Structure Painting

[Anonymous]

Although I AVOID PLASTIC kits if at all possible I would add one or two comments which makes the material easier to paint and detail.

Most important, WA***he parts with a mild soap and water solution. This removes any contamination which may be present from the manufacturing process. Paint doesn't adhere well otherwise.

Next spray with a neutral primer. If you are satisfied with the base color of the plastic you can use fine emory cloth to roughen the surface slightly as an alternative. 90% of the time priming is best.

Do paint the detail parts, including doors and windows, on the sprew if at all possible. All kits require some "dry fitting" so expect to have to do some touchup work if you paint the details first.

If you are using brushes rather than airbrushing (much preferable IMO) I suggest using acrylic tube paints thined with alcohol rather than model paints. Be sure to use high concentration alcohol with only 2-5% residual water. Get it from Home Depot or the like. If you decide to use water as your thining liquid, be sure to use DISTILLED WATER, not the liquid rocks from the tap or bottled water. Thin your colors to the opacity of washes. A little experience will tell you how much to thin the color out. Several thin applications will give more realistic results than a single heavy coat. Less IS ALWAYS better than more. If you have the feeling you haven't put on quite enough you are already finished. Put the structure aside for a day or two to rest and you will like the results better.

I have had good results with both India and sepia ink washes. I thin 10 drops alcohol to 1 drip ink. A wash made from the same color as the dirt on your layout can also be very effective. Same thining ratios apply to start.

Don't forget rust streaking, all structures made with metal or metal hardware eventually show rust streaking. Use the finest detail brush you can find for this work.

I prefer to glaze the windows during the final assembly process. If possible I glaze each pane individually. I think the "faciting" which results is preferable to slapping on a single sheet behind the muttons.

Finish with a LIGHT DUSTING of Dullcote.

Final thought, this thread has many good ideas on how to do your work but every modeler developes their individual approach and techniques. Doubtless you will develope your own individual twists and refinements. If it works for you go with it.

Randy

[davekelly]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tcf511

QUOTE: Originally posted by wjstix

If it's a brick building, I spray it primer gray inside and out (before assembly), then paint the brick side with a basic brick color. After that dries I use 3-4 different colors (brown, lt tuscan, dk tuscan, etc.) and paint individual bricks until about half to 2/3rds of the bricks are left in the original color and the rest are different colors.

I've read where liquid cement like Testor's doesn't work well on painted surfaces. Do you mask the edges before you paint or sand them after painting? I'm just starting on buildings and painting the inside after partially assembling them is certainly a pain.

I just use a number 11 blade to scrape the paint off where the cement will go. Because it is a solvent, putting cement where there is paint will oftentimes "melt" the paint and make a big mess. While it sounds like a pain, it only takes a couple of seconds and it is a lot faster than masking it would be.

[tcf511]

Fergie,

I always thought that the spurt part of xspurt was for a drip under pressure. [:D]

[Fergmiester]

MR has done some excellent articles this pas year and a bit on painting structures. Well worth reading.

Saying that I use tole paints (latex) and use a combination of lichen grey, tan, sandstane and india ink diluted with 80% water. This I find works well to make mortar and dull the plastic. before applying the "mix" spray paint the plastic with a lustre finish as this will allow the paint to "bite" and take hold.

Fergie

[tcf511]

QUOTE: Originally posted by wjstix

If it's a brick building, I spray it primer gray inside and out (before assembly), then paint the brick side with a basic brick color. After that dries I use 3-4 different colors (brown, lt tuscan, dk tuscan, etc.) and paint individual bricks until about half to 2/3rds of the bricks are left in the original color and the rest are different colors.

I've read where liquid cement like Testor's doesn't work well on painted surfaces. Do you mask the edges before you paint or sand them after painting? I'm just starting on buildings and painting the inside after partially assembling them is certainly a pain.

[wjstix]

If you are going to light the building, you need to paint it or it will glow like a Christmas tree lightbulb!!

Spraying is great for a building, very time consuming if it's a large one to brush paint it and the results will never be as good. Your local hobby shop has Tamiya spray cans, they are very good quality and easy to get a good result with. If it's a brick building, I spray it primer gray inside and out (before assembly), then paint the brick side with a basic brick color. After that dries I use 3-4 different colors (brown, lt tuscan, dk tuscan, etc.) and paint individual bricks until about half to 2/3rds of the bricks are left in the original color and the rest are different colors.

BTW for weathering I use powdered charcoal from an art supply store - easier to get a good result than the alcohol/india ink method, plus it can be washed off !! Once I have the weathering painting etc. all right, I spray the building with dullcote to seal everything in, then assemble it.

[SpaceMouse]

Spray painting a building IMHO is like using a bulldozer for landscaping. If you are looking for a dirt parking lot, use a bulldozer. If you are looking for a base coat or a monotone structure, use spray paint.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

Hi David,
If you shop around, you can get cans of spray paint for only $3.00-5.00 per can and they go a long way and save a lot of time. I especially like the flat finish with those primers I mentioned.

[#ditto]The Wally World in my area has some spray cans as cheap as $1.00![:D]

[Rotorranch]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ?
Finally do I leave the glass shinny, or does it get dulled along with the structure. Thank You for your help.
David Willard Jr.

Originally posted by tutaenui
Glass should be left gloss finish.

That would depend on your preferences for the structure. For residential or businesses, I leave the window glass unpainted. For some industrial applications, I will dullcoat the window glazing. My reasoning is the industries probably won't have the window cleaner guy come out and do the windows like a business would, so by dullcoating the glass, it gives a dirty, hazy looking finish.

Rotor

[dgwinup]

I haven't used Krylon's new water-based spray paint yet, but I understand it is pretty good stuff. At least it won't craze the plastic. Will buy some when ready to start another project.

Have used Testor's spray paints. Haven't had a problem with crazing, but I only use the gray primer, flat black and gloss white paints. These are my base colors. I paint over these with a variety of paints, i.e. Floquil, Polly S, Ceramacoat, even tube acrylics, depending on the effect I want. Dullcoat kills the gloss if needed.

I have saved some of the blister pack 'bubbles' that so much stuff is packaged in nowadays. It makes pretty good window glazing (nice shiny, reflective surface) and the price can't be beat. Haven't tried to 'frost' any yet to get dull windows.

I don't use India ink because I've had a lot of success with the acrylic stuff in tubesand the Ceramacoat paints. Thin it out with water or alcohol. A little goes a long way. Just start with REALLY thin washes, 'cuz you can always ADD more.

Darrell, being quiet...for now

[davekelly]

For indutrial buildings I like using "Weathered Black" for the window frames. A also use clear styrene sheet instead of the supplied window pieces, it seems to make it a little more realistic.

[Rotorranch]

You might want to be careful using the Krylon paints. Most of the Krylon is laquer based, and it will sometimes craze the plastic. I've been using the cheapest spray paints I can find, making sure they state "enamel" on the label. Plastikote has worked well for me.

Rotor

[SpaceMouse]

Even if the color is close to what I want, I paint it. Plastic will look like plastic even with Dull Cote. I try to look around at buildings in my area and see how things weather. Even if the the building is new, there will be signs of water stains, dirt splahing up along the bottom, etc. I use mostly thinned artist acrylics. The dirt is pastels.

Here's a cheap plastic engine house.



I took the weather patterns from looking at the oxidation of paint on the roof of my car.
Here's what it looks like in place in a corner of my club layout.


The engine house below is a $7 kit I got off eBay.



This is a cardboard kit: I put that in there to show the spash of dirt, the same color as the ground you are modeling.

[Anonymous]

I have tried the india ink wash, but have yet to master the right formula, I get the runs right off effect with out it actually staying on the building, or car for that matter, or I get the spotting effect. I read you want to avoid dish washing soap, so what would I use to break down the mix better, also what ratio is best? As for painting, does it matter what type of paint, ie, Polly scale vs Floquil when it comes to the inks?

[Anonymous]

I'll heartily second Mondo's use of spray primers (the cheaper the better) for buildings. Even Bar Mills recommends that as primer for their high quality buildings.

I try to keep a variety of shades on hand so they don't all look alike.

One thing I suggest doing is to actually go out and look at buildings in your town and note the many colors and variations. Notice how different architectural features (cornices, windows, etc) are highlighted or painted differently from the primary color. Then do the same, using Ceramcoat.

RE: India Ink. There are so many ways of using it, it's hard to narrow it down. I often use a weak wash on an entire building just to tone down the colors. I prefer subtle shading and colors.

Or you can use it to mimic weathering from water run-off around windows and eaves. Buy a cheap building and experiment.

One use that I don't see mentioned often is on figures. A light wash on those Preiser, etc people will do wonders for bringing out the details and features.

Mike Tennent

[AntonioFP45]

Have read several times that excellent weathering and highlighting on structures can be achieved with "India Ink". There have been several articles in MRR magazine in the past decade.

Some of you on this forum have experiemented with it or a similar ink. Please, post your comments. I'm taking notes as well.

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by barbwyr

I am assembling my first plastic structures for my layout, but I had to let my trains sit for almost 2 years and as a result have lost all of my online references for painting and detailing structures. Can anyone send me a few good online resource or try to answer a few questions.
I am wondering what paints I should use and how best are they applied. Also, if the plastics is prepainted or molded in a color that I am happy with, should I use dull coat to flatten the finish or should I stioll paint them. Finally do I leave the glass shinny, or does it get dulled along with the structure. Thank You for your help.
David Willard Jr.
[e-mail]

Here are a couple Yahoo Group sites which might also be of interest to you and be able to answer your questions. Don't forget to check out the Files, Photos, and Links sections for additional info and TIPS.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Model_RR_Structures/?yguid=154581698

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PAINTINGMODELTRAINSANDBUILDING/?yguid=154581698

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCENERY_AND_STRUCTURES/?yguid=154581698

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ModelAirbrush/?yguid=154581698

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/weathering/?yguid=154581698

Hope these help...

[Anonymous]

Thank you for the great advise. I have friends already on me about putting some paint to my benchwork and plaster, so I guess I'll be doing some shopping this weekend.
Any other tips are more than welcome.
David

[mondotrains]

Hi David,
The advice given so far is great. I would like to add additional information from my experience. I also use a brush and some of the paints mentioned above. I'm always looking for an inexpensive way to do things so I use Ceramcoat acrylic paints additionally which you can get at Michael's craft store and other craft stores. A 2 ounce bottle is usually available on sale for 89 cents; much cheaper than the railroad paints.

For large structures like the Walther's Cornerstone series, especially the ones with brick walls, I SPRAY the walls with Krylon or various other spray paints in a can. What I use is the Primers....and most spray paint manufacturers have a brick red that works well. The primers dry with a super flat finish which looks very real. I also will spray paint the windows, while they are on the sprues, again with spray paint in a can. I've used dark hunter green, grey, and flat white. Be sure to paint all the walls and windows before you assemble the kit.

If you shop around, you can get cans of spray paint for only $3.00-5.00 per can and they go a long way and save a lot of time. I especially like the flat finish with those primers I mentioned.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

[tstage]

David,

Welcome to the hobby! [:)] I agree everything that tutaenui has said so far. I would add that Floquil is also a good product.

Make sure that you have a good set of brushes (i.e. a variety of small to larger ones) for both your solvent-based paints AND your water-based paints. And be sure to keep them separate from one another. Have plenty of paint thinner or alcohol nearby to keep your solvent-based brushes clean. (And, DON't get those mixed up when you are cleaning either.)

A good brush (i.e. natural hair - AVOID plastic bristles! [:(]) is worth it's weight in gold and makes for a nicer paint job. Let us know how your first paint job comes out! [:D]

Tom

[tutaenui]

I just use Polly s or Badger paints applied with a brush. Secret to a good finish with a brush is not to apply the paint to thickly. Unpainted plastic can be finished matt or semi matt, but is probably better painted just because the paint finish is more subtle and adds depth to the colour.. Glass should be left gloss finish.

[Anonymous]

I am assembling my first plastic structures for my layout, but I had to let my trains sit for almost 2 years and as a result have lost all of my online references for painting and detailing structures. Can anyone send me a few good online resource or try to answer a few questions.
I am wondering what paints I should use and how best are they applied. Also, if the plastics is prepainted or molded in a color that I am happy with, should I use dull coat to flatten the finish or should I stioll paint them. Finally do I leave the glass shinny, or does it get dulled along with the structure. Thank You for your help.
David Willard Jr.
[e-mail]