Roads

[CBQ_Guy]

I haven't tried this technique on a road per se, but on the old layout it worked quite well for simulating a paved parking lot in the area of a TOFC ramp.

Somewhere I had acquired a bag of grey, Z-scale ballast. I mixed it with white glue to an almost spackle consistency, and carefully spread it on the area using a putty knife. I don't remember now, but I don't even think it needed sanding, but as I said I carefully spread it on.

Then I spray painted it flat black with a 99 cent can of Wal-Mart spray paint. I took a drill bit and made a slight depression by hand for a manhole cover detail part I had previously picked up at a train show/swap meet in the areal. I took a black permanent marker and drew in a couple cracks and imperfections. Then I weathered it all using chalk and very dilute, earth colored washes. I think it turned out GREAT to the point where I am planning to use it again in the future on the new layout.

[der5997]

I'm trying foam core as an experiment. I thought that the height would enable me to model drainage ditches more easily. I've yet to carve the sides, so right now it's a bit crude. The smooth paper of the foam core will I think look great painted faded asphalt grey in N.

[darth9x9]

Woodland Scenics makes a road kit that works pretty well. It is a variant of hydrocal and has foam tape to act as a barrier. You pull a squeegie like device down the road with the edges of the squeegie riding on the foam. Then you can paint it to suit.

One of of my modules, I used the system but I kicked it up a notch as the road I built was banked and twisted.

I made a form:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/31%20Preparing%20for%20road.jpg

I filled the road area with hydrocal:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/32%20Road%20poured.jpg

The opposite side of abutment:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/33%20Back%20side%20of%20bridge%20abutment%20after%20road%20pour.jpg

The right shoulder poured:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/36%20Right%20side%20of%20road%20shoulder%20poured.jpg

The left shoulder poured:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/37%20Left%20side%20of%20road%20shoulder%20poured.jpg

The road and shoulder painted:
http://www.fcsme.org/bcarl/ylpics/38%20Road%20painted%20and%20shoulder%20painted%20brown.jpg

I hope this gives you some ideas.

[Roadtrp]

I've used fine cinders ballast for asphalt parking lots, but not for roads.

For parking lots (or driveways) I think it works pretty well. I roll out the cinders with a heavy metal cylinder while the glue is still wet to provide a very even surface. It may not be good enough for roads, but it certainly seems to match what I've seen in asphalt driveways and parking lots.

[jfugate]

Hear, hear!

Styrene for model roads works well!



See: http://siskiyou.railfan.net/model_rod.html for construction details.

[willy6]

i used .030" Evergreen Styrene sheets for my roads. i painted my concrete roads Gull Gray and used charcoal to dull the road centers. and flat black for asphalt roads and parking lots. on the concrete road i painted flat black on the joints to simulate "tar" thst seeps through on hot summer days especially here in the south.then i used yellow and white pin sripe for the lines as needed. and using the styrene made it easier for grade crossings.

[orsonroy]

Asphalt roads aren't that bumpy. If you want to use WS fine cinders, I'd suggest sanding it afetr it's dried to get a smoother (and more realistic) surface. Remember, asphalt roads aren't black for long, so the grayish color you'll end up with after sanding will look more realistic.

For asphalt roads, I prefer joint compound.

[Anonymous]

My lastest method for simulating paved roads is to simply cover the road surface with a even layer of Woodland Scenics fine cinders ballast. Has anyone else tried this? What do y'all think of this idea? Is it worth my time and effort? Thanks.