.
Great railroading.
Ron
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