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deadspots in turnouts
deadspots in turnouts
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, February 17, 2002 10:21 AM
I found that the pointsof the turnout were not contacting the rails properly, causing the dead spot. I very slightly bent the points with needlenose pliers to assure an earlier and more postive contact with the rail...I looked at Peco turnouts and they don't honestly seem to be a better turnout...just different. :)
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, February 16, 2002 3:28 PM
Been there and had it happen too. My problem seems to be caused by the painting of the rails/switch. Unpainted turnout are working just fine but the painted ones have the stalling at low speed problem. I'm leaning towards the jummper solution if I can't get a screw in the rivet hole to solve the problem. Planning to use a better quality turnout next time.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, January 21, 2002 3:59 PM
Odly enough, I have only had that problem when the wheels were slightly out of gage on the locomotive. I use the Atlas product and like them but the formentioned problem has happened to me so check the gage. That may do the trick.
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snowey
Member since
February 2001
From: US
506 posts
Posted by
snowey
on Monday, January 21, 2002 3:37 PM
I'm pretty sure they still do make them. Check their web site (WWW.ATLASRR.COM)
"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, January 21, 2002 1:31 PM
Just as Vic said, I haven't used the Atals turnouts for a while, but I seem to rember back in the mid-1980's that Atals had a relay accessory that powered the frogs. It cost about $3.50 back then and took about 20 minuted to install and wire up. After I installed the kit I had no problems. I don't know whether Atlas still makes these or wheter it works for DCC if you are a DCC user. But I'd look into the Atals solution.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, January 19, 2002 10:27 AM
Haven't used Atlas Customlines in years but I seem to recall that they were not a power routed turnout. In other words both sides of the turnout are engergized all the time and that the position of the points did not determine which leg the power was routed to. The frog was insulated to avoid any short circuit. The point rails were energized by a jumper strip embedded in the platic ties. Tightening the rivets may help but be gentle in doing so as you can get them too tight and the turnout won't throw or the point rails will be thrown out of guage. Atlas may have changed the design of the turnouts over the years so what I have said may no longer be true. Another thing to consider is weather or not the frog is receiving power. I seem to recall that the early Customlines had a plastic frog, but later versions had a metal frog with a provision for adding jumpers to it to maintain contact. Make a continuity tester by taking a 12V light bulb and adding some 12" leads to it with alligator clips attached. Connect one lead to the positive rail at the point end of the turnout. Turn on the power and "pick and poke" around on the opposite rails of the turn out,both ahead of and behing the frog. You'll find exactly where the problem is where the bulb fails to light. Lastly consider the wheelbase of the loco that is stalling. It may be that it is not short enough for the loco to make it over a non-powered frog without losing contact to the pickup wheels...this is especially true with locos that have only one set of pickup wheels.....Vic
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
deadspots in turnouts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, January 19, 2002 7:51 AM
I'm using Atlas Customline #6 turnouts. If I power a locomotive throught the turnout at reasonable speeds it is fine, but at slow speeds the loco stalls...obvious dead spot in the short section of movable rails. What should I do to correct this? Are the rivets not tight enough or do I need to solder jumper wires? Thanks
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