I want to get some Marklin steam running on my layout, but as I look at some of the products available I have come to the conclusion that I have some probably very basic questions before I get started.
Is there a website or post I am missing that may cover this?
Strezzy
Marklin HO uses a 3-rail AC electrical system. It is not compatible with DC or DCC.
From Reynaulds Euro Imports website.
http://www.reynaulds.com/
"Many other fine European manufactures produce models that will run on conventional Marklin AC or Marklin AC digital systems. Roco, Fleischmann, Brawa and others all produce Marklin AC compatible models. The best thing about these models is they all come equipped with a universal AC decoder that can be run with a conventional Marklin transformer or any Marklin digital system. As for couplers all the manufactures use the same Marklin type coupler except for Fleischmann. Fleischmann however sells Marklin loop couplers so you can easily just install them as well. As for rolling stock you can use any rolling stock from any manufacture and run it together with Marklin. Adding other compatible models to your Marklin fleet is a gives you much greater variety, and makes model railroading a life long enjoyable hobby. "
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The Marklin digital system is reviewed in thee December 2004 Model Railroader and a review of their digital "Central Station" in the April 2006 issue.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Trix is the 2 rail DC version of Marklin, you might be better off starting there. If you Google the conversion of 3 rail Marklin locos to 2 rail you will find that there are brave souls that attempt it, but it is not for the faint of heart as you have to modify all the wheel sets amongst other things.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
If you put anything labeled Marklin on on DC tracks it will short things out as the wheels are not insulated. You can change out the wheelsets on rolling stock for insulated ones. The Trix line is made by Marklin as their DC line but, at least in the olden days, it wasn't as complete as the AC Marklin line. \
Werner
Speaking as someone who has spent considerable time modifying Marklin gear to run on Two rail and vice versa, I can say that you are better off doing something else with your time. There are several reasons why this is not worth the time. Most have been mentioned already in this thread.
One little known problem is the NEM standard (European HO scale track standards) is slightly different than RP 25 (different flange widths and slightly narrower wheelsets). These standards will bite you in the switches etc even if you can solve all of the other problems with conversion. To deal with the problem you end up re-gauging wheelsets and drivers on locos....Life is awfully short...
Try the Marklin Trix line (Big Boys, F7s and NY???) locos along with a variety of reefers, boxcars etc....Marklin also made a HAMO line that predates Trix that was designed for the US two rail market.
Time for a photo. My old layout ran US two rail boxcars, etc pulled Marklin locos. This was a very finicky set-up and was as close as I came to integrating the systems. Notice the Markiln 3 rail (Swiss prototype) crocodile in weeds with Intermountain reefers rolling by behind it.:
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
If you're trying to run European steamers on 2-rail DC or DCC, then consider Roco or Fleischman as they are compatible with our NMRA DCC systems and/or staight DC and they are of equal quality.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I have liked the look of the Swiss "Crocodile" locomotives and have even imagined what it would look like "Americanized". The big change I think would be to redo the end beams, mount American style couplers and attach headlights and a bell!
David
I converted around 20 of my old Märklin locos to 2-rail DC. Insulating the wheelsets and turning down the flanges to approximately RP-25 was indeed a lot of work, but they were old friends from the 50s and 60s and still ran well.
Re-gauging is no big deal after all that, but with steam locos there are some nasty surprises: big locos with the articulated frame (e.g. BR44) cannot be converted because of polarity problems--the geared wheels (which you can't insulate) swap sides at the hinge. And t when you widen the gauge to RP-25, the hex nuts on the leading wheelset start to foul the valve gear when the loco goes around curves, even wide radius (24 inch and more). The clearances were designed for Märklin's narrower gauge (not NEM).
This problem occurs also with modern Hornby locos like the Bulleid Pacifics and with NEM-standard locos from Roco and Jouef (e.g. 141P), which are otherwise pretty easy to re-gauge. Washers on those axles can cure the problem. (Fleischmann uses deeper flanges and less-than-NEM gauge, rather like Märklin.) You can't count on European DC equipment to be trouble-free on American Code 83 track without checking gauge and flange depth.
I have converted my European locos and cars to Kadee couplers, which is also pretty time-consuming if they don't have the NEM coupler pockets.
All the same, I don't regret any of the work, and am now busy converting them to DCC.
Severian - Welcome to trains.com!
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
My Blog
Severian,
Great post! I learned a lot. Hats off to you! Thanks for the clarification on NEM and Marklin standards...
Marklin "HAMO" brand is made for 2 rail DC. This is now replaced with Trix.
I have mostly Roco, Liliput and Fleischmann for 2 rail DC.
Bob