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Paint removal-Kato loco

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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Paint removal-Kato loco
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 3:43 PM
I recently purchased a Kato SD-40 which is painted for a road that I do not model. I am planning on stripping the paint and repainting. I have heard that Kato uses a Japanese brand of paint that may use a different solvent. Does anybody have experience stripping the paint from a Kato product? If so, what is the best approach, solvent, etc.?
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 17, 2002 4:00 AM
I'm not a stripper, but heard from other modelers
positive remarks about Scalecoat paint stripper for plastic models.
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: Niue
  • 735 posts
Posted by thirdrail1 on Thursday, January 17, 2002 9:26 AM
Kato uses a different plastic from other manufacturers and amost everything normally used to strip paint will damage Kato shells. If you MUST strip it, probably the best way is with an airgun and very fine abrasive. I have used very fine sandpaper (600 grit) to remove numbers and lettering and just painted over the old colors.
"The public be ***ed, it's the Pennsylvania Railroad I'm competing with." - W.K.Vanderbilt
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 17, 2002 11:43 AM
Jim, try calling Kato, Schaumburg Illinois,Central time, they close for lunch. 1-800-545-4899
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 20, 2002 8:39 PM
I was told by a friend that you can safely remove the paint from a kato shell using Lestoil but you have to soak it real long,like all day.I never tried this but I did remove the number off a SP Dash 9 using the scalecoat remover and a cotton swab. Apply the remover for just a few seconds until the lettering works loose then rinse it with water right away.If you soak the Kato shell in scalecoat until the paint is totally removed the shell becomes very brittle and will crack.I believe this happens because the paint remover acts as a degreaser and it removes the oil from the plastic causing it to become brittle.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 21, 2002 9:19 AM
Jim, I ran into this when re-painting a Kato loco for a friend. I think thier shells/bodies must be made from some exotic platic and they use a paint that really grabs onto it. Here's what I did:
Using K&S 1200 Grit Sanding Film ( available from MicroMark) remove as much lettering as you can. Then wa***he body/shell in a mild dish detergrent to remove any oils. Be sure to rinse it several times. Allow the shell to air dry for at least a day. Airbrush on several light coats of Poly-Scale light grey as a primer and allow that to dry really hard ( at least a day).Then using Poly-Scale Paint airbru***he the body/shell in the color(s) desired. Poly-Scale paint is really opaque and will cover up any remaining orginal color without the loss of any detail as it dries to a really thin hard finish. After this has dried for at least a day airbrush on a coat of Poly-Scale gloss and let it dry good and you are ready to decal the loco. For a final finish after decaling I like to use Poly-Scale flat or semi-gloss. Vic
  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Summerfield,Florida
  • 269 posts
Posted by edo1039 on Monday, January 21, 2002 12:50 PM
I have used an inexpensive means to remove paint from plastic models (not a Kato Product) with great results. Brake fluid.Be sure to wash with soap and water and rinse well and let dry.You can use a soft bru***o remove any paint while it still has fluid on it.Ed
Ed OKeefe Summerfield,Fl "Go New Haven"
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 25, 2002 12:35 PM
I checked out Kato's website and they have a response to this point in their frequently asked questions. They basically punt on what works because they are worried that whatever they recommend may destroy the plastic. Their big recommendation is to buy an undecorated shell from them. Thanks everyone for your responses.
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    April 2003
  • 302,230 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 27, 2002 7:34 PM
I use a method that I found in the July 1997 Model Railroader. I put Pine-Sol in a container large enought to submerge the shell. The article says not to let the shell soak for longer than 6 hours, but I have never had to wait that long.

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