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How to paint window frams

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  • Member since
    August 2003
  • 93 posts
How to paint window frams
Posted by Robert Langford on Thursday, August 19, 2004 6:22 PM
I am getting ready to assemble a New River Mining Co. kit from Walthers. It has about 30 windows molded in clear plastic. How can I paint the window frames without getting paint on the windows? Any help will greatly be appreciated, as I need to get it built, I have 18 Tichey ore cars assembled, and no way to fill them.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Bob Langford sego65lilly@msn.com
  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
  • 2,479 posts
Posted by der5997 on Thursday, August 19, 2004 7:49 PM
Bob: Sorry, I'm not familiar with this kit. Are you saying that the window frames are not molded on the wall part of the kit, but are on the clear window material? How you are going to paint them depends a lot on where they actually are. If they really are molded on the clear material, they must be raised a bit from the window panes. I think in that case your best approach will be to get a liquid masking material and carefully paint over the panes with the mask (Micro Mask is a brand that is swimming slowly from memory) When that's dry, paint the frames with a fine brush. Then remove the masking material according to the manufacturer's instructions.

I've not run across any kit that has the frames molded onto the clear window material, but there's always a first time!

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

  • Member since
    June 2001
  • From: Holly, MI
  • 1,269 posts
Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Friday, August 20, 2004 7:31 AM
Something I tried and it worked pretty good. Assuming black frames, get an inexpensive stamp pad. Wrap a piece of double sided tape around your finger, stick one of the windows on the tape and lightly touch it to the stamp pad. Since the frame is raised (assuming you're doing the correct side) only the frame gets the color. Worked real well for me.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: US
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Posted by bcammack on Friday, August 20, 2004 8:10 AM
Hmm... If not black frames, you could probably dampen a piece of felt with the desired color of paint and do the same thing. Good idea!
Regards, Brett C. Cammack Holly Hill, FL
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Friday, August 20, 2004 8:11 AM
I used a black fineline Sharpie to paint my New River Mine window frames. Worked great. I also cut out about 1/3 of the windows and added them to the kit as open windows. It makes a huge difference in the appearance of the kit.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 8:12 AM
Robert ; If you can't remove the windows, your going to lose a lot of time and patience.
Removing them now , then painting , and then replacing them , even if you have to buy new sheets of clear acetate is your easiest / fastest ,solution.
  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: El Dorado Springs, MO
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Posted by n2mopac on Friday, August 20, 2004 10:29 AM
I always paint myy frames the old fashioned way, with a 000 brush. It is tedious and time consuming, but I have yet to find another process that looks as good.
Ron

Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado. 

Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy

Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Reedsburg WI (near Wisconsin Dells)
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Posted by Noah Hofrichter on Friday, August 20, 2004 12:35 PM
I've found an easier solution than a paint brush for detail parts. I don't have a steady hand, so a paint brush was out of the question, because I [ush down slightly on it, splitting the form of the brush and getting paint where I don't want it. I use flat toothpicks carved to a point on one end, and loaded wiht a dot of paint. Works for me, and it's much easier and cheaper than a brush(i.e. 500 toothpicks for the same price as a 000 brush)

Noah
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Metro East St. Louis
  • 5,743 posts
Posted by simon1966 on Friday, August 20, 2004 12:49 PM
I just made this model last month. The windows are clear plastic with moulded on frames. I used the black sharpie method. A medium tip with a careful hand and you can just color the raised frames. If I got unsteady and got some back on the surface of the window, I just colored the whole pane back as if it were a window that had been broken and filled with a black board. Once the windows are done, you can install them after the rest of the structure is painted.

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

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  • From: US
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Posted by darth9x9 on Saturday, August 21, 2004 11:04 AM
Hey guys, the sharpie method and the pad printing method will be on my list of things to try in the future. Thanks!

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
NCE DCC Master
Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

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